How To Make Opening & Functional Doors, Hoods, and Trunks

[impcon]

Just wondering if anyone has ever posted a tutorial on installing opening doors on a build? I know that it is a tedious job but it's something that I would like to try to incorporate into some of my builds down the road. Any help will be appreciated.

[JamesW]

I don't think I've seen one here, but here's a tutorial from LIL.

Opening doors and trunks and hinging.

[MrObsessive]

Gary, pick up the Nov. '08 issue of MCM (can be ordered here). I wrote a pretty in depth article on how to open doors on models that have gooseneck hinges. In other words, hinges that make the door swing on the outside of the fender.

I can't remember if someone did a tutorial here, but I don't want to take money out of Gregg's pocket by hijacking the article on the board either.

When I get the time, I need to do one on doors that pivot on the inside of the fender. This time of the year, I don't have much time for building, let alone write lengthy articles!

Edited June 2, 2010 by MrObsessive

[Peter Lombardo]

The same hinges that open a door to the outside of the fender(older style cars)will also open a door into the fender(newer style cars).....just reverse the direction. In another words, the first, older style, has the hinge pivot point on the front fender side, the second, newer style, has the pivot point on the front edge of the door. It is more simple this way so that you can use the same style hinge to get either result.

[Greg Cullinan]

When I read the thread this is the first tutorial I thought of. It has good details for how to and supplies. Good luck

I don't think I've seen one here, but here's a tutorial from LIL.

Opening doors and trunks and hinging.

[Romell R]

After reading this I decieded to write a quick tut on the matter of the hinge I hope it helps you. you can find it here.How to make a correct hinge...

[fatkidd]

there have been a few how to's on here and elsewhere on the net regarding opening and hinging doors. i've got that part down fairly well.

my question is...

can someone do a how to for doing the actual door jambs?

i know how to add thickness to the door and door panel, i'm just insure about doing the actual door jambs. do i actually "join" the interior tub and the body? or do i make it appear that way?

could someone out there in the modeling world help me out?

thanks in advance for any help

[crazyjim]

Good one, Paul. I'd like to see that too! I'll betcha one of the resident experts here would be able to show us. Please?

[Darren B]

Im with both of you, plenty of tutorials on the actual hinging, and I too can do that but would also benefit from a tutorial on the door jams and door sills. or just a good point in the right direction for an all ready established tutorial on here somewhere!

[MoparWoman Jamie]

Well, it looks like either Romell or myself will have to show this trick. LOL

If you want to see mine sooner, look "on the work bench" area for a thread that reads something like Custom General Lee in the works.. well it's by me. You should see some of the door jams in that thread.

Mine sets on the shell inside walls and lets the interior tube slide past them. They can be attach to the tube though is I wanted them to.

[fatkidd]

Well, it looks like either Romell or myself will have to show this trick. LOL

If you want to see mine sooner, look "on the work bench" area for a thread that reads something like Custom General Lee in the works.. well it's by me. You should see some of the door jams in that thread.

Mine sets on the shell inside walls and lets the interior tube slide past them. They can be attach to the tube though is I wanted them to.

i looked through your thread and i see the jambs...

but i guess i'm too dense to look at a pic and figure it out. i don't necessarily need someone to "hold my hand along the way", i just need someone to show me a step by step so my little brain can understand. haha

[Darren B]

i looked through your thread and i see the jambs...

but i guess i'm too dense to look at a pic and figure it out. i don't necessarily need someone to "hold my hand along the way", i just need someone to show me a step by step so my little brain can understand. haha

Im with Paul here, looking at a finished model with give you an idea but when you see something from the beginning it actually helps you process if better.

[MikeMc]

Bill G....Mr "O" did an article last year on hinges and jambs.....I will dig it out!

[Darren B]

I remember that article had to dig it out to check it out again, (its nov 2008 issue #136) its a great article and he is a master builder, the only thing i have a hard time with is how the door jam meets the floor plan. The article was not specific about that, thats what im looking to figure out.

Edited August 18, 2010 by Darren B

[MikeMc]

I remember that article had to dig it out to check it out again, (its nov 2008 issue #136) its a great article and he is a master builder, the only thing i have a hard time with is how the door jam meets the floor plan. The article was not specific about that, thats what im looking to figure out.

Send Bill a PM or EMail......He will answer any questions for you!

[Mike Kucaba]

Why not look at an unbuilt model that has opening doors etc already and that may make things more clear?

[Darren B]

Why not look at an unbuilt model that has opening doors etc already and that may make things more clear?

You know what that is an excellent idea, never gave it a thought. That would work the only thing is I don't have one in the collection at the moment. What kits being produced currently have opening doors, it doesn't matter what year or make of car because if i can find one that would help seeing how they engineered it to butt up to the floorboard, thats my biggest issue right now.

Edited August 25, 2010 by Darren B

[torinobradley]

Another suggestion is to look at the real car your trying to replicate. That way you can see how the jambs and interior interact with each other. You can also see where the trim goes, where the striker, hinges, and other details. Everything else should only be a matter of cutting and layering plastic.

[Jason Vandergriff]

Heres some shots i took of my revell 57 chevy with all opening doors. Not a bad kit with some time but mines not done yet either.

[bobbyj]

the problem with looking at a kit with opening doors is the dont open properly. the front of the door opens outside the fiender. a lot of the cars early 60s late 50s open into the front fender. the way to do the part of the jamb where it meets the floor is to put the interior into the body and measure it out. cut some styrene to fit just to the floor but not quite over where the door panel sits. I to have a post up in on the bench it was just put up mr. norms dart i have plenty of jamb pics and if you have any questions or want to see more pics just let me know.

Bobbyj

[Foxer]

So far, I haven't seen what people do for the 3rd and 4th hands needed to use this method. I guess you could hold the body in a vice, but you'd need to be pretty careful to not gauge or crack the body when it has a lot of curvature.

[Guest]

I don't know why anyone would use the thread method when using the backside of an xacto blade is so much easier and provides a much smoother cut. A razor saw works better than an xacto knife. It cuts faster and smoother than the xacto knife. I still have to use the xacto on round corners.

[runs_12.2]

i have never heard of that but it sounds good but how are you supposed to do it on cars that have a top? maybe start it with a knife and than use thread. idk

[ewaskew]

Yea I tried this for about 10 seconds years ago and stuck with the knife method.

I do use a dremell tool on the inside of the body with a big cone shaped grinding stone.

[1] I hold the body up to the light and mark it inside where the door lines are.

[2] I follow the lines creating a grove,it is a little rough looking and takes practice

however if you don't get to deep,after you cut the lines from the outside

of the body you can sand the edges smooth,giving them a thinner real looking edge.

[hoopty388]

I learned this trick years ago. used it ever since. the trick is move back and forth fast enough to melt the plastic but not so fast that it makes the plastic "gooey".found it works best on trunk lids and sunroofs. Is an advantage over "backkniving" on things like sunroofs or half - doors, where you don't have a groove to start with. sure many will disagree, but just my $.02. I believe there is a time and place for everything. If you say "I'll NEVER use that!" you only limit your abilities.