Zoom Zoom Posted May 20, 2010 Posted May 20, 2010 I'm really diggin' mine, all told, but my biggest issue ultimately doesn't concern axles or complete engines so much. It has to do with the lack of any radiator/core support detail. How this pans out from the engine bay, I won't be able to determine till I've built mine or until Bob comments on that specifically. But have a look at the photo model on the instruction sheet, and you'll see for sure what you begin to suspect in your initial mock-up: that nice little little photoetched lower grille screen gives you a straight-on view of the boss you glue in to screw the front of the chassis down. After dealing with several recent Fujimi and Aoshima kits which are sure to back their see-thru screens with some kind of detail, that's the most serious letdown in this kit for me. Unless you give this model an IPMS-style magnified penlight enema, everything looks fine. Everything behind the mesh is black, you aren't meant to see anything there. The screw boss is only seen if you try too hard to see it. When the hood is off and you look down on the model from behind, you will see daylight through the area where the radiator & support would be. If you look at the engine normally, from the front, nothing seems awry.
Luc Janssens Posted May 20, 2010 Posted May 20, 2010 :D How did you get yours, via mail order or local hobby shop? I pre-ordered one with HW Japan, but nothing has been send yet.
Chuck Kourouklis Posted May 20, 2010 Posted May 20, 2010 Just curious...review sample, or paid at the LHS? LHS paid, Mark. KILLER commentary on material envy elsewhere, btw. One of the best posts I've seen about anything.
crispy Posted May 20, 2010 Posted May 20, 2010 How did you get yours, via mail order or local hobby shop? I pre-ordered one with HW Japan, but nothing has been send yet. Luc, Don't feel bad, I too am waiting for HW Japan to get my order sent out. I'm sure you read that the US got the kit before our Japanese friends did? All the same, to me this kit is surely worth waiting for. I'm ready with my paint. I might have to purchase another kit though. I see one in my future which is black, the car,not my future! Chris
Zoom Zoom Posted May 20, 2010 Posted May 20, 2010 Tower Hobbies is selling the DBS for $53 ... plus shipping, natch. It would nice if Hobby Lobby carried this kit so one could snag it with a 40 percent coupon! Hobbylinc has it for $50.09, Model Roundup has it for $49.90. There are probably better deals yet. They're backordered at Stevens Int'l. I ordered a Fujimi 458 Italia for 20% off (3040 yen vs. 3800 yen) from Hobby Search, just about $33 and another $10 or so to ship. Should ship in a week or so.
crispy Posted May 20, 2010 Posted May 20, 2010 A great time to be an exotic's builder. Such great things coming out. Nice price Bob. I'm starting to see all the Japanese sellers are really fighting with prices. Time to shop around for the deals again. HW Japan used to be my cheapest source, but everyone seems to be jockeying pricing. Chris
Chuck Kourouklis Posted May 20, 2010 Posted May 20, 2010 Mmhmm. Decided to leave my HLJ order alone; got someone who kinda digs the car and might want a finished model of her own. Far as the radiator thing goes, I'm sure some strategically trimmed and applied black card stock would leave nobody the wiser. It's just that there are those who'd sourly maintain that a $65+ kit (or even %50+) should pass an IPMoscopy with flying colors - and I'd be a bit hard-pressed to dispute the point.
Zoom Zoom Posted May 20, 2010 Posted May 20, 2010 It's just that there are those who'd sourly maintain that a $65+ kit (or even %50+) should pass an IPMoscopy with flying colors - and I'd be a bit hard-pressed to dispute the point. You are correct, there are those kinds of people, and if it bothers anyone that much, they are perfectly within their rights not to buy it. We all have our limits to what is or is not acceptable, and we all make those decisions personally.
crispy Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 Do i see a prominent mold line on the body? That's sort of out of character for Tamiya. 'Tis no matter though, I'll have fun cleaning it up anyway.... Thanks for the great parts breakdown.Best ones I've seen., Chris
sjordan2 Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 Thank you for these extremely nice and detailed pictures. This information should be very helpful in making decisions about buying and building this kit.
Zoom Zoom Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 Do i see a prominent mold line on the body? That's sort of out of character for Tamiya. 'Tis no matter though, I'll have fun cleaning it up anyway.... Thanks for the great parts breakdown.Best ones I've seen., Chris Ditto. I too wondered why the prominent mold line that wasn't as cleverly hidden as usual. The photo shown here made me realize why. If they had split the tool along the edge of the C pillar and along the trunk lid line, as usual, the downside would have been that the fuel door engraving would be compromised, it would have had to be very faintly engraved for the tool to pull back out to the side. As with every kit, compromises must be made. Most people would find it easier to blocksand the mold lines (and they are easy to access with normal tools) than to re-engrave or scribe an elliptical fuel door without damaging the body.
Duntov Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 This post and the pictures that are with are VERY helpful.......it sets the standard for what (I think) we should see in this part of the board......good job and thank you for posting an excellent view of this kit. Regards Bill (Duntov)
Chuck Kourouklis Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 (edited) Actually, yeah. Looking over the body and considering it, it's almost as if the lines are presented for the most straightforward removal possible. That would seem perfectly consistent with the body shell sinkmark-control measures they've taken, which are unusual even for Tamiya. Edited May 21, 2010 by Chuck Kourouklis
Harry P. Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 Ditto. I too wondered why the prominent mold line that wasn't as cleverly hidden as usual. The photo shown here made me realize why. If they had split the tool along the edge of the C pillar and along the trunk lid line, as usual, the downside would have been that the fuel door engraving would be compromised, it would have had to be very faintly engraved for the tool to pull back out to the side. Or the fuel filler door could have been a separate piece, the mold split differently and the seam line eliminated altogether.
jbwelda Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 thanks for posting those pics...i agree, thats how this section should be! but why left hand steering? its a brit car after all...and i personally like to build cars to their domestic market standard. that said i will not be making it right hand drive! thanks again for the sneak peek!
Zoom Zoom Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 Or the fuel filler door could have been a separate piece, the mold split differently and the seam line eliminated altogether. Nope. Look where the fuel door is, it is molded on an upper horizontal surface, not a vertical side surface. Whether they engraved a line around it (as was done) or left it as a hole to receive a separate part, or recessed the area to accept a separate part, it would still create the exact same problem. The fuel door being on an upper surface is the reason the mold is split in the fashion we see, it has to be part of the upper part of the mold moves vertically, not the side parts that move horizontally. Looks to me like Tamiya did the best they could with this detail. I guess they could have made the mold asymmetrical so that the other side of the model had a more natural mold line, but you'd still be block sanding the driver's side and you still have mold lines to remove regardless, so again I think Tamiya did the best they could.
Harry P. Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 You're right. Separate part or not, same problem would exist.
Matt Bacon Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 (edited) it's almost as if the lines are presented for the most straightforward removal possible. "almost as if"? I think we should give them the credit where it's due... Tamiya's 1/32 Spitfire IX (which I have in the "build pile" right now) is just FULL of examples of incredibly careful thought about parts breakdown, sprue layout, sprue gate locations, ejector pins, potential sink marks and the rest. I think we can assume that the mould separation line is where it is because that's the easiest place to clean it up, and that it's "prominent" because that, actually, makes it easier to see clearly and to remove. I suspect that a careful "shave" with a new #10 blade and a polish may get rid of it without even needing much sanding... I shall see when mine arrives - it's left Japan this morning, apparently! bestest, M. Edited May 21, 2010 by Matt Bacon
Zoom Zoom Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 I suspect that a careful "shave" with a new #10 blade and a polish may get rid of it without even needing much sanding... I shall see when mine arrives - it's left Japan this morning, apparently! bestest, M. I was hoping that was the case, but it definitely required block sanding to level out, it's not a tiny web of material but just enough of a slight mismatch of the top/sides of the mold. It's easy to blocksand and no filler is required on this part of the body. I did use a little filler at the top edge of the trunklid where a small filler piece is added between the taillight panel and the edge of the spoiler. That one seems odd to me, haven't figured out why that ended up a separate part. If I study it long enough it might make sense...or I could build something else and not worry over it. Squish it in w/enough liquid cement and you'll probably not need any filler, it's a fairly tight fit.
bluemoose Posted May 21, 2010 Posted May 21, 2010 outstanding photography! thanks for shooting and posting. With some fresh 800 paper, and a fair amount of time, I was able to kill that mold line with no damage to the fuel door.
crispy Posted May 22, 2010 Posted May 22, 2010 Hey guys, Thanks for your insight on the kit and molding process. I have no clue how these kits get molded. I will agree that it appears to be an easy straightforward "problem" to fix. As you guys mention it seems the easiest solution to the dilemma at the time. Easy. Andy, Look forward to seeing yours. I suspect it will be built and two models down before I get mine!! Chris
MyBradKeselowski Posted May 22, 2010 Posted May 22, 2010 Thanks for the great pictures. Couldn't wait for somebody to open one up and start giving this kit a try. I love those tires
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