qmhd Posted December 12, 2011 Posted December 12, 2011 (edited) Since it's been a while I haven't posted anything (too much work) I wanted to try building something fun and unconstrained So here is my new project based on the well known Revell's Ford 32 I'll use the 32 body + firewall and the optional dashboard but my goal is try to use as many spare parts as possible from my treasure chest to replace those from the original kit First I started by the topchop I think it's clean cut and it won't leave big scares 

 I opened the roof and used plastic rod to smooth the edges. I'll use thin wood planks to create a nice openwork sunroof Also used plastic rod to add more details to the wheelwells and drilled them Then I took a deep breath and started to dig inside my chest. That was worth the effort as I found a Ford 40' pickup frame that I sawed here and there to make the rails fit inside the Deuce. You already guessed channeling was not an option, right? I chopped a spare radiator and cut the bottom of the firewall to clear space for the transmission. Damned where does this engine came from? My guess is Chevy Impala lowrider - but I'm not sure Wheels with white walls were ordered a long time ago from www.thepartsbox.com (by the way, is this website still running?) Her's the general stance next steps: - Find a decent dropped I-beam because the one used for the mockup (Ford 40' pickup) is too "rough" for me - Rework the frame to connect the rear axle - Build a new floor - Find nice seats Edited February 26, 2012 by qmhd
Jantrix Posted December 12, 2011 Posted December 12, 2011 I love what your doing here. I hope you haven't glued those wheel wells in yet. You might find it difficult to put the interior cup in.
Dr. Cranky Posted December 12, 2011 Posted December 12, 2011 Ditto on what Rob just said. But also, you are working a great little look into this build. The chop is one of the best I've seen in a while. Keep it going . . . please.
Draggon Posted December 12, 2011 Posted December 12, 2011 I dig it, that side profile, wheels and tires, and ride height is just right!
Greg Pugh Posted December 12, 2011 Posted December 12, 2011 I was going to say that frame looked familiar. I did a lot of trimming on mine also. Keep up the good work. I love the look you're going for.
Thor Posted December 12, 2011 Posted December 12, 2011 I love what your doing here. I hope you haven't glued those wheel wells in yet. You might find it difficult to put the interior cup in. Second that, i just did that mistake on my 32. had to chop up the interior and install it bit by bit
qmhd Posted December 12, 2011 Author Posted December 12, 2011 (edited) Thanks for the comments guys. Here is another small update for today

After I found the seats, I roughly scratchbuilt a new floor and tunnel to see how it could look inside the channeled body








 not bad isn't it? Edited December 12, 2011 by qmhd
Greg Myers Posted December 12, 2011 Posted December 12, 2011 the parts box http://www.thepartsbox.com/store/
qmhd Posted December 12, 2011 Author Posted December 12, 2011 (edited) I decided to change the rear axle and use a spare one alors coming from my chest
 

 

 Here is a mockup of the frame inside the body
 

 Maybe I'll create a rear roll-on but I like this view and don't wan't to hide everything Edited December 12, 2011 by qmhd
qmhd Posted December 12, 2011 Author Posted December 12, 2011 (edited) the parts box http://www.thepartsbox.com/store/ thanks but I read: "Closed for spring cleaning!" and... we're close the Xmass so I wonder if this shop is still running... I've reshaped the front parts of the rails and changed the front axle
I think this one will do the job
 

Global stance 


 Small details 

 Lots of work to do but I'll take my time... Any comments or advices always welcome here ! Tech sheet: 
- red parts: Ford 40 pickup Monogram
 - blue patrs: Ford 50 pickup Monogram 
- chrome parts + seats: Chevy Nomad gasser AMT 
- white parts: Evergreen plastic card
 - body, firewall, dashboard: Ford 32 Revell
 - tires and rims: www.thepartbox.com
 - engine: no idea 

 and by the way, sorry, yes, the wheelwells are already glued but so far, at this step of the build I haven't found any problem (yet) working with them like that.

 Sorry too if my English is not 100% correct, I'm French speaking Edited December 12, 2011 by qmhd
qmhd Posted December 12, 2011 Author Posted December 12, 2011 (edited) Did you use two tops on the chop ? No, I used only one + plastic card to fill the gaps Edit: I cut the roof following the green markings and widened it following the pink ones then filled the gaps with plastic cards Edited December 13, 2011 by qmhd
weasel Posted December 12, 2011 Posted December 12, 2011 excellent build...you had me at 'chop the top'...
tooltas Posted December 12, 2011 Posted December 12, 2011 got a nail head out of the older amt 40 kits
01blueedge Posted December 13, 2011 Posted December 13, 2011 looking good so far great job on the kitbashing and on the chop cant wait to see more
62rebel Posted December 13, 2011 Posted December 13, 2011 rethink that rear 4-link... that arrangement won't work in 1:1.
Rick Schmidt Posted December 13, 2011 Posted December 13, 2011 Lookin good so far. Can't go wrong with a Channeled Rod hehe As for getting the interior in ... I don't think getting a Kit interior in is gonna be an issue anymore with that Channel lol
qmhd Posted December 13, 2011 Author Posted December 13, 2011 (edited) rethink that rear 4-link... that arrangement won't work in 1:1. would it be more realistic if I setup the 4 bars like that? Edited December 13, 2011 by qmhd
qmhd Posted December 13, 2011 Author Posted December 13, 2011 Lookin good so far. Can't go wrong with a Channeled Rod hehe As for getting the interior in ... I don't think getting a Kit interior in is gonna be an issue anymore with that Channel lol Of course it won't be I'll have to create it as I did for the floor and tunel. Just don't know yet the style I'll choose
Rick Schmidt Posted December 13, 2011 Posted December 13, 2011 What I did when channeling my sedan and 5 window was mod the lower door panels and attach them to the inner body then slide the floor up to them with the frame. Just an idea if ya like the kit side panels.
62rebel Posted December 14, 2011 Posted December 14, 2011 the transverse rear spring and 4 link aren't compatible. moving the radius rods to parallel the frame rails if you're going to keep the rear spring would be okay; but 4 links have to be parallel to each other or nearly so, and use coil springs more often than not. usually, the builder of a car would usually (not always, for sure) have the same type of suspension at each end of the car; hairpin rods up front and spread radius in back; or corvair up front, 4 link in back, later on in the '60's, and when Mustang II stuff came along it was popular to do parallel leaf springs out back and MII up front. of course, every builder had their own preferences. ferinstance: any time your car has radius rods from the front axle back to the trans x-member, it should have them from the rear axle also. there are steering dynamics at work in that arrangement that can't be dismissed. split the front bones, you must split the rear.
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