Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Is this a gloss clear coat?


Recommended Posts

One more suggestion.  Start a WIP thread for your project.   It's a great way to share your progress.   Even better, it's a way to get feedback for many of your questions.  And with this group,  most likely someone who's already built the same kit can point out problem areas before they become an issue to you. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Milo said:

+ 5 dolla tax

and they don't have the chrome metal sheets for logos on ebay

You have to pay to get in the game, plain and simple.

If you don't want to spend the money, you either have to paint them, or print your own decals.

 

This is where planning comes into play.

You order 5 sets of decals, you get one free, and you pay shipping for one. (the $4.49 is shipping, not tax)

 

And yes, eBay does have photo etched parts for the Shelby GT 500.

You just have to know where to look.

 

spacer.png

 

 

 

 

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, atomicholiday said:

This is only my opinion.  Master the basics first.  There’s absolutely nothing wrong with trying out more advanced techniques, but they won’t make a model look “better” if you still have mold seems, sink marks, orange peel paint, etc, etc…

Not to say you shouldn’t try new things.  That’s how you improve.  But the extra detail isn’t completely necessary to a good clean building style.There are some incredible builders that only use what’s in the box.

Also, be careful not to compare your work or abilities to others on this or any other forum.  There are some truly talented people on here, but I guarantee it took them a long time to get to that level.  Thinking you have to be as good as them is a trap.

Most importantly, have fun.  And keep practicing.👍

I agree 1,000% !!!

You have to learn to crawl before you can run.

 

I think far too many people think that building a truly sensational model is something that you can learn to do in a couple of weeks.

Well.......it's not!!

 

Concentrate on one thing at a time and learn to do it well.

Forget the "super detailing" and learn the basics.

Try building a nice example straight from the box first.

That takes plenty of time to do right all by itself.

 

 

 

 

Steve

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I agree 1,000% !!!

You have to learn to crawl before you can run.

 

I think far too many people think that building a truly sensational model is something that you can learn to do in a couple of weeks.

Well.......it's not!!

 

Concentrate on one thing at a time and learn to do it well.

Forget the "super detailing" and learn the basics.

Try building a nice example straight from the box first.

That takes plenty of time to do right all by itself.

 

 

 

 

Steve

Yup. 

I've been doing this for over 50 years and still can't do what Steve does, probably never will be able to either.

Steve is like a 5th degree black belt building model cars, that didn't happen overnight. 

It's like everything else. To be really good it takes practice and dedication, no shortcuts in learning any skills.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Can-Con said:

Yup. 

I've been doing this for over 50 years and still can't do what Steve does, probably never will be able to either.

Steve is like a 5th degree black belt building model cars, that didn't happen overnight. 

It's like everything else. To be really good it takes practice and dedication, no shortcuts in learning any skills.

Steve is one of those guys that’s so good it makes you want to quit and find a different hobby.  That being said, we’re lucky to have guys like him around, especially when they’re so willing to share their knowledge.  

But again, for one to compare themselves to others is a mistake that can keep you from enjoying the hobby.  Instead, learn from them, but still do your own thing and build your with your own style.👍

Edited by atomicholiday
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, atomicholiday said:

Steve is one of those guys that’s so good it makes you want to quit and find a different hobby.  That being said, we’re lucky to have guys that him around, especially when they’re so willing to share their knowledge.  

But again, for one to compare themselves to others is a mistake that can keep you from enjoying the hobby.  Instead, learn from them, but still do your own thing and build your with your own style.👍

Oh, I definitely don't want to quit. I have tried SO many new things because he has shown us how. I am still working on the balance between time and results. Better results takes more time. But I have so many builds in my head I desire to accomplish!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

BMF comes in several 'colours' or 'tones', the main ones being (New Improved) Chrome, Ultra Bright Chrome, and Aluminum. The one everyone uses for chrome trim on models is (New Improved) Chrome. It is the best by far for foiling vehicle trim. The Ultra Bright Chrome, despite the name, is to be avoided for general vehicle trim as it is thicker and more difficult to use, and doesn't look as good. The BMF Aluminum foil is for replicating duller trim, but is also thicker then New Improved Chrome and should only be used where the duller look of aluminum is needed.

For most vehicle trim (window trim, side spears, etc) the regular (New Improved) Chrome is plenty bright, and in fact is really too bright for many applications. BMF Chrome wont be as shiny as real 1:1 chrome, but then again, it shouldn't be. If yours is too dull, check to be sure your package is marked 'Chrome' or 'New Improved Chrome'. If the package is marked 'Aluminum', then you have the wrong stuff. If you have BMF Chrome and it is dull, it may be your burnishing technique. How do you burnish down the BMF after you apply it? When properly applied, it should retain a pleasing chrome effect.

Chrome markers (Molotow, etc) are not as shiny as real chrome, but they can be pretty close. There are many pros & cons to using a chrome marker or chrome paint/ink, and much as been written about it on this forum, so I won't get into that here. Do a forum search for 'Molotow' or 'Chrome pens' to learn more about those products.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Milo said:

Is there any bmf that looks more like chrome? Mine seems just a bit not as shiny. And does the chrome marker actually look just like the chrome pieces?

The reflective properties of BMF are greatly enhanced through “burnishing/buffing”.

the more vigorously it’s burnished, the better the finish.

 

C4C8ED71-8575-4331-831A-81E0B2F5D397.jpeg.a5a0419568aaf42564c2bf00805ac7d5.jpeg

 

 

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Milo said:

How did you do that

You have to burnish it i.e cotton bud or cotton cloth. If you burnish it you’ll notice how the cotton bud or cloth starts turning black. Keep doing that for a little, and you’ll see the shine. 

certainly not gonna stroke no body’s  ego, but like others have said you gotta work your way up, and learn different skills, different techniques, etc. I look at models different than most as I’ll try and get it close to 1:1, but I’m not gonna try and get it 100% 1:1 hundred of wires, open doors, etc etc. It’s a plastic model that’s gonna sit, and spending 100 of hours on it is just going too far to me. I understand the satisfaction some get out of it, but I rather build 2-3 quality kits in 100 hours than just 1 to each their own. With time, practice, patience, you’ll get good at painting, clear costing, using BMF, etc etc. Just like guitarist they didn’t learn over night even though I think some are aliens lol. 

Edited by Dpate
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Dpate said:

You have to burnish it i.e cotton bud or cotton cloth. If you burnish it you’ll notice how the cotton bud or cloth starts turning black. Keep doing that for a little, and you’ll see the shine. 

certainly not gonna stroke no body’s  ego, but like others have said you gotta work your way up, and learn different skills, different techniques, etc. I look at models different than most as I’ll try and get it close to 1:1, but I’m not gonna try and get it 100% 1:1 hundred of wires, open doors, etc etc. It’s a plastic model that’s gonna sit, and spending 100 of hours on it is just going too far to me. I understand the satisfaction some get out of it, but I rather build 2-3 quality kits in 100 hours than just 1 to each their own. With time, practice, patience, you’ll get good at painting, clear costing, using BMF, etc etc. Just like guitarist they didn’t learn over night even though I think some are aliens lol. 

You’re correct.

Build what you want to build how you want to build it.

I’ve built everything from slammers and curbside, to highly detailed, and as the years progress, I’ve come to enjoy taking my time and trying to do something outside of the usual comfort zone.

It keeps things interesting for me.

And as I have found over the course of my building career, nothing kills interest in the hobby faster than stagnation and boredom.

But it’s not for everybody.

Understand Milo, that there are no rules here at all.

Just because you build one highly detailed model this year, doesn’t mean that you can’t switch it up and build 10 box stockers next year.

I prefer to keep experimenting and honing the skills necessary to do either, and then make that decision for each particular project.

But, as has been stated, try to concentrate on simplicity if you’re just starting out.

When you bite off more than you can comfortably chew, you’re just setting yourself up for utter failure, and that helps none at all to boost your enthusiasm to continue on.

 

 

 

Steve

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

You’re correct.

Build what you want to build how you want to build it.

I’ve built everything from slammers and curbside, to highly detailed, and as the years progress, I’ve come to enjoy taking my time and trying to do something outside of the usual comfort zone.

It keeps things interesting for me.

And as I have found over the course of my building career, nothing kills interest in the hobby faster than stagnation and boredom.

But it’s not for everybody.

Understand Milo, that there are no rules here at all.

Just because you build one highly detailed model this year, doesn’t mean that you can’t switch it up and build 10 box stockers next year.

I prefer to keep experimenting and honing the skills necessary to do either, and then make that decision for each particular project.

But, as has been stated, try to concentrate on simplicity if you’re just starting out.

When you bite off more than you can comfortably chew, you’re just setting yourself up for utter failure, and that helps none at all to boost your enthusiasm to continue on.

 

 

 

Steve

How did you get the bmf so smooth around the windshield? Also when I burnish with qtips it gets hair in the paint and in crevasses 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

38 minutes ago, Milo said:

How did you get the bmf so smooth around the windshield? Also when I burnish with qtips it gets hair in the paint and in crevasses 

I use Tamiya Q-tips there wounded tighter than regular Q-tips. But if you’re having trouble with regular Q-tips? Just use a cotton cloth around one finger.  But some areas may require multiple pieces of BMF, and if done right you can’t even tell it was pieced. You can get away with one piece of foil around a bend, but you’ll have to lay it down right or you’ll get bad creases in the foil, and it’ll look horrible. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Milo said:

How did you get the bmf so smooth around the windshield? Also when I burnish with qtips it gets hair in the paint and in crevasses 

It just takes practice, as with everything else.

Personally, I don’t use Q-tips for that very reason.

I use a soft cotton or flannel cloth.

 

 

 

Steve

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

38 minutes ago, Dpate said:

I use Tamiya Q-tips there wounded tighter than regular Q-tips. But if you’re having trouble with regular Q-tips? Just use a cotton cloth around one finger.  But some areas may require multiple pieces of BMF, and if done right you can’t even tell it was pieced. You can get away with one piece of foil around a bend, but you’ll have to lay it down right or you’ll get bad creases in the foil, and it’ll look horrible. 

Agreed.

The windshield frame on the Pontiac above was done with multiple pieces.

 

 

 

Steve

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...