MeatMan Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 21 hours ago, stitchdup said: yeah but i only get one print out of them before it needs done again and it might not work for the whole file if its a body or over 1500 slices. The print in the pic was a freshly formatted stick. I have printed a lot of bodies so thats 3 or 4 thousand uses each time so they get well used. I'm on my second and third sticks for each printer now. I only use them for the printers and they only get used on one computer too but i dont think that makes a difference. That explains things! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 23 hours ago, Kenmojr said: I found this 3D printable file for a 1953 Hudson Jet 4 Door for $10.00 on sales (regular price is $20.00) at CG Trader. I did not download it but thought someone here maybe looking for this car. https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/automotive/hudson-jet-4-door-1953 Cheers Ken I'm a fan of Andrey's files, and while some of them aren't "quite correct", they do print VERY nice as I've never had an issue with anything of his I've printed. Interesting little back story about the Hudson-----I was talking back and forth with an eBay seller as he has that print up for auction, and he made some extras to go with it that weren't part of the original files. He tells me that both the two and four door Jets were special requests of his, as Andrey will do them if he has the time. He said it took about three months for them to show up, so he must be super busy now as it used to only take him a couple weeks to get a particular request done. I told him that if Andrey really want's to knock the socks off a bunch of print guys, he could take his '53 Studebaker file and turn it into a 1957-'58 Golden Hawk. I can betcha that file would sell like CRAZY. He said he'd mention it, and while the file wouldn't necessarily be for me as I have files of that car, it would really tickle the fancy for those that are not familiar with turning base .obj files into printable .stl files. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenmojr Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 According to this youtube channel here are the recommended 3D printers for model cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stitchdup Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 my sd cards and readers experiment didn't work. the printers would or could not read the sd cards. I have a friend visiting later with different readers just to check it isn't the problem but for now its a fail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeatMan Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 Les On 2/17/2024 at 9:10 AM, stitchdup said: my sd cards and readers experiment didn't work. the printers would or could not read the sd cards. I have a friend visiting later with different readers just to check it isn't the problem but for now its a fail Les, do you slice your files directly to the usb, or do you save them on your computer and then copy them? I usually save mine to the computer and then copy them in case the usb fails but also I notice it takes a lot less activity on the usb to copy than to slice it to the usb. Maybe nothing, but also may be worth trying if you're not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeatMan Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 For those of you printing wheels; How do you print them, flat or tilted vertical? I print mine tilted vertical and they tend not to be round and I need to print a set. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stitchdup Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 9 minutes ago, MeatMan said: Les Les, do you slice your files directly to the usb, or do you save them on your computer and then copy them? I usually save mine to the computer and then copy them in case the usb fails but also I notice it takes a lot less activity on the usb to copy than to slice it to the usb. Maybe nothing, but also may be worth trying if you're not. I've been slicing them straight from lychee to the stick. I'll try it your way and see if the sticks last any longer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stitchdup Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 8 minutes ago, MeatMan said: For those of you printing wheels; How do you print them, flat or tilted vertical? I print mine tilted vertical and they tend not to be round and I need to print a set. Thanks. I find it depends on the wheels. for wire wheels and bbs style rims i find they print better flat and theres way less chance of the spokes breaking when you remove them. when wheels with spokes are at any angle the supports tend to be on the spokes but when they are flat it seems to ignnore them. Most other styles i have upright but angled back between 30 and 45 degrees. if the wheels are fairly thick walled they go nearer 30 but the thinner the wall the more angle i put on them but never over 45. Having said that i printed out a few of the slowlysmodels bomb wheel sets which are thick walled but i printed them flat and everyone of them turned out great. blackbox wheels i print at 45 every time with decent success. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeatMan Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 38 minutes ago, stitchdup said: I find it depends on the wheels. for wire wheels and bbs style rims i find they print better flat and theres way less chance of the spokes breaking when you remove them. when wheels with spokes are at any angle the supports tend to be on the spokes but when they are flat it seems to ignnore them. Most other styles i have upright but angled back between 30 and 45 degrees. if the wheels are fairly thick walled they go nearer 30 but the thinner the wall the more angle i put on them but never over 45. Having said that i printed out a few of the slowlysmodels bomb wheel sets which are thick walled but i printed them flat and everyone of them turned out great. blackbox wheels i print at 45 every time with decent success. Thanks Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattilacken Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 4 hours ago, MeatMan said: For those of you printing wheels; How do you print them, flat or tilted vertical? I print mine tilted vertical and they tend not to be round and I need to print a set. Thanks. I say as Les, but most i have printed have been working great with around 30-40 deg. I tend to have no issues as long as the bottom edge is propper supported and if the spokes are thin i only support them close to the center. as well as the pin is supported, so far all but the first sets have been almost perfect. An other question, large flat parts, how do you support them so they dont warp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael jones Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 14 hours ago, MeatMan said: For those of you printing wheels; How do you print them, flat or tilted vertical? I print mine tilted vertical and they tend not to be round and I need to print a set. Thanks. I print "regular" spoked wheels flat to the build plate on supports. That has worked great so far. I'm sure they can be printed at any angle with the correct amount of supports regardless but would take longer. For wire wheels like the Maserati birdcage wire wheels, I printed them vertical, 90 degrees to the build plate on supports. This is to stop the "wires" buckling during the print which did happen when I tried to print them flat. I learned from some other peoples experience on facebook. I'm still new to the 3d printing game, but these ways have worked well for me. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stitchdup Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 I have the little printer rnning today and it has made some concerning noises. From reading i learned it is apparently caused by the print plate not being zeroed correctly but resetting it made no difference. Iturned out to be a minute piece of exposed resin on the edge of the print plate stopping it going fully down. I dont know how it got there as it was newly replaced fep on the tank bottom but i had missed out treating it with rain-x. a good clean and wipe down with rain x and its silent again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamsuperdan Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 On 2/20/2024 at 9:37 AM, MeatMan said: For those of you printing wheels; How do you print them, flat or tilted vertical? I print mine tilted vertical and they tend not to be round and I need to print a set. Thanks. Personally, I tilt the wheels at 22 degrees. I just find it works great, with practically no layer lines. Flat or 45 degrees, I get visibly layer lines. For tires, I just print them flat, and have never seen any issues. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtx6970 Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 Anyone whom does 3D print work. Interested in a project for me ? if so pm me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeatMan Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 On 2/20/2024 at 12:00 PM, stitchdup said: I find it depends on the wheels. for wire wheels and bbs style rims i find they print better flat and theres way less chance of the spokes breaking when you remove them. when wheels with spokes are at any angle the supports tend to be on the spokes but when they are flat it seems to ignnore them. Most other styles i have upright but angled back between 30 and 45 degrees. if the wheels are fairly thick walled they go nearer 30 but the thinner the wall the more angle i put on them but never over 45. Having said that i printed out a few of the slowlysmodels bomb wheel sets which are thick walled but i printed them flat and everyone of them turned out great. blackbox wheels i print at 45 every time with decent success. On 2/20/2024 at 4:24 PM, Mattilacken said: I say as Les, but most i have printed have been working great with around 30-40 deg. I tend to have no issues as long as the bottom edge is propper supported and if the spokes are thin i only support them close to the center. as well as the pin is supported, so far all but the first sets have been almost perfect. An other question, large flat parts, how do you support them so they dont warp? On 2/21/2024 at 2:17 AM, Michael jones said: I print "regular" spoked wheels flat to the build plate on supports. That has worked great so far. I'm sure they can be printed at any angle with the correct amount of supports regardless but would take longer. For wire wheels like the Maserati birdcage wire wheels, I printed them vertical, 90 degrees to the build plate on supports. This is to stop the "wires" buckling during the print which did happen when I tried to print them flat. I learned from some other peoples experience on facebook. I'm still new to the 3d printing game, but these ways have worked well for me. Mike On 2/22/2024 at 10:16 AM, iamsuperdan said: Personally, I tilt the wheels at 22 degrees. I just find it works great, with practically no layer lines. Flat or 45 degrees, I get visibly layer lines. For tires, I just print them flat, and have never seen any issues. Thanks for the input guys. I decided to print a set in both tilted 30 degrees, and flat. I spent a bit more time on the supports on the tilted version and they came out almost perfectly round. The flat ones came out good as well as I made sure the supports avoided the spokes. If you'll note on the pic, the top set was printed flat and you can clearly see the layer lines in the light reflected off the one on the right. I looked closely at the tilted ones and there were now visible layer lines, at least visible with these old eyes and zoom phone camera. Now I can get back to mocking up my Fairlane for the Cannonball Run! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeatMan Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 (edited) So I upgraded to a new printer, as my old Anycubic Photon Zero was not getting it done. I bought the Elegoo Mars 9K, and I'm quite impressed with the results. It took a while to get it dialed in, and I had to switch resins but the results are worth it. Its called an entry level printer but I feel its entry "priced" but not beginner friendly because it doesn't print straight out of the box like my Zero did. In the pics below, the lighter color prints are with my Photon using Anycubic model gray resin. The darker prints are the Mars prints using Elegoo standard gray V2 resin. The lines are crisper, and the finish is much smoother. This will mean less sanding, and loss of further detail. I recommend it to anyone looking for a printer with a smaller print area, which is great for me since I don't do bodies, and most chassis come in sections. The last two pics show a bed I designed for my 53 F100 with wider fenders and its about the max you can get on the bed, though you can go taller, as I printed this with the tail up. Edited February 24 by MeatMan 9K instead of 12K printer 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stitchdup Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 I've been using jayo standard grey resin recently. its half the price of anycubics resin and the results are much nicer. Its seems to clean better afterwards too. i was finding the anycubic would sorta clump on small parts. The bottles are awful though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeatMan Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 1 hour ago, stitchdup said: I've been using jayo standard grey resin recently. its half the price of anycubics resin and the results are much nicer. Its seems to clean better afterwards too. i was finding the anycubic would sorta clump on small parts. The bottles are awful though Yes, I had more spillage with the AC resin myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattilacken Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 On 2/24/2024 at 4:57 PM, MeatMan said: Nice to see your new printer working good! The right one look over exposed to me. you could try do reduce the light on time and use the same resin as you have in the new one and your result with the old one will probobly improve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattilacken Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 An other question, large flat parts like a panel or hood, how do you support them so they dont warp when beeing cured? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stitchdup Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 2 hours ago, Mattilacken said: An other question, large flat parts like a panel or hood, how do you support them so they dont warp when beeing cured? i have them tilted back on th rear edge of the hood. I also add a couple milimetres to the back edge so if the edge doesn't turn out right i can file it back to where it need to be. I also leave it on the supports until after curing but i do this with most large thin items. a panel i would have supported upright. I tend to do my supports so they dont land on areas with trim or detail and with the front facing of the print items mostly clear of supports Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattilacken Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 3 hours ago, stitchdup said: i have them tilted back on th rear edge of the hood. I also add a couple milimetres to the back edge so if the edge doesn't turn out right i can file it back to where it need to be. I also leave it on the supports until after curing but i do this with most large thin items. a panel i would have supported upright. I tend to do my supports so they dont land on areas with trim or detail and with the front facing of the print items mostly clear of supports Okay I tried this but it got a bit bent middle came in to the upper supports. Is this what you would do?: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeatMan Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 9 hours ago, Mattilacken said: An other question, large flat parts like a panel or hood, how do you support them so they dont warp when beeing cured? Good question! I can't recall any success with large unattached panels like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stitchdup Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 5 hours ago, Mattilacken said: Okay I tried this but it got a bit bent middle came in to the upper supports. Is this what you would do?: i use a lot more supports than that. usually light or medium supports with it layed back more. the back surface i would have at least 4 rows of support and posssibly more. imagine its a piece of that paper with squares on it. i would have it at 7 or 8 mm and everywhere a line crosses would be a support Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 16 hours ago, Mattilacken said: An other question, large flat parts like a panel or hood, how do you support them so they dont warp when beeing cured? ✌🏾✌🏾 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpg.d0926de2d8346363976c7c0a63bd15d7.jpg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.