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Posted

Ive been building for years, and never had paint problems ever! I use mostly House Of Kolor through Airbrush, and automotive 1k primer. In the last couple of years Ive had more issues with paint than ever, mostly crazing, and rippling in the plastic. No matter what I use as a primer, or base the lines (swirls) in the plastic show through (usually on sides, and roof) or else the paint all "curls" up and looks like orange peel, but its actually reacting.

Ive layed a clear coat over the bare plastic before primer, and even a silver base over the plastic, then primer but I am out of ideas . anyone have any?? Im sick of throwing out good bodies.

- Ill also mention, that this is ONLY with newer Revell releases.

Posted

Futurabat - Ive tried Duplicolor primer and had the same results. Ive been using actuall Auto 1k primer lately with better results than anything, but still not my desired results.

trogdor- yes I was all my parts and leave them a few days to dry, prior to painting, as well as clean them with a tack cloth and generally degreaser before primer.

Posted (edited)

I echo what Futurabat is saying........I STRONGLY recommend using Future Floor Wax (now called Pledge with Future Shine) to seal the newer Revell kit bodies. A number of years ago, (I don't recall the year) Revell switched to a "softer" and probably more flexible type of plastic. There were screams and howls as fellas at the time were building the then new '05 Mustang kit (that must have been the year then), and were complaining BIG TIME about crazing plastic from paints they never had trouble with before.

Future can be airbrushed on (carefully) or brushed on with a sponge brush as it normally doesn't leave any brush marks. In fact, I recommend using Future whenever you have dissimilar materials such as resin with plastic parts. What may not craze the resin, may very well craze the plastic.

Revell swears they couldn't duplicate the problem, but from the MANY posts I've read, including this one and on other boards, I'd say there still is a problem with their too soft plastic.

Hope this helps! ;)

Edited by MrObsessive
Posted

Bill is 100% correct as it showed up in 2005 with the release of the new Mustang. I just about went nuts trying to paint one of those Mustangs. I used Duplicolor primer, Plastikote primer...and I got crazing. Duplicolor paint, nail polish, Tamiya spray, same results.

I finally painted it using several extremely light coats of Duplicolor...it took me days to get the paint so it covered. Paint one light coat...sand it smooth with 3000, paint it again, sand it again....then I cleared with Urethane 2 part. But what a process !

In recent years I haven't had this issue at all. Maybe, and I suspect probably it's luck.

But to answer your question, this is absolutely not you or anything you are doing. The Future route definitely works....I did try this on another Mustang after someone did it (I think Bill and is 05 Atomic Orange Corvette) and I had zero crazing. However I used Testors lacquers with Testors thinner on those, so who knows if it was the sealer, or the paint, or both.

Posted

I've been using Barcoat Isolator to seal the plastic from hot solvents for decades now. Its a specialty coating that allows a hot paint like lacquer to be sprayed over the likes of enamel.

One coat makes the plastic bullet proof to hot solvents. It is especially good in sealing off areas where you have done body work and to prevent ghosting

http://www.u-pol.com...ng-isolator.htm

file_33.jpg

Posted

OK! It WAS 2005 then.......thanks Jeff! And yes, that was my Corvette that I painted Sunset Orange that I built a few years ago. I did barrier the plastic first with Future as I had already heard (and read) the horror stories with Revell's soft plastic. Here are a few pics of the 'Vette............

P3041192-vi.jpg

P3041195-vi.jpg

P3041196-vi.jpg

Hmmm........that's the first I have ever heard of Barcoat Isolator. Looks like it should be some great stuff to use-----I'll have to give it a try!

Posted

Hmmm........that's the first I have ever heard of Barcoat Isolator. Looks like it should be some great stuff to use-----I'll have to give it a try!

But if Future works so well (and I'll bet is a heck of a lot cheaper than that sealer stuff)... why mess with success?

Just wondering, given as how you are one of the master builders here.

Posted (edited)

P3041195-vi.jpg

Man I wish I could get that color in rattle can. That is one of my favorite colors.

Edited by JamesW
Posted

But if Future works so well (and I'll bet is a heck of a lot cheaper than that sealer stuff)... why mess with success?

Just wondering, given as how you are one of the master builders here.

In case I can't ever find it again! Hee-Hee! :P

Also, Future can be tricky to apply at times.......likes to run alot if you're not careful. the good part is if you mess up, Windex (or any ammonia) will take it right off. The Barsoft says it can be applied and useful in one coat. I've found with Future, several coats is necessary for it to be effective.

Thanks for the compliment Harry!

Posted

I've never had any problem using Plasti Kote T235 gray sandable primer on anything so far. Or any of the other colors for that matter. The most recent Revell kit I've built was the '66 Impala. I have a few other newer projects,but not a single problem yet. I do however sand the entire body and wash it before spraying primer. That could or could not be the difference.

Posted

I've had paint adhesion problems with Revell plastics in the past (grain of salt- I usually don't wash parts before paint with styrene- resin's a whole other ballgame) but so far no significant issues with the plastic being crazed. I normally use Duplicolor or Krylon primers, depending on what basecoats I'll be using and/or what I have on hand.

Posted

I did not have any issues on the 2005 and up Revell Mustangs kits, and I use duplicolor primer, but I did how ever have issues with the Caddy Escalde kit.

Posted

Any grocery store in the households cleaning section should have it. You want to look for "Pledge with Future Shine". They changed the name from just plain Future a while ago, but it's the same stuff.

For what else Future can do, you'll want to go here. ;)

Posted

It only has happened to with the Revell Hummer kit, and that's about it. I think Future clear works very well for sealing. I use it mostly on acrylic based builds and to seal in decals.

Posted

It only has happened to with the Revell Hummer kit, and that's about it. I think Future clear works very well for sealing. I use it mostly on acrylic based builds and to seal in decals.

Thanks for the heads up Virgil, I have two of them to build, I already started to prime one of them, I used duplicolor white primer and got lucky, no problems, but I have not painted it yet.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

alright, so im back again. in the past couple weeks ive tried, Plasti-coat sealer in spray can, and Orion Brand 2 part sealer from a paint supply store ....... both of them still have all of the casting "swirls" etc pulling through. any other suggestions? I dont like the way that future works, I tried it and it leaves the body bumpy and all of it collects at the bottom.

Posted

I have never had any problem's with the plastic that Revell uses. But then I warm up the body and parts in my dehydrator first before primer. I also wash all parts in warm soapy water and let them air dry overnight before priming with white Duplicolour primer.

Posted

what are you using for paint? I am using HOK an other "HOT" paints. my results are nearly as bad if I use a dupli-color touch up or testors laquer

what are you using for paint? I am using HOK an other "HOT" paints. my results are nearly as bad if I use a dupli-color touch up or testors laquer

Posted

I've used Duplicolor primer and have had mixed results, I' ve used Plasticote and had no problems. I like to put on light coats and build up a seal coat. If you don't mind spending the money on a small can, I like Tamiya's primers.

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