Hoonitruck Ford F150

[MarcelT4]

Hello, today I tried something with paint.

Then I had to do a trial fit to find the right position for the rear extensions.

I think it looks good. Don't you?

[Sonorandog]

Very cool project.  Looks good.

[MarcelT4]

First of all, a happy new year to everyone.

I had some time and attached the various small parts and cables to the frame.

I hope you can see what I mean. 

[MarcelT4]

Let's continue with some color.

The engine...

...and the turbos. (completely painted with a brush)

The interior tub also got some paint.

A few more parts....

.... and of course the little house.

That's it for now.

 

 

[Mattilacken]

Great work! Das ist ser gut! 

[MarcelT4]

Hello everyone 

I have started to give the truck its "war paint".

Something has also been done here.

The A-board is ready.

Unfortunately not much, but this work keeps me busy. Today was over in no time. 

[MarcelT4]

The sponsors were next.

All decals were created and printed by myself. 

[MarcelT4]

Next....

Spoiler with BMF Aluminium. 

[Mattilacken]

Epic progress mate! Looks killer!

[MarcelT4]

I didn't really like the spoiler, so I redid it. This time I used True Metal from AK. 

A comparison with the first spoiler.

I also reworked the tank filler neck, as it has a transparent piece. This was made from a piece of cast iron, which was drilled through and hollowed out with a milling cutter.

Small things also made here.

[MarcelT4]

Hello everyone.

Today I continued with the little things.

First I made the rear parts from the inside with AK True Metal Aluminum.

Then I added the lettering to the spoiler.

The windows also got decals. The rear window was cut from a new piece of packaging. This is screwed on from the outside and later gets the holes where the rear struts go through to the cage.

This was also tried out.

The clear piece of the tank filler neck got its clamps.

And here I have highlighted the screws.

Finally, I made the brakes.

The small red part is the fuel filler cap. This also gets a decal.

 

Well, it was just a few little things, but they do hold up.

[Mattilacken]

Looking great mate!

[MarcelT4]

Today was the partial wedding. The body with the interior was put on the chassis.

The engine was put in. Nothing is glued yet.

Let's start with the hood.

And now a question: As already mentioned, the 2 struts from the rear frame then go through the rear window to the cage. How can I measure this correctly so that these holes in the windshield are positioned correctly afterwards? They have to be slotted holes, as the struts go through at an angle.

I'm looking forward to your solutions, because sometimes you think it's far too complicated, even though it's easy to solve.

Here is another picture.

The struts are not yet glued to the cage, as the windshield has to go between them first.

Edited January 25, 2024 by MarcelT4

[dino246gt]

This is a fantastic model, wow!

At that rear window, you could make "sheet metal" ends where the struts go through, painted white maybe, then the clear between them.

Not much of the window size would be reduced and using painted pieces is much easier to "fit".

Just a suggestion, but I'm sure that whatever you do, it will be amazing.

 

[Rattlecan Dan]

Something very cool going on here! Working out great.

[MarcelT4]

Hello everyone,

I have changed the engine again, this one is now completely new and 3D printed. The other engine from the Ford GT was simply too big. This kit is 1:24 and the Hoonitruck is 1:25.

The rear window is also included. 

I have now installed the tank filler neck.

And the wheels are also ready.

[MarcelT4]

Here's the current status today.

I glued the headlights into the grille.

Then put the rear together and made a trial fit.

The rear section and the spoiler are only loosely attached.

[MarcelT4]

Hello everyone,

The parts are slowly coming together.

I think it already looks pretty good.

[stitchdup]

Ni ce work, your effort is paying off

[MarcelT4]

I had forgotten that the front blinker, headlight and rear light lenses are castings from the original kit. But all the lenses are molded on, so there were no clear parts.

I simply ran clear UV resin from my printer over them and hardened them. Carefully removed and then painted with Tamiya clear paints.

[Oldriginal86]

Awesome build! If this is the direction model building is headed, I’m light years behind. Keep up the good work and take this hobby to the next level.

[Mattilacken]

You are making great progress! Looks super in every detail. How do you make your decals? 

[MarcelT4]

First of all, many thanks to you all.

I make the decals with Corel Draw. I search the web for good images and then have them converted into detailed logos. Then they are post-processed and printed on decal paper.

I use a laser printer for this. However, some people say that they should be better with an inkjet printer.

[Mattilacken]

16 hours ago, MarcelT4 said:

First of all, many thanks to you all.

I make the decals with Corel Draw. I search the web for good images and then have them converted into detailed logos. Then they are post-processed and printed on decal paper.

I use a laser printer for this. However, some people say that they should be better with an inkjet printer.

Okay beautifull work, do you use white decal paper then and use the same collor bacground as the car have? I have clear decal paper and use a photo printer but that does not work on dark surfaces.

[MarcelT4]

Hi, I use both. White and clear.

The paint pattern is printed on clear decal paper in lighter gray.

The sponsors are printed on white decal paper with a black border.