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Posted

I don't understand your explanation. but I do know that the real car doesn't have giant holes there for the passenger to put their foot through... B)

There are protruding bulgy things on the firewall, the backside of the firewall is the front of the interior..remember, this is a platform-style kit interior, not a tub-style.

Posted

There are protruding bulgy things on the firewall, the backside of the firewall is the front of the interior..remember, this is a platform-style kit interior, not a tub-style.

I understand that the backside of the firewall is the front of the interior.

My point is, those holes are incorrect, they don't exist on the real car and they should be filled.

I guess I wasn't being blunt enough...

Posted

I understand that the backside of the firewall is the front of the interior.

My point is, those holes are incorrect, they don't exist on the real car and they should be filled.

I guess I wasn't being blunt enough...

Yeah, they could be filled..but they probably can't be seen once the kit is assembled.

Posted

Yeah, those notches in the floor are VERY visible even after the car is built. They're quite noticable even in dark colors. Next one of these I build, I'm gluing some .030" styrene sheet over the back side of the firewall to cover them. :unsure:

Posted

Roger and Jim, I have had some luck clearing over foil. Right now, it seems to be working for me just as long as I go very easy on the clear. I really like using Tamiya gloss clear as it goes on smooth and seems to be self-leveling. My luck with Testors clear has not been good and I prefer not to use it.

Hopefully you'll be OK using the Tamiya Mike. The two models I did looked good for a while also,but after time the Testors yellowed badly. I've heard that Tamiya doesn't yellow over time,but I'm still a little skeptical. Looking forward to seeing this one finished!

Posted

This whole thing with the firewall has left me feeling a bit unsettled. I did a mock up with the body and I cannot see the holes in the firewall. So, any attempt at filling or covering them may result in some type of damage to the interior and I don't want to risk that. I tried my best at an explanation. Sorry if you don't understand.

Posted

Hopefully you'll be OK using the Tamiya Mike. The two models I did looked good for a while also,but after time the Testors yellowed badly. I've heard that Tamiya doesn't yellow over time,but I'm still a little skeptical. Looking forward to seeing this one finished!

Testors is GUARANTEED to yellow over time- I'd never use it over foil! Can't speak for the Tamiya but most of the automotive clears I've used are okay. On a car like this with so much intricate chrome trim, I'd certainly want to seal over it with a clear coat, just for added protection.

This whole thing with the firewall has left me feeling a bit unsettled. I did a mock up with the body and I cannot see the holes in the firewall. So, any attempt at filling or covering them may result in some type of damage to the interior and I don't want to risk that. I tried my best at an explanation. Sorry if you don't understand.

They are pretty visible once the interior is done, but they're hard to see from most angles, and the passenger's side one is WAY worse. The last one I built, I tried filling the slots with putty, but trust me- you DON'T want to do that! :D For whatever reason, the putty popped loose during final assembly, ripping right through the paint and flocking... :lol: That's why I'm going to try putting styrene sheet over them next one I build, though I'm not sure how that would effect how the firewall fits to the interior.

Posted

They are pretty visible once the interior is done, but they're hard to see from most angles, and the passenger's side one is WAY worse. The last one I built, I tried filling the slots with putty, but trust me- you DON'T want to do that! :blink: For whatever reason, the putty popped loose during final assembly, ripping right through the paint and flocking... :lol: That's why I'm going to try putting styrene sheet over them next one I build, though I'm not sure how that would effect how the firewall fits to the interior.

If you use very thin sheet styrene you'll be ok. Heck, even a piece cut from an index card would do the job.

...that's a first....

:D

David G.

I say what I mean and mean what I say. Not a big fan of P.C. doubletalk. ;)

Posted

Thanks Dr. Cranky! I got my Cranky brand vitamins and took a bunch! I'm feeling better already!

Finally back to the bench! I painted the scripts with Testors Gold enamel.

Starliner28.jpg

Starliner29.jpg

Then I got the body into the paint booth for two coats of clear. Not shown is the hood which also got two coats of clear.

Starliner30.jpg

More to come...

Posted (edited)

Thank you Mr. Most and Mr. Harry! The clear really brought out the color and now that I can see it all nice and shiny, I think it looks great!

Edited by mrmike
Posted

Oh, yeah! The white top is what seals the deal. ;)

One last thing aboot the slots in the firewall, then I'll shut up about it for good- I was checking out my built Starliner today, the slots on mine might be visible because it appears the floor isn't quite up in the body all the way, even though the dash is right up against the windshield as it should be. All I can guess is the floor came loose later and pulled the firewall down a bit with it. So... the reason I can see them on mine might be due to a little bit of 'operator error'. B)

Posted

Chuck, the interior floor may be warped and pulled the interior down and leaving the side panels and dash against the windshield. Are you going to straighten it out? It'll require taking the model apart. Not good news, but it can be done. Anyway, thanks for you input and replies!

Posted

Looking good. That blue looks pretty similar to one i used in my `57 Chevy. I didnt clear coat it becouse i wanted quick out of box build. Looks very good when cleared. Well next time i use clear too. :)

Posted

Chuck, the interior floor may be warped and pulled the interior down and leaving the side panels and dash against the windshield. Are you going to straighten it out? It'll require taking the model apart. Not good news, but it can be done. Anyway, thanks for you input and replies!

Nope- the one in question is staying the way it is! It's a pretty good representation of how I built models six or seven years back. The next one I'll put a little more effort into!

Posted

Nope- the one in question is staying the way it is! It's a pretty good representation of how I built models six or seven years back. The next one I'll put a little more effort into!

Chuck, I agree! I look at the models I have built in the past and realize that I need to improve on certain areas. Sometimes, I'll pull one off the shelf and rebuilt it. I now have a few ideas for some of my models sitting on the shelf that are in need of some refubishment.

Posted

Last night I polished the body and hood with Meguiars Scratch X and tonight the I glued the body to the chassis. In order to get the front of the body positioned correctly and glued, I removed the radiator core and support and used a couple of my special clothespins to clamp the front of the body down.

Starliner33.jpg

With the hood on.

Starliner32.jpg

I still like the stance!

Starliner31.jpg

More to come...

Posted (edited)

WOW!

That looks great, Mike. I am curious though, how do you propose to re-insert the core support?

Charlie Larkin

One of the great things about these old cars, is that there is plenty of room to work on it. Luckily, the support wasn't glued in too securely and I was able to wiggle it out. It just slides in between the fenders without hitting anything along the way. I'm hoping to have the Starliner finished this weekend.

Edited by mrmike
Posted

My '60 Starliner is complete and posted Under Glass. I would like to thank all those who took the time to comment and to view my WIP.

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