Mongoose '57, ("Formerly What's Hiding in all those Boxes?)

[rmvw guy]

With a large number of models in your collection, did you ever wonder what is hiding in all those sealed boxes? You might get a surprise like I did. With the kit no longer in production by Revell what can I do? Thought of saving it for the next production run, which may never happen, and I can't seem to find a donor body so, I think I will try to make a repair. It would never be a collector piece anyway.

Edited May 9, 2013 by rmvw guy

[scalemodelworld]

What a freak surprise. Repairing would be a great test of MY abilities - something I'd look forward to. But if it were me, I'd probably contact Revell anyway. You never know, they might at least offer you another kit as compensation.

[vintagedragfan]

wow, wonder how that ever got into the box, that is just a little bit noticeable

[wrecker388]

Wow. That's pretty nasty. Didn't Revell re-release this kit fairly recently? Or is that the 55 i'm thinking of?

[uncle potts]

That's why I never leave one unopened. Got burned by a Ford Snow plow kit with no frame. Now they're opened by the time I get home.

[Pro Wrench]

I have one of those bodies that is unbuilt but has been painted a pretty nice dark metallic green that I would trade you if you are interested.

[nhra1625]

I always atleast unwrap mine in the parking lot after I buy them to do a quick once over of everything. But man thag sucks. Good thing its not on a big body line so it should be a fairly easy repair.

Good luck

[charlie8575]

I always get it out of the shrink-wrap within 24 hours to make sure all is well.

Ron, you're a good builder. I'd look at Kenn's all-scratched models for some ideas on how to fix that, as you'll be doing a very similar operation, and I think you can do it.

Charlie Larkin

[Edsel-Dan]

On that Funny7 car body, since the sides are so flat, I would glue some Sheet styrene behind it.

.01 .015, or .02 inch, depending any interior piece that needs to fit.

run it as far across the side as possible, then fill the gap with .02 or .04.

I personally would use the thinner and layer it for greater strength.

I have a Prestige 63 Galaxie like that. Smaller gaps, but more.

I cut it apart, and used the windshield frame area to repair a Promo!

[outragis]

I have a brand new body I have up for trade

[rmvw guy]

Thanks guys, I want to try out my abilities on this one. I did write to Revell and received no reply. I have had good service from them otherwise and figure they just got a good laugh out of it, then, "What are we suppose to do? We don't even make that kit any more." Thanks for your tips and offerings. I was thinking of using the Ghost Busters Cadillac body but, looks like too much trouble. Watch as I make my best effort. If I ruin it I can always use the parts for something I guess. I remember when I use to open every model in the parking lot before I became a collector at some point. (Not any more!) Now I just want to open them all!

Edited March 24, 2013 by rmvw guy

[raildogg]

Ditto to opening the box within 24 hrs. I've had kit with missing vital organs before. I will never get burned again. I always verify parts count and quality before the day is out.

[slusher]

Man, l have some kits to open. Ron, l hope you can fix that.....

[1930fordpickup]

Wow now I need to check a bunch of kits .

What about one of the many VW kit bodies you have ?

[Tom Geiger]

When I buy a new kit I haven't seen before, I always open them up to check them out. When I buy old collector kits, something I haven't done in years, I will leave the wrap intact, just in case I want to flip it. I can always open it up later on if I choose to build it. And when I buy duplicates, especially cheap kits for parts or the future, I won't bother to open them. So I do have a lot of sealed kits in the hoard.

Overall, I've not had many issues that would warrant returning a kit. Plus most of my buys are at shows, eBay and the like, rather at hobby shops where I could return a kit. For instance, back in the early 1980s when I was starting out, I returned a Johan Marlin to the hobby shop because it was missing a back bumper... bummer, I never found the kit again. Today, I'd put a note out to the boards and find a bumper!

The only time I've seen a short shot in one of my own kits was a 1982 Cavalier kit. Of course way out of production! I didn't even notice that the windshield was a short shot until I was at the point to install it. I didn't have a spare kit then, so I just made my own out of clear plastic.

[Ace-Garageguy]

That kinda bites, but as there appears to be very little curvature at the bottom of that body, I'd most likely repair it by 'regularizing' the damage, simply cutting a straight horizontal section off the bottom of the body (the cut line just at the top of the missing area) and gluing in a flat section of styrene sheet (gently curved by hand if necessary). Cut it long so you can re-cut the wheel-arches on either end, and re-shape the slight wheel-arch flares with a little filler.

Or you could try a fiberglass repair similar to the technique I used on Project Phoenix (which was missing several large sections of body as well).

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=58538

Edited March 24, 2013 by Ace-Garageguy

[rmvw guy]

I don't know why I thought this was such a big deal, just a little extra work that's all. Here's my work so far, I think the photos tell the story. Need some drying time then putty and sanding will be after that.

Edited April 10, 2013 by rmvw guy

[Ace-Garageguy]

Perfect !!

[jrherald420]

Exactly what I was thinking I would do when I first saw the pictures. Nice work!

[rmvw guy]

Thanks guys, guess I got lucky the panel was relatively flat this time. As the glue continues to dry, I notice it is kind of squishing between the seams filling them. I don't think it will require a lot of putty. I have been putting this project off over 3 years after first opening the box.

[cobraman]

Nice fix.

[Agent G]

Squishy is the technical term!

Modelers use the squish technique exactly for that purpose, lessen the need for putty. When you get the squish, you know you have a good solid bond.

Good Job!

G

[Huw Griffiths]

  On 3/24/2013 at 9:11 PM, Agent G said:

Squishy is the technical term!

I doubt if many people would take issue with the choice of words.

However, I can't see myself being alone in not worrying too much what the technical term is.

It's the result that matters - and it's starting to look very good.

Not much else to say, really - except that it'll be interesting to see how this one develops.

Huw.

Edited March 25, 2013 by Huw Griffiths

[Tony T]

Nice save, Ron!

[slammedi'am]

Nice save for sure!

I need to finish mine up that I have