Peeling paint

[Mopar2]

Maybe someone can answer this for me.I am building a 70 Dodge Dart Resin body.I used Mr Hobby-Mr Surface 1000.And let it dry 2 days.I had things around the house to do...Them I used rattle can Tamiya TS-? Metallic Purple.I let that dry atleast 24 hrs.Then I went to Chrome foil the molding.The paint peeled off the Resin body.Does anyone know why this happened???I peeled the rest of the paint off under warm tap water...This has never happened to me before.So I just used Testers Metallic Purple(rattle).And it covered fine with out primer...

Edited March 13, 2023 by Mopar2

[Bugatti Fan]

You did not mention it you thoroughly cleaned the resin body of any residue mould release agent and keyed it with fine wetndry or similar, washed it off and dried it beforehand.

The fact that you stripped the paint job that went wrong forced a thorough clean up, so maybe that is why the next paint job went on OK.

If you did all the proper clean up first time around it is a bit of a mystery as to why the paint job failed. Maybe there was some incompatibility with what was used? Acrylic over oil based paints like enamel and lacquers can lead to problems, but generally not the other way around as a rule.

We all get paint failures at some time of other, and not always possibly know why! 

Edited March 13, 2023 by Bugatti Fan

[Rick L]

You should sand the sheen off of the resin body. 

[espo]

In addition to the thorough cleaning suggested by Noel you might want to use an automotive type of primer as a base on resin body parts. Most of the paints designed for plastic models have a hard time bonding with the resin surfaces. The automotive type primers seem to bond well with resin surfaces and give the paints that are usually used something to bond to. Another thing to keep in mind is when scribing around trim after final painting it is not uncommon for the paint to "crack" along the edge. 

[Tcoat]

All of the above.

When I received my first resin body (the Jimmy Flintstone Econoline) there was a little card with very specific instructions on what to clean it with and what primer to use. I followed those instructions to the letter on the outside but got lazy with the inside and just gave it a quick wipe. Wasn't worried as the inside was going to be covered in paper with white glue over the black automotive primer I used. Well The paint on the outside was rock solid and wouldn't come off if you wanted it to but inside the primer would practically fall off if you shook it hard enough. My own fault for not following instructions especially when they are so specific!

[Mopar2]

Thanks everyone for the information....This was the third Resin body I have done...The first 70 Dart I bought used.(the one I posted)That one was prepped.The Ford Fairmont Resin body.Was in good shape but I did have to light sand it.Because of small imperfections..The 70 Dart I am doing now.The Resin body was perfect...All I had to do was trim of excess.So I washed it in Dawn.Till it was squeaky clean and primed it.Then I painted it Metallic purple..It was my mistake.I should have known better.Thanks everyone.Its a lesson learned...

[av405]

I just primed a resin body with Mr. Hobby 1000 after going through prep work mentioned above and didn't have any issues. Stick to it but test it on a small part after its been cleaned to make sure the primer is compatible with your particular kit. Not all resin is created equal. 

[cobraman]

I found that when working with resin if scotch tape will not stick to the body it is not ready for paint. Works for me.

[Mopar2]

4 minutes ago, cobraman said:

I found that when working with resin if scotch tape will not stick to the body it is not ready for paint. Works for me.

Thank you...That makes sense..I will use that idea...

[Bugatti Fan]

Espo mentioned using automotive primer on resin especially.

I tend to use aerosol acrylic automotive primer on all my models and find it works well on just about everything. Saves all the faff of keep setting up an airbrush or keep going from one modelling primer to another.