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Posted (edited)

While I am waiting for it warm up enough to primer another project, I decided to start a project I have had in mind for quite awhile. A couple of inspiration photos included. I started by roughing in the various cuts, then wrote down the best order to proceed. Today I got out the saws and removed approximately 3 scale inches from the hood and body. My goal was to keep as much of the body attached before finishing the cuts. The pix show the hood sectioned and glued together and the body pieces set in place. Final sanding will prepare the body for gluing. Next will be the top chop- debating whether to lay the windshield back or keep the same angle.

I plan on using the Columbia two speed rear axle, since I want to display this model towing a tear drop trailer.

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Edited by Paul Payne
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Posted

I think these are altered photos showing different ideas. They are Mercuries, but I will probably build mine as a Ford- add a hot rod dash, banjo steering wheel, maybe bucket seats and of course a healthy flat head!

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Posted

I like where you’re going with this. The pictures are of a 39 Mercury. While the Fords and Mercurys looked similar no body panels were interchangeable between the Ford and Mercury. They also had a longer wheelbase. 

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Posted

My initial attempt to glue the upper and lower body pieces was not successful, primarily due to difficult alignment at the door lines as well as the tendency for the lower body at the rear migrating away from the rear fenders. I will try taping the lower body to the fenders, and possibly adding a temporary spacer piece in the area. For radical body work like this similar procedures would be used on a real car!

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Posted

Had to superglue the cowl first to line up the front door lines. Will try to coax the rest of the body bit by bit into position- sort of tack welding in plastic!

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Posted
3 hours ago, Paul Payne said:

... For radical body work like this similar procedures would be used on a real car!

Longish rooves with lots of curvature are the hardest to chop...VW Bugs being among the most difficult to get right.

Just take your time and eyeball everything very critically.  B)

Posted

The goal is to get the top and bottom of the body glued solidly together for stability, then go for the top chop- still haven't decided to lay back the windshield- any thoughts?

Posted

My first reaction to the last question is "no rake-back" but I believe the 1:1 looks good that way. I have not done it but would consider it for this type of job.  I noticed also the gutters are shaved and you should do that if only to make the subsequent work on the back easier. You can always add them back after the chop if you prefer. I would not chop the backlights but cut them out as a unit and work it into the new contours, as is. You picked a tough one to chop, Paul. You don't see many chopped tudors. You have my attention!

 

Posted

Thanks for reminding me where I found pix that inspired this project! Right now I am supergluing my fingers as well as gluing everything back together. Once the body is solid gain, I will start the top chopping. I have decided to lay back the windshield area, and since the B pillar will be removed and replaced with curved framing, I may also make the doors wider by rescribing the lines. Onward through the fog, forward never straight! More pix when I get more done!

Warm enough today for a second coat of primer on the 62 GT Hawk as well (winter project).

Posted

Paul, I think adding some length to the doors is a great idea and leaning the windshield back is a good look for this car if it's not too severe. Cool project!

Posted

The top chop begins! I started by drilling two relief holes in each C pillar. Starting on the passenger side, I cut down where the rear window opening became horizontal. Next came scribing with my trusty mini saw, staying as parallel as possible to the drip molding. The next cut was to create the tapered cut to remove a curved wedge shape. Finally I cut free the rear of the window opening to preserve this for future use. Now for the driver's side!

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Posted

CHOPPED! Can't believe how well this turned out! The windshield area in particular is perfect on the first try, and the rear is square and level as well. The trunk, which was cut at the opening line to allow the top to lay down properly. This will take some thought and time to integrate properly, but still very promising. Everything tacked together with liquid styrene cement- after a final check I will start gluing my fingers, hopefully with some body parts, with super glue. BTW, the putty on the hood is because I sectioned the 40 hood instead of the 39 hood, so will recontour to match the 39 grille!

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  • Like 3
  • Paul Payne changed the title to AMT 1939 Ford tudor sedan chopped and sectioned
Posted (edited)

Looks awesome!!! Thanks for the different view 

I've tried this kit 2 times and failed trying to rep this car witch is heavily sectioned and channeled  and its not even chopped !! 

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Edited by milo1303s
Posted
27 minutes ago, milo1303s said:

Looks awesome!!! Thanks for the different view 

I've tried this kit 2 times and failed trying to rep this car witch is heavily sectioned and channeled  and its not even chopped !! 

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That's a great photo, Bob. It looks like it was being driven while the bodywork was being done. Anyone you know?

Posted

Made patch panels for the sail pillars after bending in the rear of the window openings using 0.010" x 0.060" stock. Lots of filling, blending and sculpting to do. Also laid in some stock in one wheel well- still needs sanding and blending- to cure a gap problem. Just for fun, decided to create a peak using 0.040 rod stock- this will be filled and blended and continued down the trunk lid.

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  • Like 1

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