Muncie Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 yep, that's it.thanks for including all of the story about how you got there - it's good reading - really explains how a small change in the dimensions can make a big difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Nailed itX2....super sharp, Bill. Best...>TIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 Thanks to everyone for the interest and comments. I'm trying to keep this one simple enough so it will get finished in this lifetime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James2 Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Yeah, but I really enjoy turning somebody's thrown-out, bodged or given-up-on disaster into a nice model. So true, I enjoy the same thing and I dig following yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High octane Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Your project is lookin' great Bill. Why are you choosing the AMT body over the new Revell body? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 (edited) Your project is lookin' great Bill. Why are you choosing the AMT body over the new Revell body? Thanks. Thanks Nick! I've got 3 WIPs going using the new Revell '29 parts from my first kit...the body is going in the Eddie Dye project http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/105602-eddie-dye-roadster-new-revell-29-scratchbash-sept-15-scaling-and-scratching/ , because the curve of the tail is more accurate on the Revell body than the old AMT. I'm using the zeed model-A frame and front axle from the new Revell kit to go under a '26 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/105644-26-ford-rod-based-on-new-revell-29-bits-sept-15-third-mockup/ because the A frame is perfect for a lighter car like a T, and the frame and rear wheel wells from the new Revell '29 are under this one. I was originally going to use a heavily modified AMT frame under this, or possibly a modified Revell '32 frame from the '32 kits, but the narrowed rear of this latest Revell frame seemed a great place to start here. Edited October 13, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Macleod Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Sorry if you have already addressed this question but I'm wondering about the source of the windshield. Wheels are Johan Mercedes right? This is one beautifully executed project. I look forward to seeing your progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 Sorry if you have already addressed this question but I'm wondering about the source of the windshield. Wheels are Johan Mercedes right? This is one beautifully executed project. I look forward to seeing your progress. Eric, thanks for your interest and kind comment. The windshield shown on the first mockup is the DuVall-style piece from the AMT '32 Phantom Vickie (though I'll probably do a Hallock-style or Brooklands screens for the final build). You're right about the wheels. Rear tires the same. Front tires are AMT '34 Ford, which fit the Johan wheels perfectly. The AMT Vicke DuVall is too wide to fit the '29 bodies well, but if fits all the 1/25 '32 Ford bodies, AMT and Revell, quite well with only moderate reworking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 (edited) I'm sure you guys know that Norm Veber at Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland has a Hallock windshield frame that is designed to fit the '29 bodies...right? And thanks Bill for clarifying the sources for those way cool wheels and tires. Yow!!!! Best Regards...TIM Edited October 14, 2015 by tim boyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) They say the devil's in the details, and the hard part of any build for me is sticking to it after I KNOW how it will look, but still have to go through all the motions to get there. Once I have the overall theme and stance established, I tend to go spinning off into more creative beginnings on new projects, rather than staying with the precise and time-consuming work to complete things. A character flaw, I know, and one I simply CAN'T indulge in real-life. Anyway, this one's shaping up slowly. I've put the front crossmember back in between the frame rails, after narrowing it to fit the pinch, and turning it upside-down to raise the spring (and drop the nose) a little further. You could do it like this on a real one, but making an entirely new crossmember would be the right way, and after this one is trimmed and corrected, that's what it will represent. The frame-rails themselves have been clearanced a bit for the spring ends too. The AMT firewall has also been clearanced to fit the new bellhousing. Rear suspension is shaping up, with the ancient Revell '30 Ford axle bells, wishbones and backing plates, and an equally ancient Revell parts-pack quick-change center section. I've lengthened the hood a scale 2" by adding a 2mm strip of stock to the rear of it. This will be shaped to fit the cowl. I'm using headers from the very old Monogram Indy Kurtis for this. The end tubes are paired the correct width for a nailhead (as are the ports on this old Monogram 1/24 Orange Hauler engine I'm using for a jig), but the center tube spacing needs to be stretched. This is the mashup engine...new-release Revell ('29 Ford) nailhead block, headers modified as above, old Revell parts-pack heads, valley cover, bellhousing and oil pan, and an AMT parts-pack Borg-Warner T-10 4-speed trans. This is the payoff for the additional work on the front crossmember, and the lengthened hood. I was able to get very close to the stance of the original mockup back...with the suspension actually under the car...and that's a large part of what I like best about this particular build. Edited October 31, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Bill....inspiring progress and results! Funny you should mention/show the old Revell Model A rear components with a quick change in the middle. Working on my 5th variation of this kit, last night I was going through my kits and parts boxes and set aside exactly those same parts (except the Quick Change - I also like the Revell Parts Pack piece but I need to use one that comes from a more accessible source in case I turn this into a future article of some sort - probably the AMT '25T or '40 Willys unit.) Stance and overall imagery look great. Also like your "kitbashed" as it were, Nailhead. Best Regards...TIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) Tim, thanks for the comments. If I recall correctly (I'll check in a minute or three) the AMT quick-change centers are too large in diameter to look right with the old Revell axle tubes, though it's mos' likely just a minor measuring / scaling problem somewhere along the line...which is why I used the smaller old Revell parts-pack unit. There IS a difference between Ford model A / midget and V8 quick-change diameters at the bolt-circle (the A is 9" in diameter, while the '35 and later "V8" unit is 9.25"...BOTH quick-change styles were available). The difference between the A and V8 units is kinda small to be visible in 1/25 (only .25mm) , but the difference in the bolt-flange diameter between the AMT axle housings and the Revell QC centers is VERY obvious. Something else to be aware of if you do a QC...all of the flanges on the various kit axle tubes are WAY too thick to look anywhere near scale-correct. Notice the axle-tube bolt flange in the lower LH corner of the photo below. You'll see it's quite thin. Many kit parts represent this flange as being over 1" thick, which looks ridiculous to anyone familiar with the real thing. The kit flanges are very easily thinned to look much better. The flanges on the axle-tubes at lower left (photo below) have been thinned significantly to look more correct. Edited October 31, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exesivefire Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Bill, this is looking great. I know that feeling all too well. I have many many started projects on the workbench lined up in a row that have all stalled at the same spot. I get all the mockup and major construction done, and get stuck. There is something about the raw plastic look that still holds some charm to me as well.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterNNL Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Looks like there enough "stalled" street rod projects here to fill a whole"in process"table at a future NNL.Tim,does that soud like a cult theme as much to you as it does to me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 Looks like there enough "stalled" street rod projects here to fill a whole"in process"table at a future NNL. Tim,does that soud like a cult theme as much to you as it does to me? Tom....as if you didn't know this idea is like waving red meat in front of a charging bull.....let's do it! TB Tim, thanks for the comments. If I recall correctly (I'll check in a minute or three) the AMT quick-change centers are too large in diameter to look right with the old Revell axle tubes, though it's mos' likely just a minor measuring / scaling problem somewhere along the line...which is why I used the smaller old Revell parts-pack unit. There IS a difference between Ford model A / midget and V8 quick-change diameters at the bolt-circle (the A is 9" in diameter, while the '35 and later "V8" unit is 9.25"...BOTH quick-change styles were available). The difference between the A and V8 units is kinda small to be visible in 1/25 (only .25mm) , but the difference in the bolt-flange diameter between the AMT axle housings and the Revell QC centers is VERY obvious. Something else to be aware of if you do a QC...all of the flanges on the various kit axle tubes are WAY too thick to look anywhere near scale-correct. Notice the axle-tube bolt flange in the lower LH corner of the photo below. You'll see it's quite thin. Many kit parts represent this flange as being over 1" thick, which looks ridiculous to anyone familiar with the real thing. The kit flanges are very easily thinned to look much better. The flanges on the axle-tubes at lower left (photo below) have been thinned significantly to look more correct. B Bill...thanks for the info and advice. Appreciate the point in the flange thickness too....TB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted November 1, 2015 Author Share Posted November 1, 2015 I'm finally very happy with the fit of the rear of the extended hood at the cowl. I also found a mystery windshield assembly, sorta Brroklands-style, that fits the vision I have of this thing. The main visual elements in final position. This particular header design, nailhead-specific, and the through-the-cowl steering linkage are important to maintaining the feel of the original drawing that was this build's inspiration. The oil pan sump will need to be raised a bit, but that kind of minor mod is common on a 1:1 vehicle...and better to raise the bottom of the sump than to raise the engine in the chassis and ruin the car's handling and lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 Just keeps getting better. The "Brooklands"-ish screen really goes well with the wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phildaupho Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 Agree that windshield really goes well with the wheels and steering arrangement. It is going to be a very handsome 29. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DumpyDan Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne swayze Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 Great looking hot rod! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Metallic Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 Looking better and betterOK parts gurus...where is that windshield from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AUGIEDOGGIE Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 nice i like al of the gret work so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share Posted November 29, 2015 My sincere thanks to everyone who's commented for your interest. I had a little bench time, and the next thing to address was the rear spring, a crossmember to accommodate it, and the placement of the crossmember to maintain the stance exactly. I'm getting a little low on model A chassis to rob rear crossmembers from (either an A or a T rear crossmember is usually necessary to swap in an A or T spring that has enough arch to clear a QC rear end in a '32 frame...of course depending on several factors, like how low you want to go). Rather than hacking one out of one of my dwindling supply, I decided to scratchbuild one, using the old and excellent Revell '30-'31 unit as a pattern. The rear crossmember on the chassis in the foreground is what we're after. I traced the shape on sheet stock first (also shown is the in-process filling of the mounting locations the Revell kit chassis provides for the crossmembers and bits)... ...cut the pieces out and assembled them (tacked with small drops of liquid cement) on a fixture to hold them steady for work... ...matched the pieces and glued a cap over the side webs... ...and after everything hardened up and got trimmed, we have a finished crossmember, ready to go in. Here it is in its rough position. The photo also shows a slightly dropped center crossmember I made from tube to support the rear of the trans, and the filled indentations the Revell frame comes with to mount the kit crossmembers. The next step is to tack the axle bells and QC housing together (notice the wishbone with the old mechanical brake backing plate removed) with the wishbones, and set up the rear ride height by positioning the new crossmember correctly relative to whatever spring will come closest to giving me the original stance. I have several to choose from at this point, thanks to the beautiful work provided by R&M. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exesivefire Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Man, why haven't I thought of making a crossmember like that... Good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTalmage Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 That's exactly what I was thinking! Lol!! Now I know what I have to do for a lot of the hot rods I have stored in my brain lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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