MrObsessive Posted March 22, 2011 Posted March 22, 2011 Mike, if it were me------I'd barrier it to death with Future Floor Wax (Pledge with Future Shine) and then primer and paint. That should cure the score line from showing through again!
dwc43 Posted March 22, 2011 Posted March 22, 2011 I was thinking if you filled it from both sides you might be able to save it. Hope so. Would live to see the final build, you do good work.
Jantrix Posted March 22, 2011 Posted March 22, 2011 (edited) I was thinking if you filled it from both sides you might be able to save it. Hope so. Would live to see the final build, you do good work. Agreed. The best way I have found to fill those grooves in the underside is with some appropriate size round stock in the grooves, then add a lil too much Tenax, where it softens up the stock and then mash it into the groove once it's soft. Considering how thin the hood is in those grooves on yours Mike, too much Tenex might do more harm than good, but still Tenax and round or half round stock is your best bet. Edited March 22, 2011 by Jantrix
mrmike Posted March 22, 2011 Author Posted March 22, 2011 Thank you guys for the support and the suggestions. I really appreciate it. I think I need to push this on aside for a day or two to consider my options on how I want to proceed. This is where a second project comes in handy and I can keep my hands busy until I am ready to resume this project. To have the paint on the hood go south on me like this has taken my enthusiasm away for this project, so I'll come back to it later. Thanks again!
Jantrix Posted March 22, 2011 Posted March 22, 2011 Well it IS a Mopar. So in a pinch you can always paint the hood semi-gloss black and everyone will think you planned it that way all along.
mrmike Posted March 22, 2011 Author Posted March 22, 2011 Rob, this is true, but I want to do the Performance Hood Treatment and part of the hood has the body color on it. Give me a day or two so I can restart with a fresh approach.
roadhawg Posted March 23, 2011 Posted March 23, 2011 I had the same exact problem when I built my '68 GTX. My fix was to fill that scored groove with baking soda/superglue, the use Future as a barrier...like Mr. O suggested, then prime and sand a few times. Worked great.
oldscool Posted March 23, 2011 Posted March 23, 2011 That isn't the only AMT kit with this issue. I wish they would just give us two different hoods like Revell does. With your skills I'm sure it can be fixed. gus
george 53 Posted March 23, 2011 Posted March 23, 2011 Mike, IF I remember CORRECTLY, (which IS hard for me) the 68 RR had a small SQUARE area the incluced BOTH scoops and thats it. The painted area was only large enough to cover BOTH scoops, from side to side, and only the length of the scoops. The TWIN flat black hoodstripes from windsheild to front hood edge didn't come along till the 69 RR. Soooo, just tape off a squre that includes both scoops, from side to side, an from the front of the scoops to the rear of them and you'll be good to go. Not a hard trick to do at all. HOPE this helps. ;)
mrmike Posted March 23, 2011 Author Posted March 23, 2011 Thanks guys! I have seen this score on other AMT kits over the years and I have largely ignored it and just built the model. Now, I have used a chemically hot paint and must deal with the outcome that has been handed to me. I have the other hood and I may fill the score on that and paint it. We shall see... Mike, IF I remember CORRECTLY, (which IS hard for me) the 68 RR had a small SQUARE area the incluced BOTH scoops and thats it. The painted area was only large enough to cover BOTH scoops, from side to side, and only the length of the scoops. The TWIN flat black hoodstripes from windsheild to front hood edge didn't come along till the 69 RR. Soooo, just tape off a squre that includes both scoops, from side to side, an from the front of the scoops to the rear of them and you'll be good to go. Not a hard trick to do at all. HOPE this helps. Thanks George! That is the paint treatment that I was going for until my issue with the hood arose. Right now, my enthusiasm for this project has gotten up and left me, so I'll come back to it later. It's still on the bench, I'm just not working on it right now.
W117monte Posted March 23, 2011 Posted March 23, 2011 Build another chevy model they are easier to work on anyways in 1:25 or 1:1.
oldscool Posted March 23, 2011 Posted March 23, 2011 Mike, IF I remember CORRECTLY, (which IS hard for me) the 68 RR had a small SQUARE area the incluced BOTH scoops and thats it. The painted area was only large enough to cover BOTH scoops, from side to side, and only the length of the scoops. The TWIN flat black hoodstripes from windsheild to front hood edge didn't come along till the 69 RR. Soooo, just tape off a squre that includes both scoops, from side to side, an from the front of the scoops to the rear of them and you'll be good to go. Not a hard trick to do at all. HOPE this helps. Do you mean like this? gus
mrmike Posted March 23, 2011 Author Posted March 23, 2011 Do you mean like this? gus That's exactly what it is!
dwc43 Posted March 23, 2011 Posted March 23, 2011 Build another chevy model they are easier to work on anyways in 1:25 or 1:1. Not really, just cheap and requires more work.
sak Posted March 23, 2011 Posted March 23, 2011 This thing is going to be badass !!!! I love the technique with the rear window molding. I have a amt 66 nova with this problem. Thank you.
mrmike Posted March 24, 2011 Author Posted March 24, 2011 My fix for the lack of trim around the rear window seemed to be a rather easy fix. Just something for the foil to grab onto. Right now I am thinking about prepping the second hood for paint by filling in the score line under the hood and sanding smooth the top of the hood since the score line shows on top as well.
mrmike Posted March 25, 2011 Author Posted March 25, 2011 Well, my curiosity got the better of me and I decided to play a hunch. I filled one of the scores with Testors Liquid Cement. Then I took a piece of sheet styrene and placed it inside the score. After a couple of minutes, the glue softened the styrene and I pushed it into the score level with the surface and allowed it to harden. This should take care of the thin plastic and block some of the heat from the paint from getting through. More to come.....
Clay Posted March 25, 2011 Posted March 25, 2011 Great job so far mike! by the way could you take a picture of your booth? If there already is one, point me in that direction. I am in a new rental and don't want to get paint on anything.
spkgibson Posted March 25, 2011 Posted March 25, 2011 (edited) Well, my curiosity got the better of me and I decided to play a hunch. I filled one of the scores with Testors Liquid Cement. Then I took a piece of sheet styrene and placed it inside the score. After a couple of minutes, the glue softened the styrene and I pushed it into the score level with the surface and allowed it to harden. This should take care of the thin plastic and block some of the heat from the paint from getting through. More to come..... The best way to fix somthing like this is to Mix up Super Glue and Baby powder, to the consistancy of testors tube glue, Then with a toothpick flow it into the recess, And when it drys it's hard as a rock, and then Put a light glaze of your favorite body putty,On the topside of the hood, I always use the Bondo Spot filler type, The one part, I have always had great results with that stuff, The 2 part also works great, You can sand that type after about 20 to 30 minutes. Think of what you're doing as filling a sinkhole. Try it that way, And you should be able to save that hood, I would suggest that you strip the entire hood, Use that method I just explained , And you should have no problems at all with it. I do that to every hood I have with those score lines underneith them, I haven't had any issues with them so far.Liquid Cement is the worst thing you can use, As it will eat through the hood or warp it beyond repair. It will do what I call potato chipping. In other words curl up like one, even if its flat, A few months down the road it will change shape.And curl up, I used to have that happen all the time,Untill I learned how to use the method I explained to you, I hope this helps, This is to nice of a build you have going to have the hood mar it. Edited March 25, 2011 by spkgibson
mrmike Posted March 25, 2011 Author Posted March 25, 2011 So Steve, are you telling me that I should rip out all the styrene I put into the score? I think that would make quite the mess of the hood and in my mind, not worth the effort. I do thank you for the suggestion, but I think it is a little too late for it now. So far, I have about one hour invested in this hood and I am going to forge ahead with my repairs to it. If the hood curls a couple of months down the road, then I'll replace it with the other hood I have in my parts box. Again, I do thank you for the suggestion.
spkgibson Posted March 25, 2011 Posted March 25, 2011 So Steve, are you telling me that I should rip out all the styrene I put into the score? I think that would make quite the mess of the hood and in my mind, not worth the effort. I do thank you for the suggestion, but I think it is a little too late for it now. So far, I have about one hour invested in this hood and I am going to forge ahead with my repairs to it. If the hood curls a couple of months down the road, then I'll replace it with the other hood I have in my parts box. Again, I do thank you for the suggestion. Not a problem ,Glad to help, even if you use the method in the future.
mrmike Posted March 26, 2011 Author Posted March 26, 2011 I started working on the engine by adding a fuel line to the carbs. I also added heater hoses, the alternator, fan belt, and fan assmbly, transmission, and exhaust manifolds. I drilled out the distributor and added plugs wires. I need to make a coil and coil wire. More to come.....
mrmike Posted March 27, 2011 Author Posted March 27, 2011 Well, I made another offering to the carpet gremlins that reside in my model cave! I realized that the shaft on the distributor was not long enough for mounting the distributor nor is there really a spot for the distributor anywhere on the front of the engine. I removed the wires from the cap and drilled out the bottom for a longer shaft made from a piece of 1/8 styrene rod. I placed the rod on my bench to cut a piece off and the distributor went flying off the bench and onto the carpet. I searched for it, but it was gone. A trip into my parts box produced a distributor from a Revell kit that is better detailed and has a longer shaft. The carpet gremlins can have the other distributor! The doghouse is together. I forgot to add the subframe to the chassis pan, so this will be getting some overspray. More to come.....
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