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Pocher Rolls Sedanca


Cato

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Wife shooting you would be better than getting yelled at.

There are several sources for missing parts starting with Model Motorcars. They have the instruction sheets on the site too if you know the kit number, like the Sedanca is K-72. But you will definitely want the Koo CD which is what the instructions should have been.

By the way, the instructions are free at modelmotorcars. com. You'll find them here:

http://www.modelmotorcars.com/html/useful_info/manuals/manuals_home.htm

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You guys are great, those instructions are super helpful

I have a weird affinity for rescuing lost kits and making something out of nothing

But the Pochers are so complicated, expensive and BIG

The instruction manual is a keystone for me, thanks a ton for that

We shall see! Offer made

Edited by Twokidsnosleep
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To my forum friends,

A serious health situation has been discovered and my wife's health has been affected. Just today we received some very encouraging news but we have a ways to go with hospitalization and recovery(s).

We're not out of woods yet but live in new hope.

I want you to know that my work on the project will continue as the situation (hopefully) improves and I will continue to update this thread.

I will also continue to peek at the forum to divert from the recent stress overload. Your great work on display is a good tonic for me.

Thanks to all who care and supported my work.

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You are so welcome, Merry Christmas to you and yours

Prayers for your wife's swift recovery

ps: I bought my Alfa K73 today......will start a thread when it gets here

Thank you so much for your help

Thanks Dude and also to you.

Harry's the real Pocher expert here (2 Alfas, Benz, Sedanca and a pending Torpedo / Shooting Brake). I'm sure he'll weigh in on your thread as I will as my situation allows.

You are not alone. ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Pocher friends,

While adjusting to a new way of daily life, I've begun to plan my next step in this project. It's a pleasant diversion from the serious side of things now - as is viewing this forum and your great projects. It has proven to be the most difficult as I just can't visualize how to proceed as easily as the rest of the build presented itself.

As a 'soft landing' I decided to build and upholster the seats next. I have collected 1:1 reference shots and selected the type seats I want in the car. Been wrestling with how best to make them.

I dug out some old balsa and basswood (still in dry, clean condition) and will only use the Pocher rear seat shell to construct the rear 'sofa'.

I did some layout on the balsa but I now only work in brief spurts compared to the hours I've spent in the past. But I uncover the big chunk and it's nice inspiration to continue.

No pics yet but when I've something decent to show, I will.

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Some movement...

-but not at the previous pace. I chose to build and upholster the seats instead of the tedium of intense detail, thinking it would be a reprieve. Boy was I wrong....

Despite some input from previous Pocher builders who've done 'non-standard' interiors, this is coming more difficult to me than other obstacles I've figured out. So I starting building a 'test mule' rear seat, thinking I could scrap it as the problems arose. Most of this has been a WAG as far as dimensions and materials.

So here is the 1:1 Phantom Continental rear seat I chose. Figuring it's not TOO difficult and should be doable for an upholstery dummy like me:

424Medium_zps51320bfc.jpg

I had previously sourced a medium charcoal, .5mm thick kid skin and a stock of balsa planks and boards. By eyeball, I decided the Pocher plastic seat back and base needed to be cut on the 'arm rest' sides to lower them. So I did the math to fit the 15 pleats of the seat back in place. I raised the back edge on my back rest plank to end just below the rear window edge as I like that close-coupled look. I rounded the top edge as I saw the 1:1:

425Medium_zps035250d3.jpg

Roughed into the plastic seat shell. The rounded top edge not added yet:

426Medium_zps561b7dc0.jpg

Remember, at each juncture, I was prepared to throw this away and start again. But so far, no harm done. Wanting a plush feel and look, I cut up some thin shell foam and CA'd it to the pleats:

427Medium_zpsb545ca49.jpg

A better look:

428Medium_zps5ef89151.jpg

What I had overlooked in this process is that I wanted a soft seat with depressions from seated patrons in the leather. I should have contoured the planks before applying foam. But again, thinking I was wasting time anyway, I kept going. At worst I'd waste 28 sq. inches of leather (gasp...). All the professionally built Sedancas I've seen have ram-rod straight seat backs which I think is not 'natural'. Reason is that many of them use MMC resin seats. Beautiful upholstery, just not as 'life like' I think.

But before that I was bright enough to test the adhesives that might work. Sure enough, thin CA immediately stained through to the finished side. I knew contact adhesive would be too quick with no room for error. I tested my fave, Loctite super gel CA and no bleed through and a bond that left a bit of positioning time. I read that Pacer Bondini would work as well too.

So I cut the leather and began in the center. I used my thin MM ruler to press the skin into the groove between two pleats. Worked great. So I alternated left and right, adhering into the grooves. But I soon saw a dummy problem; I didn't cut the skin wide enough; those slots really eat up leather. I would fall 2 pleats short on each side. Throw away and start again??

Pushed my luck and 'let in' enough skin on one side to cover. The key was getting the mating seam to not stand higher or show glued edge. Got away with it on one side and have not yet done the other. But I will and maybe I can actually use this in the car. The top pleat edges will be stretched and glued in place if the side addition goes well. I'll have to cut the center pleat near the bottom to inset the center arm rest. Then make the base and two separate seat cushions. Gotta figure those out first.

What say - should I can this and start over??

429Medium_zps320569f2.jpg

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nice looking leather; could you share its source?

sounds like you would be more confident starting another cushion, and that in itself might make the rest of the project better.

I know if I slip over something no matter the end result, my eye always goes to the part "I could have done better".

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The leather is from Pitthards in the UK.

I agree with your premise about dissatisfaction later on. And I always make 3 of something to keep one because I second guess myself to death.

But I will do this piece to completion just to learn the feel of things. If it's junk I'll start again.

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Your seat looks awesome, keep going. Love the fabrication process here.

You could add a separate leather bit at each end for the seat's arm and side and incorporate the last pleat maybe??? ie tuck it into the pleat.

OR have an extra bit of leather from the seat cushions that wraps up to cover the side and fills the gaps you are missing in the outside edge pleats. Hope that makes sense to you.

Size is always the problem with leather work.....your skin is too small or you run out and can't match the hide again to cover some other bit of the project. You can never have just enough.

When I make a leather bag or something, my decision process for what skin to use involves having more than enough leather to do the job...if not, you WILL run out and be buggered. On my MG, I wanted a darker skin, but there was not enough of that leather to cover the seat, glue the edges and trim excess past the glueline. So I used a boring color that I had tons of. I also had to skive it which is prone to ruining lots of leather, so needed more than enough. Sorry I am babbling.

I bookmarked your leather shop in the UK, thanks for that

Cheers

Edited by Twokidsnosleep
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