Tips for Repairing Broken Windshield Pillar

[In2Carz]

I have an original dealer promo model for the 1969 Ford Mustang.  This is an extremely rare and valuable collectible.  Unfortunately, one of the windshield pillars has been damaged (see pictures).  I have four questions.  Can this be repaired in such a way as to be unnoticeable when completed?  If it were your item, would you attempt to make the repair or leave it as is?  What would be the best way to repair this type of damage?  Presuming this repair is sufficiently difficult as to not be recommended for an amateur, where would recommend sending it to be repaired?

Thank you in advance for your assistance in this matter!

[iamsuperdan]

Good thing you still have the broken piece.

If it was mine, and I wanted to keep it in original condition, I would glue the piece back in place, using the bare minimum of glue.

The cracks would always be visible, but most probably wouldn't notice.

 

[Mark]

I'd put the pieces back, but unless the rest of the body is really trashed I wouldn't even think about repainting or anything remotely like it.

[Ace-Garageguy]

You need to practice your glue application technique prior to doing it, if it's not something you have already developed skill at.

I see most amateur "repairs" doing more harm than good usually.

Another thing...that generation of promo is probably ABS, which is a toughened version of kit-style polystyrene.

A solvent-type adhesive specifically made for ABS would be recommended, and again, you'll need to practice your application technique, as too much will inevitably spoil the "glass", or the surrounding material.

The typical "repair" I see on things like this ends up with poorly controlled blobs of tube-gloo or CA ("supergloo") making the damage look worse than if nothing had been done at all.

A well-done repair can be almost undetectable.

[Rick L]

25 minutes ago, iamsuperdan said:

Good thing you still have the broken piece.

If it was mine, and I wanted to keep it in original condition, I would glue the piece back in place, using the bare minimum of glue.

The cracks would always be visible, but most probably wouldn't notice.

 

Agree! Being a collectible, you should keep it as original as possible. Any collector would notice a total repair and it’s value would be lost.

[Mark]

I'd also consider bagging the pieces and tucking them into the interior until you have the confidence to dive into this repair.  Get experience on less valuable items first.  Like Ed Roth used to say: "don't mutilate, unless it's cheap!"

[bobss396]

You could back the broken pieces up with some thin (.010") styrene strip and let it overlap on the inside so it will be mostly concealed when put back. If you could find a junk body of the same color, make a replacement piece out of that.

[In2Carz]

Thank you gentlemen.  I will leave it as is for now, and practice on a few cheap models until I fee confident to try the repair.

[gotnitro?]

I'd repair the broken pillar w a UV glue pen. Tiny amount of glue, cure in seconds w UV light and done . Amazon sells them for around 5 dollars. 

I'm using one to repair 3d printed parts that normal " super glues" have difficulty bonding to,  works excellent 

[Ace-Garageguy]

1 hour ago, gotnitro? said:

I'd repair the broken pillar w a UV glue pen.

How does a UV-curing product cure inside a joint where UV can't reach it to initiate the reaction?

Edited April 4, 2024 by Ace-Garageguy

[gotnitro?]

39 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

How does a UV-curing product cure inside a joint where UV can't reach it to initiate the 

Similar to regular product. Apply the glue to the pillar, hold in place. Flip pen over where the light is..press a button to illuminate light holding it near the break...and it hardens  the material. JB weld sells one also

[gotnitro?]

https://www.walmart.com/ip/1PC-5-Second-Fixing-UV-Light-Repair-Tool-With-Glue-Super-Powered-Liquid-Plastic-Welding-Compound/440554611

Product I'm referring to 

[Warren D]

If it were me, I'd use white glue (Elmers) sparingly.  It is water soluble so in the future the repair could be re-done without damage to any of the parts.  Any overage can be removed with water.

[Ace-Garageguy]

22 hours ago, Warren D said:

If it were me, I'd use white glue (Elmers) sparingly.  It is water soluble so in the future the repair could be re-done without damage to any of the parts.  Any overage can be removed with water.

Best answer so far.

A removable repair that leaves no trace is vastly preferable to a half-..... permanent repair.

EDIT: One thing I can tell you...an absolutely undetectable repair CAN indeed be accomplished by someone with the requisite skills, including but not limited to color-matching paint for the pillar, and very fine airbrush work.

But the cost of such a repair at $35/hr, the absolute minimum anyone having said skills should work for, could very likely run to hundreds of dollars.

Considering I've seen an auction estimate of $3000, and a report of one actually selling for $1800 and change, that seems reasonable, but a bodged repair will significantly reduce the potential value.

Edited April 5, 2024 by Ace-Garageguy

[Pierre Rivard]

Canopy glue. Wipe off anything oozing out with a wet Q-tip and this way you can glue it to the glass without damaging it.

[Ace-Garageguy]

57 minutes ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Canopy glue. Wipe off anything oozing out with a wet Q-tip and this way you can glue it to the glass without damaging it.

Same thing as Elmer's, just costs more.

They're both PVA (polyvinyl acetate), are water soluble when wet, go on white, dry clear, and will peel off with no damage later.

[Pierre Rivard]

6 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Same thing as Elmer's, just costs more.

They're both PVA (polyvinyl acetate), are water soluble when wet, go on white, dry clear, and will peel off with no damage later.

Quite possibly Ace, you know that stuff better than me. It's just that I've had much better results with Canopy glue...

Maybe It's just in my mind. OK, gotta go, shrink appointment...?