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1/16th Gordie Bonin BubbleUp Trans Am Funnycar


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5 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

Sorry to be late to the party but I'm toasting you! 🍺😁

If either one of us manages to traverse the miles (kilometers) between our provinces perhaps we can in person.

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19 hours ago, Ian McLaren said:

If either one of us manages to traverse the miles (kilometers) between our provinces perhaps we can in person.

I'm sure we'd have more than just a toast to share!  Let's live in hope, maybe it will happen one day, the time of my retirement is not that far away! 😁

In the meantime, this forum brings us closer together, thanks to web technology!

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On 4/29/2024 at 5:55 PM, John B. said:

Really nice work - I'm learning a lot from your build!

John thank you so much, I love it when I can help other modelers learn something  new or remind people of old tricks that still work.

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Posted (edited)

Setting the chassis and body aside for a bit to work on the LPH1320 Keith Black Hemi.  Constructed an Ed Pink style 14-71 blower and a vertex style Magneto, the block, heads and valve covers were as close as you can get right out of the package.

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Edited by Ian McLaren
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Back to the chassis and body support structures.Rear body retaining bracket built and attached , rear body support structure fabricated and installed temporarily (removeable for paints and other construction, front body stands fabricated and support bars added( also removable for further painting and tin work fabrication and installation).  Final ride height set ( a bit lower in the front). This just about wraps up the structural work. Now it's about adding the detailing items, tin , brackets, lines and hoses, drive train etc. Still a lot to do but the basic frame work is now set.  I'll post how the main supporting structure was fabricated shortly.

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I said I would show the process for the front tree supports.   Here it is.

Mounting the body Part 2
Starting on the front body mount structure (measurments based on 3/32 frame rails but the process is the same for any size) Main support posts are .093 in diameter which I fish mouthed to fit the 1/8th tubing that will form the saddles themselves, ID is the same as the OD of the frame rails. Next drill a .090 hole parallel to the notch ( it may be eisier to drill the hole first as aligning the notch to the hole is easier than the other way around). Next clean all of the pieces with 320 grit to promote solder adhesion. secure the now cleaned 1/8 tube in preparation for soldering as shown (I used aluminum furnace tape to hold the parts as is stands up to the heat of the process) Make sure to put flux on the areas where you are going to attach the support tubes. Cover the fished mouth end of the supports with flux (the tooth picks are to keep the solder out of the holes and also alignment guides). Solder the pieces together as shown and clean the joints. Then cut the saddle tube to release the supports, trim to size for width ( be carefull here as cutting and or grinding can heat the joint to the point the solder will melt). I used a disc sander to grind away the top half on the saddle tube (again be mindful of the heat) You now have a chassis stand that just needs to be cut to length to set the ride height. The photo show how I mount the supports to the body but you can choose you own path here. I use this method as it allows easy instaallation and removal that will be necessary throughout the res of the body mounting process. On final painting and assembly the plastic tubes on the body with be sanded down to scale for a proper bodymount plate. I hope this will be of  use for some of you. Next will be adding bracing and support bars to stablize the main support tubesIMG_0232.JPG.20ecec5e976ae0268eaef10e523c0b38.JPGIMG_0236.JPG.0ab20b28948c8160d4417a54414f4118.JPGIMG_0238.JPG.cbaa476cdac669c61850f0c1e9ae43a3.JPGIMG_0239.JPG.061ea571ecd0ead7c1249f4f051d3f29.JPGIMG_0242.JPG.d5875b4248911eb9e1dcc6c11c73ce35.JPGIMG_0244.JPG.efe3ca4e2b4876a970ab188da96311f2.JPGIMG_0246.JPG.e3d593c4e421f897468c6dcf230d94db.JPGIMG_0247.JPG.f3cd8cf92f5815c9108c25ef80b87e46.JPGIMG_0250.JPG.390057fec151818edd36057a37fa0034.JPGIMG_02721.JPG.c00b7d2c4c07142836fa7ba061c34982.JPG

 

 

Edited by Ian McLaren
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That's impressive work. That body support structure is the main reason I stick to dragsters!😃 Almost all my best drag racing friends are flopperheads. Most of the racers I've got to know best, over the years run FCs. I've always preferred dragsters. I think it's that they're just built for one thing. Funny cars were born out of showmanship, not the pure pursuit of speed and low ETs. I like funny cars, just fine, but, if I was a racer, it would be dragsters!

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