Another Super 7

[Scale-Master]

Thanks guys!

I had to make the cam drive cogs before I make the pulley set. More milled aluminum…

[Harry P.]

I don't know if this has already been asked, but what are you using as your references? Are you working strictly off photos, or do you have actual mechanical/technical plans. or what?

[Scale-Master]

Are you working strictly off photos, or do you have actual mechanical/technical plans. or what?

All of the above and more, plus access to a real Seven. Having built (and even finished...) a couple real cars and fabricating parts for them doesn't hurt either.

[Scale-Master]

The idlers for the cam and oil pump drive are done…

[Scale-Master]

The cogged cam drive belt was machined from a nylon zip-tie.

I built a little jig to instill a memory to it.

[Ryan S.]

The zip tie belt is genius. So obvious a thing to use and it looks perfect! All of this is truly mind-blowing work.

[Scale-Master]

Thanks. While the zip-tie works, it is really just the source of the material. None of the actual outer surfaces of the zip-tie are left.

I made the pulleys for the fan belt. It turns only the water pump and alternator off the crank.

There is a fan, but it is only for the alternator.

I also made some of the rear details for the alternator.

Not that it will be seen behind the fan especially once installed in the car, but I added some armature detail too.

[blunc]

have you considered the belt from dead ink jet printers? I think it may be easier to work with than zip tie plastic.

[Scale-Master]

have you considered the belt from dead ink jet printers? I think it may be easier to work with than zip tie plastic.

This way I am able to cut the teeth of the belt to fit perfectly to the cogs. I have some of the printer belts you mention, but all I have seen are the wrong size (too big) and even more difficult to work as a material (too soft).

It worked fine on the last one made...

[Scale-Master]

With all that work I couldn’t very well allow a floating alternator now could I?

The upper mounting/tensioner. Mounted to the water pump.

[lanesteele240]

Floating alternators are cool.

[Art Laski]

Wow, every post is such a lesson. Thanks for sharing, Mark!

[Scale-Master]

The fire extinguisher and holder are done…

[Chas SCR]

This is looking better and better each time. Thanks for all the insperation on pushing us to the next level of detail work.

[Modelmartin]

Cup holders?

[Scale-Master]

The passenger will have to be the cup holder...

These are the main parts for the starter and solenoid, 17 individual parts not counting the wires or the plug, mostly brass; 7 parts in the solenoid cap alone.

A little grunge and wear was added after I assembled it.

It is about ½ inch long.

[Tony-442]

Unbelievable... I'll add a few more Wow's too!

Floating alternators, Oh I laughed at that!

[Scale-Master]

Oil filter. Raw, unfinished parts.

I date the filter with a Marks-A-Lot when I do an oil change on my real cars too…

Dirtied it up just a little.

And added the oil pressure sender and a couple fittings.

[Scale-Master]

Clutch slave cylinder. Brass & aluminum.

[Scale-Master]

This will be the ignition box. Crane Fireball HI-6. I milled it from a chunk of leftover resin.

[MonoPed]

I had one of the Crane boxes (and the Ford style coil) in my Fox ragtop - nice touch!

[bobthehobbyguy]

This will be the ignition box. Crane Fireball HI-6. I milled it from a chunk of leftover resin.

This is the only picture that is showing the rest are saying over band with.

Love the project. This is definity the next level of model building.

[Scale-Master]

Yeah, I guess I was out building my account, so I switched to another photo host. The older pictures should return on the 20th.

[Scale-Master]

This is the coil and mounting bracket. The coil is machined from brass rod and aluminum.

[Scale-Master]

These are the spark plug boots.