dwc43 Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 14 hours ago, Oldriginal86 said: I understand how the suspension would bind, but does that mean all the gassers built here with ladder bars are wrong? Yes, any car, not just a gasser, that has ladder bars and leaf springs without floaters would be incorrect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwc43 Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 11 hours ago, Tony Coomer said: Thanks for the info. I never thought about the length but it makes since and the floaters would make since as well. I will take this knowledge and apply it to my next build… Welcome, anytime. Just thought you put so much effort into making springs and such that you might want to know about that. As for the long ladders, they are period correct for some builds, just depends on the era you are building it for. I know they have modern day gasser classes in some areas, and I know they made changes to those for safety, even though they want to build them as much by the old rules as possible too. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 11 hours ago, Tony Coomer said: ...But accurate is what I’m striving for. I’m only building fantasy or what is what if builds but if I’m doing it I want it to be accurate and to look like you can get in the car and drive it… That's what I thought when I saw the amount of effort and thought you'd put in so far, and that's why I offered some more information....and your approach is much like mine. I find that getting the technical details right, so the model would function for its intended purpose if it were scaled up to 1:1, is a large part of my "fun". 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobss396 Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 14 hours ago, FoMoCo66 said: Now it's got to be just right and accurate 🙄. Heaven forbid if the spark plug wires don't follow the firing order...😎 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwc43 Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 6 minutes ago, bobss396 said: Heaven forbid if the spark plug wires don't follow the firing order...😎 Absolutely. It never looks right if they are just thrown on there. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TECHMAN Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 There is another "factor" in the accuracy of your suspension work..... Year span..... A lot of the earliest "trick" set ups (as in early sixties or earlier) with the old gas classes, were not all that trick.... There were TONS of old gassers with ladder bars that were half the wheelbase used with leaf springs..... and yes, there were LOTS of them that would strand straight up coming off the line in 3000lb+ cars with little 265-283 inch motors.... And there were AA/FA with solid mount rear ends and in&out boxes for "trannys"..... When the racers "progressed" (as Bill pointed out) they came out with things like sliders, etc. And things got safer and faster 😊 Lotta good looking work going on there, keep it up!!!! DJ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Coomer Posted March 22 Author Share Posted March 22 (edited) On 3/21/2024 at 6:15 AM, M W Elky said: Go on line and check out pole cat decal’s he makes the Chrisman comet decals that you’re looking for plus a whole bunch of other great decals. I really like your build don’t sweat they small stuff it’s just a model that’s going to look great on your shelf. Thank you for the info on the Chrisman decals. Edited March 27 by Tony Coomer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 On 3/20/2024 at 4:37 PM, James2 said: I remember building model cars just for fun..... On 3/20/2024 at 4:48 PM, FoMoCo66 said: Now it's got to be just right and accurate 🙄. That is fun! If that's not fun, for you, great! Nobody says you have to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 On 3/20/2024 at 9:32 AM, Ace-Garageguy said: This build would most likely fall into a "gasser" class, if it has minimum required "street" equipment like lights, etc., and depending on the year you want to represent. Specific class is determined by engine displacement, whether or not it's supercharged, and vehicle weight. Or, if you want to run a gutted interior, and a little more setback on the engine, it could be an altered class racer. That's what I'm doing with a Badman, because I want to do an aluminum interior, and gassers had to run full upholstery, if I recall, correctly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirty Gringo Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 Great look build appreciate the sharing of it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 3 hours ago, Straightliner59 said: Or, if you want to run a gutted interior, and a little more setback on the engine, it could be an altered class racer. That's what I'm doing with a Badman, because I want to do an aluminum interior, and gassers had to run full upholstery, if I recall, correctly. Pository on the upholstery in gassers, minimum two seats and door panels, but lightweight f'glass buckets could be substituted. Far as engine setback goes, IIRC it was 10% of wheelbase allowed on gassers, 20% on altereds, measured at the front spark plug hole...at least I'm sure it was 20% on M/SP cars, which were eventually absorbed into altered classes. Links to actual period rules are posted at the top of this very forum heading. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Coomer Posted March 22 Author Share Posted March 22 (edited) 13 hours ago, TECHMAN said: There is another "factor" in the accuracy of your suspension work..... Year span..... A lot of the earliest "trick" set ups (as in early sixties or earlier) with the old gas classes, were not all that trick.... There were TONS of old gassers with ladder bars that were half the wheelbase used with leaf springs..... and yes, there were LOTS of them that would strand straight up coming off the line in 3000lb+ cars with little 265-283 inch motors.... And there were AA/FA with solid mount rear ends and in&out boxes for "trannys"..... When the racers "progressed" (as Bill pointed out) they came out with things like sliders, etc. And things got safer and faster 😊 Lotta good looking work going on there, keep it up!!!! DJ When I started this build I had a plan set that it would be one of those cars that showed up and they didn’t know what class to put it in. The engine set back came from Chrismans comet and the long ladder bars I made was from looking at lot of the early gasser class. I’m still researching on what I can class this as on the nitro slots page that Ace-Garageguy posted for me. It will be running a buick nailhead with a super charger, Enderle barn door injection and a in & out box. According to this page I’ve been reading it could be classed as a A/SX being 65 or older coupe or sedan that has been super charged and altered “pre funny car days”is what I’m seeing but I’m just grasping at straws at this point. When I get it all done and the body ready to paint you guys can see what I’m going for and try help me class this car out. I wanna run a number and class. I’m planning on building another one like this but a different car but I’m going to be a paying bit more close attention to the mistakes I made on this car and incorporate it into that car. Thanks for the comment, everyone’s knowledge is more than greatly appreciated as I’m driving to be correct in a far out way lol… Edited March 22 by Tony Coomer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sledsel Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 This is gonna be cool. I considered a project like this but being way incorrect using the an AMT AWB chassis. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott8950 Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 6 hours ago, Sledsel said: This is gonna be cool. I considered a project like this but being way incorrect using the an AMT AWB chassis. It's all about having fun and building what makes you happy. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TransAmMike Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 Well James, inaccuracies (if they are) aside this is a cool build. If you like the look just do it if it looks good to you. I like what you're doing and model on!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TransAmMike Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 (edited) Duplicate Edited March 23 by TransAmMike delete, duplicate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iBorg Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 First off, I really love the chassis work. This is a great beginning. Are your front shocks plastic built on top of brass? I trust you're wanting to have the car be as accurate as you can based upon the work you've already done. A bit about the rules. In the era in which car would have run, the 1960s, the two main sanctioning bodies were the NHRA and AHRA. Drag News, a weekly drag racing newspaper also promoted classes with a general set of rules for a challenge series. Number three on the Drag News List could challenge Numer One, etc. Due to the relationship with Hot Rod magazine and the NHRA, you need to research beyond HRM to learn about the AHRA classes and Drag News races. There were also local rules that are less known. Unless you scoot the motor back a bunch, this car would fall into the gasser class. That doesn't mean it couldn't run as an altered. Many gasser racers would look at their competition and move their car into the altered class. This was done with some cars by pulling the front end off a flip nose car or pulling out the passenger seat or removing the headlights. A S/X was mainly filled with fairly current cars often used A F/Xers. The car could easily be a gasser or altered. During the early and mid 60's, superchareged cars would be double lettered such as AA or BB/GS. With the weight of the 1949 Ford, this car would more than likely be a BB/GS if it has full gasser equipment or an altered. To be truly accurate, you need to choose a year, and check out the rules. For example in the early years, gassers had to have a full exhaust including muffler. It just wasn't hooked up. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 I have been perusing the '75 NHRA Rulebook, researching for a project. Then, altereds could have engine setback up to 25% of the wheelbase. I love the cars from the mid-'70s, so much, that it's surprising that I haven't memorized that rulebook! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 16 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said: Pository on the upholstery in gassers, minimum two seats and door panels, but lightweight f'glass buckets could be substituted. Far as engine setback goes, IIRC it was 10% of wheelbase allowed on gassers, 20% on altereds, measured at the front spark plug hole...at least I'm sure it was 20% on M/SP cars, which were eventually absorbed into altered classes. Links to actual period rules are posted at the top of this very forum heading. I thought I was remembering that correctly, but, I like to couch my words, because it makes it easier to get my foot out of my mouth, if I wasn't!😁 I was working on a MP '70 Chevelle ('75 rules). Those seats could be swapped out, but, they had to be from the same manufacturer as the car. I replaced the Chevelle seats with a pair from a Vega. That project died when I realized that I was essentially converting an AMT '70 Chevelle to a Revell '70 Chevelle! I've been through those rulebook files, quite a lot! They're very handy to have. I think I have pdfs of them, in this machine, somewhere. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Coomer Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 19 hours ago, iBorg said: First off, I really love the chassis work. This is a great beginning. Are your front shocks plastic built on top of brass? I trust you're wanting to have the car be as accurate as you can based upon the work you've already done. A bit about the rules. In the era in which car would have run, the 1960s, the two main sanctioning bodies were the NHRA and AHRA. Drag News, a weekly drag racing newspaper also promoted classes with a general set of rules for a challenge series. Number three on the Drag News List could challenge Numer One, etc. Due to the relationship with Hot Rod magazine and the NHRA, you need to research beyond HRM to learn about the AHRA classes and Drag News races. There were also local rules that are less known. Unless you scoot the motor back a bunch, this car would fall into the gasser class. That doesn't mean it couldn't run as an altered. Many gasser racers would look at their competition and move their car into the altered class. This was done with some cars by pulling the front end off a flip nose car or pulling out the passenger seat or removing the headlights. A S/X was mainly filled with fairly current cars often used A F/Xers. The car could easily be a gasser or altered. During the early and mid 60's, superchareged cars would be double lettered such as AA or BB/GS. With the weight of the 1949 Ford, this car would more than likely be a BB/GS if it has full gasser equipment or an altered. To be truly accurate, you need to choose a year, and check out the rules. For example in the early years, gassers had to have a full exhaust including muffler. It just wasn't hooked up. The shocks are made from round stock aluminum tube and rod, they function like real gas shocks and there is no glueing. I will do a how-to on them if anyone is interested. I Really like your imput on the different classes. I was striving for an early 60’s pre-funny/altered build but just couldn’t find a category it fit in, so I’m just stuck on course to finish this one as it started because everything is all fabricated and being painted. My next project I’m already researching and gathering parts for. Thanks for your input on the classes, everyone has been helpful as to pointing me in the right direction for different classes this could run in… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Coomer Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 (edited) Here are the gas shocks I made for this build, made out of aluminum round stock and rod. These are easy to make, fully functional and sturdy with out using any glue, you can polish them or paint them. If anyone is interested I can do a how-to on making these, they take a couple of hours to make a nice looking set… Edited March 24 by Tony Coomer 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iBorg Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 (edited) I'd be interested in your tutorial on the shocks. If it's an early 60's car, gasser is the safest class for it to fit into. Here's a HAMB page on shoebox Ford drag racers: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/drag-race-and-gasser-ford-shoebox-49-54-photos.1250342/ Edited March 24 by iBorg Added link 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobss396 Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 Shocks are a nice way to add realism to a project. I'd like to see how to make them from aluminum. I have been making them from styrene tubing, usually 3/32" with a piece of 3/64" brass rod. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Coomer Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 As I’m painting and assembling parts for this build I have been gathering parts for the next build. I will do a how to on the shocks for the next build… 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobss396 Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 I picked up some heim joints from Ron Coon Resins. I have to see how the stud portion goes into a piece of aluminum tubing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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