Paint Strippers - What to Use?

[stitchdup]

13 minutes ago, catpack68 said:

Has anybody tried stripping paint off 3-D printed parts? Any suggestions?

isopropyl  alcohol

[catpack68]

28 minutes ago, stitchdup said:

isopropyl  alcohol

Thanks for the info?

[peteski]

There are many different 3-D resin formulations, that I would be cautious, regardless of which stripper we try.

[drodg]

I have a resin kit I want to remove the primer and lacquer paint.  Wondering what will do it?  I have tried Simple Green and it really has done nothing after a week of soaking.  Any suggestions?

[4knflyin]

I recently found a product called ELO. You brush it on (warning about submerging parts), and when the paint start to separate, use a brush to remove the pain... or decal. Yes, it's advertised and I've used it for both paint and decals. So far so good. The only unusual mandatory step is washing the stripped surface with detergent afterward. The washing really is a must, but it all works, so worth a try.

[W Humble]

I'd swear that Testor's ELO is just Dot 3 brake fluid!  Don't leave styrene in it too long soaking; embrittles the plastic!  

[4knflyin]

On 7/22/2024 at 12:52 AM, W Humble said:

I'd swear that Testor's ELO is just Dot 3 brake fluid!  Don't leave styrene in it too long soaking; embrittles the plastic!  

You know, I think you’re right. I’m so used to using brake fluid that smells awful, bike racing blue. But I recently used DOT3 fluid I had around from when I worked on a friends car, and it had no odor at all and had the same consistency as the ELO. Brillient deduction, Watson.

[W Humble]

Marcus, I was shocked to pay over ten bucks (ten years ago) for ELO -- I just supposed it had a lot of advantages over DOT 3.  I do 1/1 restoration too, and once had saved about a quart of used DOT 3, so I (feeling poor) put it through a couple of strainings to get the obvious chunks out and tried a couple of old styrene bodies in the Tupperware tray using the used stuff.  It worked; a bit slower and messier, but cheep!  If I get into any more stripping, tho, I'm going to try some of the MCM advertisers' products.  Wick

[peteski]

On 7/22/2024 at 12:52 AM, W Humble said:

I'd swear that Testor's ELO is just Dot 3 brake fluid!  Don't leave styrene in it too long soaking; embrittles the plastic!  

Well not quite, but they are somewhat related.  Don't swear! 

DOT3 Brake fluid is Ethylene Glycol or Alkyl Polyglycol Ether Esters. ELO is Isobutyl Alcohol and Glycol Monobutyl Ether.  So no, not quite the same thing. Internet and availability of online MSDS makes it easier nowadays to find out ingredients of chemicals we used in our hobbies.

Then there are also multiple formulas of plastic used for kits.  There is Polystyrene, and ABS, then there are variations of each type. They all can behave differently when exposed to "plastic safe" paint strippers.  Best to test compatibility first. Also the length of exposure and the temperature of the stripping solution will affect the results. Good modeler is a well  informed modeler.

[peteski]

On 7/21/2024 at 11:20 PM, 4knflyin said:

I recently found a product called ELO. You brush it on (warning about submerging parts), and when the paint start to separate, use a brush to remove the pain... or decal.

You might have just found it, but it has been around for decades. Originally it was a Floquil Company product.  I can also guarantee if you were to look through this entire thread, you will find several mentions of Easy-Lift-Off (or ELO) in those hundreds of posts. There is also Scalecoat Wash-Away paint remover (another hobby paint stripper), although the state of the Scalecoat paint line is currently in question (I have few bottles of it stashed away).

[W Humble]

Peteski,

Well, I guess I'm just an old modeler -- first car kits I built were Revell Highway Pioneers (def not custom/comp 3-in-1 products!) in about 1955.

I'm going to try the stripper product advertised in the magazine next, tho I don't have much left that needs stripping, at 79.  I seldom add a 'new' kit to my pile, because I'm still trying to complete all the projects I began in 1960!  And their all stripped now, and I sure hope to finish them before my expiration date.  Since I do 1/1 restorations, I mostly rely on PPG OEM-type finishes, to virtually 100% good result.  As a PPG employee (my retirement job, from teaching, etc.) I have a lot of goodies to draw upon; and I'll share!

Thx!  Wick

[peteski]

2 hours ago, W Humble said:

Peteski,

Well, I guess I'm just an old modeler -- first car kits I built were Revell Highway Pioneers (def not custom/comp 3-in-1 products!) in about 1955.

1955? While I'm no spring chicken, I wasn't even born for several more years.

In my experience with "plastic safe" paint strippers, except maybe for 99% Isopropanol, and the Castro Super Clean, all others can cause some damage (for the reasons I mentioned in my previous reply to you). But even those (especially the alcohol) might affect certain urethane resins (while being safe for polystyrene).

And also I have not found a truly universal stripper which would safely strip any type/brand of paint from any plastic. That is what I have about half a dozen of various paint strippers I use for plastic models.

Edited August 1, 2024 by peteski

[W Humble]

Pete,

Yeah, I built mostly aircraft (Aurora Famous Fighters series, when b-day or Xmas came), ships, and military (Renwal, Hawk, Revell, etc.) because there were so few car kits, really.  My first modifyable were Revell '56 Ford, '56 Buick, of which I still have some parts -- and decals!  Then AMT came to the rescue, and in '59 my bros and I bought a number of 3-in-1 kits, half of we still have  -- or, I have 'em!  Gave away (or blew up) all the others by 1960; my course was set!

You're right on strippers, oc.  Wick

[TransAmMike]

OK, I know there are Createx users on here.   Sprayed Createx Pearl on model over Mr. Surfacer 1500.  Sprayed Rustoleum Clear Lacquer over it (done it before with good result) and this time it checked the paint...total ruination.

Now put it in purple pond to strip the paint off.  Did nothing. Used Easy Off. Have sprayed it over a dozen times and with not much success.  Even the abrasive pad barely scrubbed it off.

Anyone have another suggestion.  Remember the key to it is, it's Createx Acrylic Resin paint.

[TransAmMike]

Well I guess no one has had my issue?.

[4knflyin]

4 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Well I guess no one has had my issue?.

Maybe not your specific products, but difficult to strip coatings, absolutely. Might I suggest using some DOT3 brake fluid. Do an area at a time — no soaking! — and when it starts to bubble and lift the coating, use a toothbrush or whatever with detergent to clean it off.

In my experience, it rips right through any outer coat, decals, color coat, or base with little issue.

if you work on your own car, you remember being warned numerous times about how caustic brake fluid is… to almost everything, but especially to your car’s finish. But it also can change the consistency and elasticity of plastic if left too long, thus the no-soaking admonition. GL. 

Of course, there’s always brake cleaner, but I’m not sure there would be anything left of anything if you tried that ????  ?

Edited November 2, 2024 by 4knflyin

[stitchdup]

pick through to your primer spots in a few places and try again. if the stripper can get to the primer it should eventually peel off. it will take a bit longer but if you poke at the areas you are through to the primer with some scrap plastic occaisonally you can speed it up a little.  have you tried ipa also? its been my go to for a few months now.

[TransAmMike]

53 minutes ago, 4knflyin said:

Maybe not your specific products, but difficult to strip coatings, absolutely. Might I suggest using some DOT3 brake fluid. Do an area at a time — no soaking! — and when it starts to bubble and lift the coating, use a toothbrush or whatever with detergent to clean it off.

In my experience, it rips right through any outer coat, decals, color coat, or base with little issue.

if you work on your own car, you remember being warned numerous times about how caustic brake fluid is… to almost everything, but especially to your car’s finish. But it also can change the consistency and elasticity of plastic if left too long, thus the no-soaking admonition. GL. 

Of course, there’s always brake cleaner, but I’m not sure there would be anything left of anything if you tried that ????  ?

 

29 minutes ago, stitchdup said:

pick through to your primer spots in a few places and try again. if the stripper can get to the primer it should eventually peel off. it will take a bit longer but if you poke at the areas you are through to the primer with some scrap plastic occaisonally you can speed it up a little.  have you tried ipa also? its been my go to for a few months now.

Thank you Marcus and Les.    I did see in earlier posts about the brake fluid and IPA.   I have not tried them yet, was hoping someone actually tried stripping the Createx. 

Anyway, will try both and see what happens.  

Thanks again guys!

[dmthamade]

Primarily an aircraft builder, had a few i had to strip. I use Mr. Color Leveling Thinner.  I don't soak the build, i soak a paper towel with the stuff and wipe away the paint and decals. It will stril Tamiya Lacquer bottle paint and spray bombs. It DOES NOT harm the plastic!!                                                                                                      

[dmthamade]

Sorry, premature enter key. Pic shows a F-104 that went bad after the clear flat coat, shows pic mid strip, then finished results. This was done by wiping the pain away with a paper towel soaked with the Mr. Color Leveling thinner, Guesstimate took 20 minutes. This was painted with Tamiya spray bombs and AK Real colors Lacquers, stripped off easily with no harm to plastic. Also, because i didn't soak the build, i didn't have to worry about the cockpit or gear wells suffering. End result

 

[TransAmMike]

21 hours ago, dmthamade said:

Primarily an aircraft builder, had a few i had to strip. I use Mr. Color Leveling Thinner.  I don't soak the build, i soak a paper towel with the stuff and wipe away the paint and decals. It will stril Tamiya Lacquer bottle paint and spray bombs. It DOES NOT harm the plastic!!                                                                                                      

Well Don, you are the winner. The Mr Hobby Leveling 400 did the trick. Like you said, just dampen cloth, rub and off it comes. 

Thanks for that suggestion. 

[rattle can man]

Where do you get your Leveling 400?  I know it is not available locally. And the Big Name website I looked at only had large bottles.

[TransAmMike]

15 hours ago, rattle can man said:

Where do you get your Leveling 400?  I know it is not available locally. And the Big Name website I looked at only had large bottles.

You're right Harry.  I only buy the big bottle anyway since I use Mr. Hobby paints a lot.   Google the thinner and it will come up with some sellers.  It is hard to find tho, especially at a reasonable price.

[4knflyin]

On 11/2/2024 at 6:07 PM, TransAmMike said:

 

Thank you Marcus and Les.    I did see in earlier posts about the brake fluid and IPA.   I have not tried them yet, was hoping someone actually tried stripping the Createx. 

Anyway, will try both and see what happens.  

Thanks again guys!

I’m glad you found something that works. From your first post, I was under the impression that you were at wits end after trying all the usual solutions. Then I saw your reply that mentioned you hadn’t even yet tried IPA and realized you were just at the beginning. The mention of using Easy Off was to me a sign of desperation… I would never have thought that came at the start. Lol. My impression was likely heavily skewed by my personal my first experience stripping paint from a plastic model. Oh, the memories.?

In the future, you now know that you can use paint thinner as long as you are careful not to soak the plastic in it. But may I suggest that, if you’re not in a hurry, soaking it — yes, soaking — future pieces in 99% IPA for a few hours or overnight (has to be the 99% variety). The IPA definitely will never harm any of your pieces and the paint usually comes off in layers.

I have found that it sometimes leaves bits of Tamiya fine gray primer, which is then easily removed with either a rag or paper towel soaked in the IPA and very little elbow grease.

As an experiment, I’m going to soak some sprue in Mr. leveler thinner and see if indeed it doesn’t harm the plastic. BTW, I use the stuff to thin every type of paint, even Duplicolor, annd even once by mistake with Alclad. No problems. Acrylic, lacquer, decanted Tamiya, the Mr. Thinner is great stuff.

All that being said, this has been a useful thread to me. And by the length of it, lots of others, too!

Well done. Post a couple pics, won’t you. 

[TransAmMike]

18 hours ago, 4knflyin said:

I’m glad you found something that works. From your first post, I was under the impression that you were at wits end after trying all the usual solutions. Then I saw your reply that mentioned you hadn’t even yet tried IPA and realized you were just at the beginning. The mention of using Easy Off was to me a sign of desperation… I would never have thought that came at the start. Lol. My impression was likely heavily skewed by my personal my first experience stripping paint from a plastic model. Oh, the memories.?

In the future, you now know that you can use paint thinner as long as you are careful not to soak the plastic in it. But may I suggest that, if you’re not in a hurry, soaking it — yes, soaking — future pieces in 99% IPA for a few hours or overnight (has to be the 99% variety). The IPA definitely will never harm any of your pieces and the paint usually comes off in layers.

I have found that it sometimes leaves bits of Tamiya fine gray primer, which is then easily removed with either a rag or paper towel soaked in the IPA and very little elbow grease.

As an experiment, I’m going to soak some sprue in Mr. leveler thinner and see if indeed it doesn’t harm the plastic. BTW, I use the stuff to thin every type of paint, even Duplicolor, annd even once by mistake with Alclad. No problems. Acrylic, lacquer, decanted Tamiya, the Mr. Thinner is great stuff.

All that being said, this has been a useful thread to me. And by the length of it, lots of others, too!

Well done. Post a couple pics, won’t you. 

The suggestion of using the Mr. Hobby Leveling 400 was a life saver for me (well at least for stripping paint off?)    Easily wiped off with just a small amount of thinner sections at a time. Then a tight spots and creases I dipped toothbrush in a small amount in a bottle, brushed it on, waited a few seconds and brushed it right off.

Got this much off with the Easy-off after not getting any off with the Castrol Degreaser.

After the thinner all gone and like it was unpainted.  Didn't take pics before I re-primed it.