mk11 Posted January 12, 2014 Posted January 12, 2014 Have any of you guys picked one up yet? I'm wondering if mine is an exception or part of a bad batch. Badly warped body and chrome tree very rough on one side making the front wheels unusable without stripping/replating/acladding. Ejector pin marks on the outer rim don't help either and judging by the box art, that may be endemic to this as the box art model has the rim painted black. mike
gman Posted January 12, 2014 Posted January 12, 2014 Have any of you guys picked one up yet? I'm wondering if mine is an exception or part of a bad batch. Badly warped body and chrome tree very rough on one side making the front wheels unusable without stripping/replating/acladding. Ejector pin marks on the outer rim don't help either and judging by the box art, that may be endemic to this as the box art model has the rim painted black. mike Yes- the injector pin marks were there in previous issues of the kit. As for the chrome being rough, mine is fine though the nature of the body pieces make them easy to warp if sprues are removed too soon or boxed too soon during the manufacturing process.
cobraman Posted January 12, 2014 Posted January 12, 2014 That kit has one heck of a nice chassis for a custom build.
TooOld Posted January 12, 2014 Posted January 12, 2014 Ditto to what Greg has already said . I've bought a few of these over the years including one of the latest reissue and they are all the same . No warped bodies but the chrome has never been the best and yes , all of the front wheels have ejector marks on the rims . . . too bad 'cause otherwise they look pretty nice !
mk11 Posted January 13, 2014 Author Posted January 13, 2014 Like most buyers of this kit, I was going for the chassis, engine and wheels. Kind of dumb to engrave the front wheels facing opposite the rest of the prime parts. Oh well, hope the request to revell will bring some passable wheels at least... mike
Toner283 Posted January 13, 2014 Posted January 13, 2014 if you have a copy of the 50th anniversary edition of the Lil Coffin handy, have a look at the box art for it. The ejector pin marks are very clearly visible on the front wheel on the box art. They have been like that probably since the very early issues of the kit. I agree that it is strange that they would choose to do the front rims like that instead of turning them around to face the other way. As far as the warp, that body is fairly flimsy so if they pulled it out of the molds before it was cool enough then it could possibly warp. A bit of hot water and some patience should straighten it out for you.
bigphoto Posted January 13, 2014 Posted January 13, 2014 (edited) This is interesting if you want to go a different route with it. retrorides.proboards.com/thread/93064 Edited January 13, 2014 by bigphoto
RancheroSteve Posted January 14, 2014 Posted January 14, 2014 Quite the history lesson, and certainly an illustration of paint technology through the years. Kind of amazing after all that butchering they were able to restore it to 1962 specs.
lordairgtar Posted January 18, 2014 Posted January 18, 2014 That Monkey Ward version was just..........no! Probably designed by monkeys.
Mark Posted January 18, 2014 Posted January 18, 2014 If you have warpage AND bad plating, why not contact Revell about getting a replacement kit? A small problem might have been passable when retail prices were in the $10-12 range, but when they are double that, I don't bother fixing stuff...I contact them and get good parts.
Brett Barrow Posted January 18, 2014 Posted January 18, 2014 You can sand the front rims flat and then BMF the rim get rid of the ejector pins.
George M Posted January 19, 2014 Posted January 19, 2014 I had the same issue with warped parts. The body, seats, and floor were severely warped. I tried soaking in hot water but it didn't fix the problem. Ended up contacting Revell and had the replacement parts sent. They arrived fairly fast.
Dave Darby Posted January 20, 2014 Posted January 20, 2014 Those are aluminum wheels on the real car. The only real chrome would be on the center caps and lug nuts. I would sand the outer rims smooth to get rid of the ejector pin marks, then mask off the centers and hot them with Alclad. Brush some gunmetal or similar dark gray on the spokes, and you are golden.
mk11 Posted January 23, 2014 Author Posted January 23, 2014 (edited) You can sand the front rims flat and then BMF the rim get rid of the ejector pins. Wonder why the box art car builder didn't do that... beautiful job otherwise That's a good idea, as long as the rest of the chrome is good & smooth but unfortunately it's severely pebbled and actually thin enough to see the white plastic through in a couple of spots. Just awaiting revell's response to my request for replacements... mike Edited January 23, 2014 by mk11
mk11 Posted February 9, 2014 Author Posted February 9, 2014 (edited) Received a replacement body and wheels from Revell this week. Thanks gentlemen ! Here's the parts layout... mike Edited February 11, 2014 by mk11
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