MrObsessive Posted December 5, 2023 Share Posted December 5, 2023 2 hours ago, Michael jones said: Your work is awesome. Can you explain the process in a bit more detail about adding thickness to the game models? Any help would be much appreciated, thanks! There's way, way, way too much to try and explain in a little text box here. I do have a YT channel where I go over some aspects of converting files to print. Not video game files per se, but .obj files. The vid game files need to be in the .obj format first before anything can be done to 'em. That's a whole 'nuther kettle of fish as there's certain programs you need to convert a lot of those, and that can't be explained here how those programs need to function. Here's one of my vids............ 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael jones Posted December 7, 2023 Share Posted December 7, 2023 On 12/6/2023 at 12:23 PM, MrObsessive said: There's way, way, way too much to try and explain in a little text box here. I do have a YT channel where I go over some aspects of converting files to print. Not video game files per se, but .obj files. The vid game files need to be in the .obj format first before anything can be done to 'em. That's a whole 'nuther kettle of fish as there's certain programs you need to convert a lot of those, and that can't be explained here how those programs need to function. Here's one of my vids............ Awesome video mate, thanks so much for your help! I have designed some wheels/parts but never added thickness to a .obj car body file. Your video is very clear and easy to follow. Thanks! Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eran_k Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 Hey guys, really want to get a 3d printer, i have some experience in CAD and FDM printing, and watched many YT videos on resin printing. i debating which printer to get, and debating between 3 Mars 4 Ultra: smaller print area, 9k, 18micron pixel size Mars 4 Max: bigger print area, 6K, 34 Micron pixel size Saturn 3: Bigger print area,12K, 24 Micron pixel size the 2 mars cost about the same, the Saturn will be 180$ more for me (with shipping) I don't know how many complete bodies I'm going to actually print, seems this is something that only few modelers are succeeding at, i will probably print lot more stuff like wheels,engines and other detail and custom parts. the question is whether i better make the effort ang buy the Saturn, or stay with one of the Mars 4's what do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stitchdup Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 21 minutes ago, eran_k said: Hey guys, really want to get a 3d printer, i have some experience in CAD and FDM printing, and watched many YT videos on resin printing. i debating which printer to get, and debating between 3 Mars 4 Ultra: smaller print area, 9k, 18micron pixel size Mars 4 Max: bigger print area, 6K, 34 Micron pixel size Saturn 3: Bigger print area,12K, 24 Micron pixel size the 2 mars cost about the same, the Saturn will be 180$ more for me (with shipping) I don't know how many complete bodies I'm going to actually print, seems this is something that only few modelers are succeeding at, i will probably print lot more stuff like wheels,engines and other detail and custom parts. the question is whether i better make the effort ang buy the Saturn, or stay with one of the Mars 4's what do you think? if you think you will be doing bodies I'd go for the largest you can afford. even if you dont do bodies you can still print multiple items at once. I have 2 printers and my first was an anycubic mono but i found it too small for doing bodies, so bought an anycubic m3 max. another thing to look for is a decent deal. since its january a bit of looking might find you a deal that has a printer and curing station. another thing is make sure your computer has enough power to run the slicers as most need at least an 8gig processor or they will crash. Personally I'd get the biggest, even if you dont do many bodies its good to have the option available without having to buy another like i did. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippi Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 Great forum. I'm looking at the Anycubic Photon Mono M5s and the Pro version that just came out. Anyone using one that can share their thoughts on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattilacken Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 On 1/15/2024 at 8:24 PM, Zippi said: Great forum. I'm looking at the Anycubic Photon Mono M5s and the Pro version that just came out. Anyone using one that can share their thoughts on it? I have the M5 at work and i am happy with it. Not been using it enough to give any tips but its great for making parts and its big so i can make chassis with no problem. Would like to practice more and try other resins but i can only have water washable on work due to regulations on ventilation and such. And I would definitly use Chitubox instead of the oem splitter. Give me a shout when you have it and i gan give my settings to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stitchdup Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 I dont have the m5 but i have m3 and a mono 4. I never use the anycubic slicer, and instead i use the free version of lychee. Any problems I've had have been user error rather than a fault with the machines, apart from the aurofeeder on the m3. It stopped working but it was at the same time the bottles of resin changed slightly. I got replacement parts free under guarentee and they arrived in less than 2 weeks. The problem turned out to be the new bottles were a couple of mm shorter so the feed tube was getting blocked. 3mm off the bottom fixed it and its been fine since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippi Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 Good stuff fellows. I've been looking at the Anycubic Photon Mono M5s and the new M5s Pro. Since I would be running this printer in my garage where I do have a heater but it only runs when I'm in the garage, is the temparature changes going to affect the quality of the print? Before retirement I was a CMM Programmer in the Quality dept. at an Automotive company so I'm well aware of the enviroment and how it changes the machinery and the product. The M5s pro version comes with an Air Heater & Purifier module that would help stabalize the temp and humidity inside the unit. Anyone running a 3D printer in their garage that could shed some light on the print quality and errors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 I got a Phrozen Mini 8k S before the holidays and now got around to setting it up. These are my first prints other than the test prints. I used Lychee slicer and automatic supports. I'm very happy with how these turned out, I figured they would fail a few times just due to the thin and complex shapes. I can see how this gets addictive. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 What is a fairly easy easy program for resizing models? I know most of the slicers let you resale the whole model but I want to make the hole in a set of tires bigger without changing the overall diameter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slotto Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 My wife got me the Creality Ender 3 for Christmas. So much to learn! I'm getting hang of drawing in 3d and have been successful in squirting out a few pieces. The seat on the far left I copped from an airplane kit I found online. It printed out a little too thin for my liking so I took some measurements and drew it up a little thicker and included a seat cushion for kicks. The red round back was another drawing and the diamond seat was from a go cart kit. The frame is for a 32 Ford. I drew it up using measurements I found in a Google search. I'm attempting to draw up the body. Not sure how it will turn out. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 1 hour ago, Slotto said: I'm attempting to draw up the body. Not sure how it will turn out. Drawing up car bodies once you get familiar with orthographic views and blueprints, you'll find it gets easier as time goes on. Right now I've got several files "Under Construction"-----the latest is a 1958 Chrysler Ghia Super Dart that I was working on just today. I had no blueprints----I had only to go by some very good front, side, and rear views to work with. I've still a ways to go yet, but I'm learning something new all the time working with Blender, and there are some sections that were tougher than others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 7 hours ago, Fat Brian said: What is a fairly easy easy program for resizing models? I know most of the slicers let you resale the whole model but I want to make the hole in a set of tires bigger without changing the overall diameter. I use strictly Blender for all my 3D work. I'd recommend if you have the program, to go on YT and take a look at the many tutorials that are on there that show how this can be done. There are probably other 3D programs out there to do that, but it still would take some knowing of what's involved to do that type of task for what you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slotto Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 That looks fantastic! I have Blender but find it has a steep leaning curve. I'm using the Cadd program from the office now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 2 hours ago, MrObsessive said: I use strictly Blender for all my 3D work. I'd recommend if you have the program, to go on YT and take a look at the many tutorials that are on there that show how this can be done. There are probably other 3D programs out there to do that, but it still would take some knowing of what's involved to do that type of task for what you need. I have Blender, I tried to learn it around 10 or so years ago when I was still doing 3d modeling but bounced of it due to the complexity. I downloaded the latest version today and will try again. I know the effort will be worth it if I can figure it out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 15 hours ago, Fat Brian said: I have Blender, I tried to learn it around 10 or so years ago when I was still doing 3d modeling but bounced of it due to the complexity. I downloaded the latest version today and will try again. I know the effort will be worth it if I can figure it out. Brian, I would get a grasp of the basics of Blender first before jumping into the more complex things. Getting to know which hotkeys do what, basic tasks and functions of the program, etc. I'm on different forums on FB, and one of the common complaints I see is someone is trying to do something with either Blender, or one of the other programs, and I can tell almost immediately they don't have the basics down, because what they're asking is rather elemental. It'll definitely save you a ton of grief and frustration, as Blender does have a steep learning curve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 1 hour ago, MrObsessive said: Brian, I would get a grasp of the basics of Blender first before jumping into the more complex things. Getting to know which hotkeys do what, basic tasks and functions of the program, etc. I'm on different forums on FB, and one of the common complaints I see is someone is trying to do something with either Blender, or one of the other programs, and I can tell almost immediately they don't have the basics down, because what they're asking is rather elemental. It'll definitely save you a ton of grief and frustration, as Blender does have a steep learning curve. I made some progress last night and found a post about how to do what I need online. Once I get to sit down with it tonight I'll try to reproduce the post I found. I'm also going through a video tutorial about the basic controls. In the program I started using 20 years ago you had to manually enter vertices and faces so Blender is a big step up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 I got it figured out, I used a boolean modifier to cut the hole in the tires bigger. I've done more in Blender in the last few days than I did in years before. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael jones Posted February 5 Share Posted February 5 I have been working on some flares and body kit items for this Starlet body by Andrey-Bezrodny. First time using blender. Working well. Work in progress. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stitchdup Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 (edited) Is anybody else noticing they are using a lot of memory sticks for printing. I seem to be wrecking them every 3 or 4 weeks if i do a load of printing. To try and reduce the amount of sticks i'm going through i ordered a couple of dash cam sd cards to see if they last any longer. My thinking is dash cams also put memory through a lot of reads and writes so they should last longer in the printers too. There wasn't much difference in cost so it seemed like a worthwhile test to try out. I'll keep you updated on how they work out. This is what happens to prints when the memory stick goes bad. If you look at the centre of the print it appears almost as if a bubble formed in the print. That warped and twisted thing should be a vw turbo piping and some wheel rims for a drag car. This is how all my first prints turned out when i first got my printer and it was 3 months into using it before i found out about the memory stick being trash. I wasted a lot of money on resin trying to get it to work for me. dont mind the state of the print, its just a test print washed in old alcohol and i will be changing it before i print parts to use. I dont see the point in wasting clean alcohol on a test print that most likely wont be used Edited February 7 by stitchdup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeatMan Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 4 hours ago, stitchdup said: Is anybody else noticing they are using a lot of memory sticks for printing. I seem to be wrecking them every 3 or 4 weeks if i do a load of printing. To try and reduce the amount of sticks i'm going through i ordered a couple of dash cam sd cards to see if they last any longer. My thinking is dash cams also put memory through a lot of reads and writes so they should last longer in the printers too. There wasn't much difference in cost so it seemed like a worthwhile test to try out. I'll keep you updated on how they work out. This is what happens to prints when the memory stick goes bad. If you look at the centre of the print it appears almost as if a bubble formed in the print. That warped and twisted thing should be a vw turbo piping and some wheel rims for a drag car. This is how all my first prints turned out when i first got my printer and it was 3 months into using it before i found out about the memory stick being trash. I wasted a lot of money on resin trying to get it to work for me. dont mind the state of the print, its just a test print washed in old alcohol and i will be changing it before i print parts to use. I dont see the point in wasting clean alcohol on a test print that most likely wont be used Have you tried reformatting them? I've only had one crash and just formatted it and it was good to go. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stitchdup Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 13 minutes ago, MeatMan said: Have you tried reformatting them? I've only had one crash and just formatted it and it was good to go. yeah but i only get one print out of them before it needs done again and it might not work for the whole file if its a body or over 1500 slices. The print in the pic was a freshly formatted stick. I have printed a lot of bodies so thats 3 or 4 thousand uses each time so they get well used. I'm on my second and third sticks for each printer now. I only use them for the printers and they only get used on one computer too but i dont think that makes a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenmojr Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 I found this 3D printable file for a 1953 Hudson Jet 4 Door for $10.00 on sales (regular price is $20.00) at CG Trader. I did not download it but thought someone here maybe looking for this car. https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/automotive/hudson-jet-4-door-1953 Cheers Ken 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenmojr Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 Andrey-Bezrodny, creator of the 3D model of the 1953 Hudson also has a few other cars for sale at $10.00 including 1 1977 Ford T-Bird, 1967 Plymouth Valiant and a few more. I do not know Andrey-Bezrodny and just stumbled upon him on a 3D car model page on Facebook. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stitchdup Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 2 minutes ago, Kenmojr said: Andrey-Bezrodny, creator of the 3D model of the 1953 Hudson also has a few other cars for sale at $10.00 including 1 1977 Ford T-Bird, 1967 Plymouth Valiant and a few more. I do not know Andrey-Bezrodny and just stumbled upon him on a 3D car model page on Facebook. his files print fairly nice too. I've done a few of them and have more to do. he has a free file of a recent jeep thats currently free and it looks good printed. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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