Issue with small sink mark on the roof of my kit

[JerseeJerry55]

I cracked open the cellophane on my AMT/Model King 19701/2 Z28 and during inspection of the kit I noticed a slight sink mark on the roof directly above the dome light on the inside. Any suggestions for the fix. I am not good with putty can never get it smooth.

[NOBLNG]

I think that’s about your only option. Then some very careful sanding. I really like these sanding sticks.

[EngineerBob]

There are a lot of different putties available so, if you've had trouble sanding some, try a different putty that may be easier for you to work. A good product to use on a small divot such as yours is "sprue goo", liquid plastic cement mixed with small bits of chopped up plastic sprue. Being of the same material as your model body it will sand and finish the same once dry. Make sure you use sandpaper backed by a hard material so that you don't sand a bigger deppression into the roof.

[ZTony8]

Tamiya putty is my go-to when I have need for filling or levelling. Goes on thinly, sands well.

[jaymcminn]

Tamiya putty, applied thin with a pallette knife. Allow it to dry for a day or two then sand using sanding sticks like Greg posted above. (top tip... you can get the same basic thing at Sally Beauty supply!). Prime, sand, and you should be good.

[Shark]

Depending on how deep it is, but put a drop of super glue on it and let it sit level overnight. I have done this for ejector marks. It may take more than one application. Make sure you prime it afterwards.

[Joe Nunes]

I have used super glue as a spot fill, and find that some Talc powder mixed up quickly with a drop or two of glue makes a great filler that can be sanded smooth within an hour or so. Sanding within the short time period allows plastic dust to also cover the glue and that gets sanded smooth too.  I have always found super glue harder to sand the longer you wait which can then result in sanding a depression around a glue fix because the plastic is softer than the dried glue spot. 

Joe

[JerseeJerry55]

1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:

I think that’s about your only option. Then some very careful sanding. I really like these sanding sticks.

Thanks for sharing. What brand are the sticks, and where did you purchase them.

[NOBLNG]

33 minutes ago, JerseeJerry55 said:

Thanks for sharing. What brand are the sticks, and where did you purchase them.

Infini is the brand name, and I got them at my local hobby shop. They also come in 4-1/4 x 5-1/2 foam backed sheets. They don’t clog easily and last a long time. The sticks are especially handy.

[Dpate]

Bondo filler will work too or even sprue goo.  

[Mark]

I'd use catalyzed (two-part) glazing putty.  There is a Bondo product that is sold at auto parts chain stores like Auto Zone.  Eleven or twelve bucks last time I looked.  Look for the one with a small tube in the package behind the big one.  Rough up the area where it is going, mix the filler and apply it, file and sand after it (quickly) cures.

One-part putties cure by evaporation.  Hard to tell just when it has stopped evaporating (and shrinking), it could be after you have done finish paint and assembly.  Automotive spot putty is in its essence extremely unthinned lacquer primer.  Applying lacquer primer over it in heavy coats can soften it. 

I never went in for baking soda, that stuff absorbs moisture.  The soda/super glue combo often ends up harder than the surrounding plastic, making sanding problematic.  Leave that stuff in the kitchen where it belongs.

I used to be big on "sprue filler".  But it too cures by evaporation.  I have since abandoned it in favor of a two-part epoxy filler that sands and works the same as the surrounding plastic.

[Shark]

Two part catalyzed fillers such as Evercoat are my favorite. I only mentioned the super glue because he sounded like he wanted to stay away from puttys and fillers.

[dragstk]

I also sand with some coarse sandpaper first, to give what ever I fill the sink mark with, some place to bite in

[NOBLNG]

Milliput super fine or Tamiya epoxy putty would work if you happen to have them. They sand beautifully.

[Chariots of Fire]

Tamiya putty in very thin layers works well.  Mixing superglue with sanding residue works also but the difficulty with using CA as a filler except in cracks is that it is much harder than the surrounding plastic.  As a result it is very difficult to sand it smooth with the surrounding plastic unless great care is taken.  Sanding sticks are a must.

[Joe Nunes]

Over the years I have found that the secret to sanding CA mixed with talc powder, used as a filler for small areas, is to sand the applied filler within an hour. I usually sand after 30 - 45 minutes with 180 grit and then finish up with 320 grit. This knocks CA down and mixes plastic sanding dust with the filler which further fills the location. The longer one waits to knock the CA filler down the harder the glue becomes.  For larger areas or deeper fills I use Evercoat 2 part filler which is easy to sand when dry. 

 

Joe