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Posted

I'm really liking the extra goodies. Especially the cool looking mudflaps. Can't wait to see some color coats on this baby.

Posted
5 hours ago, MarkJ said:

I'm really liking the extra goodies. Especially the cool looking mudflaps. Can't wait to see some color coats on this baby.

Thanks bud. It will be a while before I do color, but I just primed it in the last hour. Brushed on 2 coats and I surprised myself. Not a piece of dirt or even a hint of brush marks. I won't even try to polish that primer, going straight to color coat. I wish it was always that easy.

 

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Posted
3 hours ago, absmiami said:

Now i GET it

have you sourced a 5th Borraini for the rear deck ?

Going cheap on this build as I just put myself on a credit card embargo. So unless  I receive a gift from a good samaritan this build will be all sweat and spares...

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Man, you're right. That primer looks perfect. Is that Vallejo or did you find something better? I'm not real impressed with the Vallejo primers. Need to find something else to brush on.

Posted
14 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Thanks bud. It will be a while before I do color, but I just primed it in the last hour. Brushed on 2 coats and I surprised myself. Not a piece of dirt or even a hint of brush marks. I won't even try to polish that primer, going straight to color coat. I wish it was always that easy.

 

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I'm still practicing after your advise, 

 

Looking real good so far

  • Thanks 1
Posted
14 hours ago, MarkJ said:

Man, you're right. That primer looks perfect. Is that Vallejo or did you find something better? I'm not real impressed with the Vallejo primers. Need to find something else to brush on.

Still Vallejo, with 20-30% water thinning, 2 coats. This way it goes on very smooth. It does not have a filling property but provides a good foundation for color coats. I spend time prepping the body before. After mods the whole body was wet sanded all the way down to 4000 grit before primer.

Posted
5 minutes ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Still Vallejo, with 20-30% water thinning, 2 coats. This way it goes on very smooth. It does not have a filling property but provides a good foundation for color coats. I spend time prepping the body before. After mods the whole body was wet sanded all the way down to 4000 grit before primer.

Thanks for those tips. I need to focus on getting it on smoother because like you said it's not really a good filler primer. I don't think I have used water at those percentages so maybe that will be the solution to my problems.

Posted (edited)

I'm sure you have researched this Pierre but for the others following Borrani wire wheels used in racing were painted in lieu of chromed.

https://www.borrani.com/painted-borrani-wheel.html

Painted Borrani Wire Wheels

Borrani wheels do come in different finishes. Back in period if the wheels were built for racing they were painted. Simple as that. Faffing with Chrome was more effort, but also in the day there was always the risk of nitrogen embrittlement. What was critical for a racing car on Borrani wheels was strength, and mild steel spokes that are simply painted was what they did.

 

Edited by afx
Posted
36 minutes ago, afx said:

Welcome back JC. Thanks for the info about wheels. I de-chromed and painted my cheapie wheels. I have used the Goodwood pictures as part of my references although with caution as far as accuracy of restorations. One thing I have not done is the red rear wheels...just looks odd to me.

Posted

Not sure yet when I will paint the body but I felt like playing with color formulations this morning. Pic 1 is the actual race car in the pits in 62, thanks to Gramps for providing this rare period color pic of this race car. Pic 2 is the restored car at Goodwood in 2018, not sure about that color. Pic 3 is a production car painted dark opalescent blue.

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

I'm loving the very top picture if you could duplicate that. That really pops to me, as they say. I know you will get it right. You always do.

Posted

Starting work on the engine. First pic is mock up of kit parts to see how everything generally fits and experiment with assembly sequences. The Revell sequence sometimes contradicts with what I'd prefer to do for assembly and painting steps.

Second picture is one of the many ref pics I will go by. This one is a continuation lightweight. Again I have questions about how my race car was restored as it does have Weber carbs nut a wet sump oiling system. The Cuningham car has a dry sump, The D types before did and the Lightweight did. So that' s it, I will try to scratch build some of the visible componentry as well as Weber carbs, fuel delivery and a few other details to get the look that I want.

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Fuel delivery to Webers. This is where RB Motion stuff would help but since my last purchase still needs time to get here I will try to scratch build it using styrene 0.5 and 1,2 mm rod and some ignition wires...

 

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  • Like 2
Posted

Distributor and feeding wires to the plugs is a tight fit with the distributor sitting at an angle at the front end and somewhat under the first Weber carb, then wires feed between the coolant run and the head, wrapping over the cover held by a bracket. Location of the bracket is critical to clear the hood. It's tight but doable. Connkur distributor (the best), the rest scratch built.

 

 

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Posted

Found this hollow wrapped wire lace at the jewelry department at Michaels. It is 0.75 mm diameter and matches well to a scale 3/4 inch reinforced hose. I'll be using it for the oil breather hoses.

Using cheap 0.6 mm wire for the leads at both end or the runs. The wrapped wire slips right on

Stop me if this is to much details...

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Posted

All good

in fact, all very good

consider re-doing the upper A arms - they are less than great  - not as precise as the rest of the forward compartment … show the age of the kit …

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