MGC GTS Sebring 1968, C1 Models Transkit, Aoshima, 1/24

[Gramps46]

Very well done indeed.

[Bainford]

Coming along nicely, Matt.

[Matt Bacon]

Thanks, gentlemen. The grille is now complete.... a very nice piece of photo etch. The engraved badge takes paint well. I used Tamiya lacquer paint cleaned off with a small cotton swab moistened with thinner, and finished with some Citadel 'ardcoat.

best,

M.

[absmiami]

Yup

[Justin Porter]

I'm really so happy to see that this is turning out so beautifully.

[Bugatti Fan]

Very interesting thread Matt, and the bit of history about the car being originally red and hastily having all the outer bodywork painted in British Racing Green in order to compete.

That grille assembly took a bit of doing but looks so effective on the model.

Apart from the Sebring MGC trans kit, I believe that C1 also make an MGB Coupe body for those wanting to build a standard road car by retro fitting the Aoshima kit that has done the rounds being issued also by Revell at one time.

[Matt Bacon]

On to the details now. Light clusters are fixed, and I have to do the rear race roundel because various bits of furniture fit over it...

The light cowls are the last bit that worries me. Once they are done, we're on the home straight. I think whoever has done the decals has done a really good job...

best,

M.

[Matt Bacon]

The headlightlight cowls are on. They are well defined, and the combination of an Optivisor, very sharp nail scissors and an angled light made cutting and trimming them relatively straightforward. They overlap the bodywork substantially, as they do on the original. I'm mulling over how to make the riveted panels that actually hold them on. Embossed aluminum tape, maybe.

The bonnet strap is more wine bottle foil and the etched hardware from the transkit. I threaded the two straps with the buckle still attached to the fret -- it made it a lot easier to hang two U-shaped loops over the central bar. Flattening it out held everything in place and let me cut the buckle free. Then I adjusted the top and bottom lengths to get the fittings in the right place before folding the etch over each end.

Back door hardware and reflectors attached. The effectiveness of the red interior at "lifting" the whole thing is clear, and what I was hoping for.

Identification light, red for Sebring '68 in position. Now the tape is off, most of the handling will be using cotton gloves.

...as you can see from the dust!

Time for the rest of the decals, and then the final hardware details which again sit on top or very close to some of the markings...

best,

M.

Edited January 23, 2023 by Matt Bacon

[Pierre Rivard]

Wonderful build Matt. How did you secure the headlight covers? No adhesive is visible. They look really good.

[Matt Bacon]

2 minutes ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Wonderful build Matt. How did you secure the headlight covers? No adhesive is visible. They look really good.

Thanks, Pierre. I used “Formula 560 Canopy Glue” from Pacer (or Zap). Brilliant stuff… clear, strong, quick-drying and softens in water if you mess up. I use it for all my clear parts, and a lot more besides.

Best,

M.

[Justin Porter]

16 hours ago, Matt Bacon said:

I'm mulling over how to make the riveted panels that actually hold them on. Embossed aluminum tape, maybe.

I would imagine a strip of the tape or chrome foil painted black would serve nicely for the panel and then drill and mount some of the KA Models small rivets.
 

[Matt Bacon]

Right, I'm calling that done:

Beauty shots over in Under Glass...

best,

M.

[DustyMojave]

Well done! Thanks for showing your process.