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1960 Ford Starliner


mrmike

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I added the wheels and tires to the chassis and did a mockup to check the stance, particulairly the front suspension.

Starliner19.jpg

This is exactly where I wanted the front wheels and tires! It is a good thing I decided to invert the spindles.

Starliner20.jpg

I broke out the airbrush and painted the interior the main color of Federal Standard Blue. The accent color will be Insignia Blue.

Starliner21.jpg

More to come...

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Nice, Mike.

I've had a devil of a time finding Gelly Roll pens. It seems none of the big chains here carry them anymore, and we don't have any independent stationers anymore, at least within a reasonable distance.

Where did you find yours?

Charlie Larkin

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Nice, Mike.

I've had a devil of a time finding Gelly Roll pens. It seems none of the big chains here carry them anymore, and we don't have any independent stationers anymore, at least within a reasonable distance.

Where did you find yours?

Charlie Larkin

I found mine at Michaels. I had heard that they were not stocked any longer due to the ink drying out inside the pens. So far, I have not had that issue.

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I started painting the accent color onto the seats and side panels this morning.

Starliner22.jpg

After painting the side panel details and allowing them to dry, I assembled the interior.

Starliner23.jpg

A shot of the dash.

Starliner24.jpg

More to come...

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  • 2 weeks later...

It has been about 1 1/2 weeks since I did anything on this WIP. Today, I tackled a big hurdle on this kit...foiling! There is a lot of chrome trim on this one and it took me about 1 1/2 hours to do it. I have a couple of small spots to take care of and it'll be 100% foiled.

Starliner25.jpg

Starliner26.jpg

Starliner27.jpg

More to come...

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Just a quick note; the fender scripts and the one on the trunk, plus the stars on the C pillar were an anodized gold finish on the 1:1. If I recall, there was a light blue paint in the center of the stars. If the foil doesn't work out for those small areas, gold paint will work well. The lower part of the "S" on the trunk Starliner script should be solid; it was a swiveling cover for the trunk lock. My avatar says it all, lol! Love your work on this.

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Thanks Jim! The one thing that is bothering me is the color of the stars. You say that they are gold plated and every picture and resource I have looked at shows them to be silver or chroem plated with a light blue center. I am unable to find a good picture of the C-pillar with the stars. Can you supply me with one? If not, then I'll just go with chrome and the blue center. Thanks.

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Here's a link from Hemmings Classic Car magazine; it's hard to tell the star finish from these photos. I wish there were more detailed pics, but here's what they had.

http://www.hemmings.com/hcc/stories/2009/07/01/hmn_feature6.html

They very well could have been chrome. My 1:1 Sunliner clearly didn't have them!

Edited by Jim Gibbons
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Looking at Ian's picture of the '61 Starliner stars makes me think that they were indeed, chrome, rather than gold. You'd be safe leaving them as is. I guess 1960 was the only year they had the blue paint in the center. That's why I love '50's, early '60s cars; when you look at the detailing, castings, etc., it reminds you of a time when designers ruled. Cool stuff.

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Thanks guys! It is amazing how much of a change is made when foil is applied. I'll buff the foil to a brilliant shine and then it is off to the paint booth for clearcoat.

It's looking real nice Mike! Makes me want to give a factory stock build a try. I gotta ask what kind of clear do you use? A few years ago, I made the mistake of clearing over the foil on a couple of builds with Testors and it ruined them as the clear yellowed. I actually ended up stripping one of them because it made such a mess trying to get the foil back off. The clear chipped badly along the edges of the foil and it was a black model. I scrapped the other one. I never have dared to clear over foil again.

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It's looking real nice Mike! Makes me want to give a factory stock build a try. I gotta ask what kind of clear do you use? A few years ago, I made the mistake of clearing over the foil on a couple of builds with Testors and it ruined them as the clear yellowed. I actually ended up stripping one of them because it made such a mess trying to get the foil back off. The clear chipped badly along the edges of the foil and it was a black model. I scrapped the other one. I never have dared to clear over foil again.

Myself, I never clear over foil. As a matter of fact, I only clear over metallic paints before I polish. I feel that non- metallic finishes look more realistic after polishing without clear; that's just my own opinion. Factory cars never had a finish that made you want to dive into it like a swimming pool. Foil is the last thing I apply, and then I use a model wax such as the Treatment or Tamiya's stuff over it. Again, these are just my own thoughts; many folks here could prove me wrong! B)

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Jim, that is the one thing that I have been screaming at Detroit about for some time. Bring back the stylists and designers...engineers can't design a car that the public really wants.

What's up with that big hole in the passenger side floorboard? B)

That is the firewall. The hole is also on the drivers side. On the engine compartment side, that "hole" or outreach is over a frame mount for the body.

Roger and Jim, I have had some luck clearing over foil. Right now, it seems to be working for me just as long as I go very easy on the clear. I really like using Tamiya gloss clear as it goes on smooth and seems to be self-leveling. My luck with Testors clear has not been good and I prefer not to use it.

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That is the firewall. The hole is also on the drivers side. On the engine compartment side, that "hole" or outreach is over a frame mount for the body.

I don't understand your explanation. but I do know that the real car doesn't have giant holes there for the passenger to put their foot through... B)

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