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Posted

In one of the other threads on this kit, I can only recall seeing one mention of the sail panels. I don't always notice inaccuracies with models, but, these things are, well...(I’m astonished)?! They doglegged the wrong end of them! I guess the straight drop at the top should not actually be part of the sail panel, but only the roof panel. I started messing around with the one I had here, to see if I could make it look better. Has anybody else attempted to, or actually corrected one of them? I'm interested in any feedback, or further thoughts about fixing this thing!

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Posted (edited)

It's always astounded me that nobody else has ever apparently noticed that jarring inaccuracy on that kit.

To me it's about as obvious as getting jabbed in the eye with a sharp stick.

Looks like you're off to a good start. Just watch the curves and lines carefully and make what you see.

EDIT: Looks like the taper on top of the quarter panel could use a little more work.

Just a thought...one technique I've used quite successfully when I was having a hard time getting a side shape just right: find a good profile photo online, save it, and if you have a way to fiddle with image sizes from your printer, print one out that is close to 1/25 (shoot for getting the wheelbase of your printout the same as the wheelbase of your model). Make multiple copies if necessary, and cut templates to use to work towards.

EDIT2: I used that method to get the depth of the frame rail covers / bellypan, and the curvature of the hood and nose and dividing line on the hood sides for a build of the Eddie Dye roadster, below.

The same method was used to determine that the curve of the decklid on the Revell '29 Ford body is closer to correct than the same curve on the similar AMT '29 Ford body...and the reason I decided to use the Revell version to do the Eddie Dye car.

042_zpsynrpuy5c.webp.8d40ee32d6bb9366bb8ac1af74ac621a.webp

 

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
Posted
9 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

It's always astounded me that nobody else has ever apparently noticed that jarring inaccuracy on that kit.

To me it's about as obvious as getting jabbed in the eye with a sharp stick.

Looks like you're off to a good start. Just watch the curves and lines carefully and make what you see.

EDIT: Looks like the taper on top of the quarter panel could use a little more work.

Just a thought...one technique I've used quite successfully when I was having a hard time getting a side shape just right: find a good profile photo online, save it, and if you have a way to fiddle with image sizes from your printer, print one out that is close to 1/25 (shoot for getting the wheelbase of your printout the same as the wheelbase of your model). Make multiple copies if necessary, and cut templates to use to work towards.

EDIT2: I used that method to get the depth of the frame rail covers / bellypan, and the curvature of the hood and nose and dividing line on the hood sides for a build of the Eddie Dye roadster, below.

The same method was used to determine that the curve of the decklid on the Revell '29 Ford body is closer to correct than the same curve on the similar AMT '29 Ford body...and the reason I decided to use the Revell version to do the Eddie Dye car.

042_zpsynrpuy5c.webp.8d40ee32d6bb9366bb8ac1af74ac621a.webp

 

Thank, Bill. I am planning to do just as you suggested. I need a new printer cartridge,  so I can do that--and print the rest of the decals for my Chevy II. So far, I only have a half-hour or so, in this thing. I know there's more, to do, but, I figured to at least get a start with this kit's most glaring inaccuracy. I appreciate your comments, sir!

Posted

Are there issues with accuracy and buildability? Yes. But sometimes it's just fun to visit something from your childhood, corrections be darned, and just build it again. 

Posted
20 minutes ago, Classicgas said:

Are there issues with accuracy and buildability? Yes. But sometimes it's just fun to visit something from your childhood, corrections be darned, and just build it again. 

And, for some of us, it's fun to mess around, and fix it. Different strokes!?

Posted

It astounds me that no other manufacturer hasn't stepped up to tool a decent 914, either as a 914-6 or a four-cylinder. I came close to buying a real one ('72 2.0) decades ago, but gave up when I noticed the floorpans had been 'reinforced' using sheetmetal from a refrigerator... 

Posted
2 minutes ago, 64Comet404 said:

It astounds me that no other manufacturer hasn't stepped up to tool a decent 914, either as a 914-6 or a four-cylinder. I came close to buying a real one ('72 2.0) decades ago, but gave up when I noticed the floorpans had been 'reinforced' using sheetmetal from a refrigerator... 

That's pretty cool...  :D

  • Haha 1
Posted
35 minutes ago, Can-Con said:

We used to use hot water heater skins for patching floors. Heavy gage and well coated so it didn't rust out fast.

Early in my career, I wasn't too picky about using exactly the OEM gage metal to repair rusty floors...though seeing diamond-plate stick-welded into cars kinda chapped my backside...but as the value of old cars increased and my skills improved, I found I derived a lot more satisfaction, and made more money, if I limited myself to working for clients who'd pay to have things put back like they were originally, even when no replacement panels were available and everything had to be hand-fabbed.

That was around the time I got involved in doing composite repairs too, and an offshoot of that was finding an epoxy-based material that could be used for making matched press-dies for sheetmetal, made by a local chemical company that also supplied the Lockheed plant here.

Posted
2 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

..."sheetmetal from a refrigerator"..."cool"...   :D

Whoosh / You Missed the Joke | Know Your Meme

3 hours later I get the joke.  Good one Bill.  I hate these senior moments. 

Posted
4 minutes ago, Tabbysdaddy said:

I cut floor patches for my S10 out of the hood...

And perfectly reasonable if you're working on a daily driver that isn't going to be subjected to "restoration" scrutiny.

Posted
2 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

And perfectly reasonable if you're working on a daily driver that isn't going to be subjected to "restoration" scrutiny.

You might not say that if you saw my welds. :D

  • Haha 1
Posted
8 minutes ago, Can-Con said:

Can I play too? 

 

That actually looks like you spent considerable effort making the major contours and shapes conform pretty well to the OEM design.

That's so far beyond most of what I see having been done by "professionals", it's not even in the same star system.  :D

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