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Posted

Chrome foil this small won't stick and my hand lettering is not good. Wondering about a decal source from other kits that might provide 'F O R D ' lettering for the hood. As far as that goes, hood / trunk lettering is usually an issue if a  p.e. set is not available. Ideas ?

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Posted

there's a current thread about aftermarket lettering sources.

something you might consider is using a pencil eraser dampened with paint (not dripping) and stamp each letter.

search for that thread; it has some good responses.

Q: is this a police car?  fog lights have piqued my curiosity; thanks.

  • Like 3
Posted

I have used the artist type colored pencils on similar situations. They make a bright silver. I sharpen it normally, touch it to my tongue to lightly moisten it, then go over the item to color with the side of the pencil tip.

  • Like 1
Posted

A lot of the current Ford kits have hood lettering decals. 

The AMT '66 Mustang GT had 2 sets on the sheet. IIRC, all the Moebius Ford pickups have hood lettering decals etc.

Also there are a lot of Model Car Garage PE sheets with the hood lettering. Doesn't have to be specifically for the '49 to have lettering that would work for that lettering.

  • Like 1
Posted
7 hours ago, sidcharles said:

there's a current thread about aftermarket lettering sources.

something you might consider is using a pencil eraser dampened with paint (not dripping) and stamp each letter.

search for that thread; it has some good responses.

Q: is this a police car?  fog lights have piqued my curiosity; thanks.

that's a good tip, I may try it. I added the fog lights 'cause I thought the car needed some color, they were a typical add on then.

  • Like 1
Posted

I think the best solution would have been to apply patch of Bare Metal foil to the lettering after the primer coat, then spray the top color, then remove the paint from the raised lettering exposing the metal foil.

There are members on this forum who have successfully done that and it looks really good. @StevenGuthmiller is one of them.

  • Like 3
Posted
6 hours ago, peteski said:

I think the best solution would have been to apply patch of Bare Metal foil to the lettering after the primer coat, then spray the top color, then remove the paint from the raised lettering exposing the metal foil.

There are members on this forum who have successfully done that and it looks really good. @StevenGuthmiller is one of them.

I too have used the foil UNDER paint method.

70 Grand Prix rear.jpg

GP RR 2.JPG

Posted

I'm not sure if you can really see the emblems below the taillights, here, but...I had intended to use the foil under paint to do them. I forgot the foil, before the paint. So...I foiled them, afterward, and trimmed them as closely as I could, then flowed some of my remaining paint around, and over the emblems. It actually worked out pretty well. It's difficult to tell that I was forgetful!:D

DSC_0161cr.jpg.7c757dbe49ae2c7b00ddcc115df08db6.jpg

Posted
16 hours ago, peteski said:

I think the best solution would have been to apply patch of Bare Metal foil to the lettering after the primer coat, then spray the top color, then remove the paint from the raised lettering exposing the metal foil.

There are members on this forum who have successfully done that and it looks really good. @StevenGuthmiller is one of them.

I’ve been using this method for many years and I have had great success.

Even the smallest scripts and badges can be done using this method, and once completed using foil, you have the added bonus of being able to detail small badges very intricately with paint.

Something that can be very difficult to do with markers, pens or paint brushes.

Just my opinion, but once you understand and master the “foil under paint” technique, there is not much else that even comes close.

 

773CA495-D6B5-4C5D-BD05-0A87D579622C.jpeg.611462b89cafe7b12d7dc2bb3b0c0929.jpegE63BD79C-7BC7-47CD-9562-4C46763EBE2D.jpeg.727e97ec9b4541a89b9969365fda1c80.jpegBBF7069A-F233-4A8C-871B-8C28A177DF55.jpeg.2e24ebc9ac07d9e8f53904408a327e65.jpeg15E3BAF6-B11D-4D91-823C-D8EA45B29886.jpeg.c8bf6c7792750571f688d978e8c1308f.jpeg3DA86746-904A-49F1-9C41-A44F040669C2.jpeg.aec53da30618bdd9fd69aa6ad4d4fc2e.jpegC777C50C-060C-45F3-A7CE-172A5842EAD4.jpeg.d59d6bf39f86e6b0c400c0c4c687e71f.jpegBCAF4215-8C4E-4213-B351-E650E0525327.jpeg.060bbc78a788c4fa79d663c12a5f7f85.jpeg577B4340-1BAC-40FB-A178-05931CA3D013.jpeg.b3313fb053155201220c4c8e2c0d0e6f.jpeg125396A7-C314-46CE-9693-8A8C70A15ADA.jpeg.6cc6f0062204c4de60086c24d5cca44a.jpegD27F0F87-F7EE-456A-A376-B58B8A4337A5.jpeg.90f8bd7a6e0108b7f600067049ecde55.jpegBAB0B1C4-547D-417A-BA85-E826C01B59E9.jpeg.86645eb6c23cc4483acd9c95aa6971c5.jpeg

 

 

Steve

 

  • Like 6
Posted
6 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I’ve been using this method for many years and I have had great success.

Even the smallest scripts and badges can be done using this method, and once completed using foil, you have the added bonus of being able to detail small badges very intricately with paint.

Something that can be very difficult to do with markers, pens or paint brushes.

Just my opinion, but once you understand and master the “foil under paint” technique, there is not much else that even comes close.

 

773CA495-D6B5-4C5D-BD05-0A87D579622C.jpeg.611462b89cafe7b12d7dc2bb3b0c0929.jpegE63BD79C-7BC7-47CD-9562-4C46763EBE2D.jpeg.727e97ec9b4541a89b9969365fda1c80.jpegBBF7069A-F233-4A8C-871B-8C28A177DF55.jpeg.2e24ebc9ac07d9e8f53904408a327e65.jpeg15E3BAF6-B11D-4D91-823C-D8EA45B29886.jpeg.c8bf6c7792750571f688d978e8c1308f.jpeg3DA86746-904A-49F1-9C41-A44F040669C2.jpeg.aec53da30618bdd9fd69aa6ad4d4fc2e.jpegC777C50C-060C-45F3-A7CE-172A5842EAD4.jpeg.d59d6bf39f86e6b0c400c0c4c687e71f.jpegBCAF4215-8C4E-4213-B351-E650E0525327.jpeg.060bbc78a788c4fa79d663c12a5f7f85.jpeg577B4340-1BAC-40FB-A178-05931CA3D013.jpeg.b3313fb053155201220c4c8e2c0d0e6f.jpeg125396A7-C314-46CE-9693-8A8C70A15ADA.jpeg.6cc6f0062204c4de60086c24d5cca44a.jpegD27F0F87-F7EE-456A-A376-B58B8A4337A5.jpeg.90f8bd7a6e0108b7f600067049ecde55.jpegBAB0B1C4-547D-417A-BA85-E826C01B59E9.jpeg.86645eb6c23cc4483acd9c95aa6971c5.jpeg

 

 

Steve

 

I followed Steve's advice on my 63 1/2 galaxie and can say that its a wonderful way to do it, turns out super clean.20251012_183303.jpg.4b92800716e002a90f865da96fac0c2e.jpg20251013_094527(1).jpg.26aa5e65bb602bd0a1f7e767503199f8.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
4 minutes ago, FoMoCo66 said:

I followed Steve's advice on my 63 1/2 galaxie and can say that its a wonderful way to do it, turns out super clean.20251012_183303.jpg.4b92800716e002a90f865da96fac0c2e.jpg20251013_094527(1).jpg.26aa5e65bb602bd0a1f7e767503199f8.jpg

I wish that I could take credit for this technique, but it’s been around much longer than I’ve been using it.

Honestly, it’s hard to imagine a better way of doing scripts.

Even if you can find the correct PE parts, if done right, the foil under paint technique is hard to beat.

 

 

Steve

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I've used the foil over primer trick for years.  Works for almost everything. The bright work on the front of this 1937 Seagrave is a combination of aluminum wire for the interior of the grill but BMF was used around the outside and for the extension of the grill at the bottom.  I painted the red over the BMF at the bottom and then gently removed the paint with a Q-tip and a small amount of thinner.017.jpg.8447d391a8711065fa2cfc723091615a.jpg100_1426.JPG.6840cbb1219637cb83bad0783d08c4c1.JPGDid the same on the Mack script on the 1/32 scale R model dump that I just finished.  Nice thing about doing script and badges is that you don't have to cut away every little nook or cranny.  Scribe the BMF with a new X-axto blade flush with the outside of the script and burnish it down good.  The paint will hide the edge of the foil nicely.

 

Edited by Chariots of Fire
  • Like 4
Posted
3 hours ago, Chariots of Fire said:

I've used the foil over primer trick for years.  Works for almost everything. The bright work on the front of this 1937 Seagrave is a combination of aluminum wire for the interior of the grill but BMF was used around the outside and for the extension of the grill at the bottom.  I painted the red over the BMF at the bottom and then gently removed the paint with a Q-tip and a small amount of thinner.Did the same on the Mack script on the 1/32 scale R model dump that I just finished.  Nice thing about doing script and badges is that you don't have to cut away every little nook or cranny.  Scribe the BMF with a new X-axto blade flush with the outside of the script and burnish it down good.  The paint will hide the edge of the foil nicely.

 

Your work is always such a joy, to view!

  • Like 1

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