Harry P. Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 I don't understand the problems you guys are having posting photos interspersed with text. It works for me just like it always did... type the text, hit return and paste the image info, hit return and type more text, hit return and post next photo's image info, etc., etc.It's not working that way for you guys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 (edited) I figured your relative absence was the old adage; 'if you can't say anything nice...'Yep Scott, my work doesn't inspire like Harry's. Mine DISCOURAGES...It seems kind of useless to jump in every now and then with "Yo, dude!" Carry on. Edited August 25, 2015 by sjordan2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 I don't understand the problems you guys are having posting photos interspersed with text. It works for me just like it always did... type the text, hit return and paste the image info, hit return and type more text, hit return and post next photo's image info, etc., etc.It's not working that way for you guys?I see Harry; you use the link symbol with image info between text. I've been using the 'drag files / choose files' link. Only loads the files below all the text body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twokidsnosleep Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 I don't understand the problems you guys are having posting photos interspersed with text. It works for me just like it always did... type the text, hit return and paste the image info, hit return and type more text, hit return and post next photo's image info, etc., etc.It's not working that way for you guys?My problem is only on the i-pad...it likes to reload the entire page on both photo bucket and MCM when I am going between them...so I lose the pic from photo bucket or it dumps my text on MCMSo if I save my MCM text/photos and then go back to add more photos or text below my post, I cannot scroll below the last picture to add anythingI tested an edit on my I Mac at work just now and it is fine....so maybe just an i-pad issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twokidsnosleep Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 It seems kind of useless to jump in every now and then with "Yo, dude!" Carry on. We just want to make sure you are still breathing.....you've been quiet, too quiet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twokidsnosleep Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 I figured your relative absence was the old adage; 'if you can't say anything nice...'Yep Scott, my work doesn't inspire like Harry's. Mine DISCOURAGES...Ou contra ire my friend...who got me hooked into this Pocher addiction in the first place?????None other than Mr Cato and this very RR thread . Not that I am complaining, you broadened my modelling horizons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 Ou contra ire my friend...who got me hooked into this Pocher addiction in the first place????? None other than Mr Cato and this very RR thread . Not that I am complaining, you broadened my modelling horizons Then that action also instigated the depletion of your bank account which of course, you placed blame on me to your wife. I am already hated by enough women in THIS country, thank you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 The reply boxes on this forum are like a box of chocolates. -- you never know where you'll end up when you click to reply. Now it's sprout.com. Anyway, your sweep design is growing on me.just did a reply post with my iphone 4 with sagari and had no issues posting. Something is very strange with your ipad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share Posted August 31, 2015 No more paper templates... Color sweep cladding now permanent on this side. Other side, cowl and rear panel tomorrow. Yellow just tacked on for viewing. Will be painted not cladding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Hmmm.... you're adding cladding to the body to create a sweep, and on my Bugatti I'm trying to figure out an easy way to get rid of the molded-in cladding/sweep! Oh, the irony... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share Posted August 31, 2015 Hmmm.... you're adding cladding to the body to create a sweep, and on my Bugatti I'm trying to figure out an easy way to get rid of the molded-in cladding/sweep! Oh, the irony... Yes, I think structurally on a 1:1 Rolls a crease on those big flat panels would strengthen the panels. But on the model, I did it because I like the raised edge which makes it 'sensible' to have a color break there. The shadow of the line appeals to me. I think the crease on the Bug is very attractive. Adds a nice visual element, flows into the fenders and again, a good reason for a color break. Will you one-color the whole car or do the sweep by just masking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Will you one-color the whole car or do the sweep by just masking?Not sure yet. I might even wind up leaving the sweep if it turns out to be too much of hassle to get rid of it. But if I do leave it, I'm going with a subtle two-tone scheme, not the black/yellow or black/red or black/blue this car was typically painted. Maybe gunmetal with a silver sweep... something a little understated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codi Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 (edited) Cato, it's been a while since I posted here, but without a dout, that is just simply STUNNING! My hat's off to you sir and can't wait to see your future posts as you progress on this build. A fan. Cheers, Tim Edited September 5, 2015 by Codi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted September 5, 2015 Author Share Posted September 5, 2015 Cato, it's been a while since I posted here, but without a dout, that is just simply STUNNING! My hat's off to you sir and can't wait to see your future posts as you progress on this build. A fan. Cheers, TimThanks Tim and glad to have you along. I have been steadily working on the cladding installed above. It is important to get every join and line to flow smoothly around the form and that's what I've been doing. The body parts are so large, any flaw shows easily. Much time spent with 3M filler and constant sanding. It's just like 1:1 bodywork.Preparing to install the beltline so some pictures soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted September 7, 2015 Author Share Posted September 7, 2015 Coming together... With the look finalized, here is the first complete side with sweep and beltline. This cleans up the Pocher dip and hopefully adds to the swept-back look of speed. Some tips for those working in large scale: The belt consists of .030 strip cut 6.5mm wide at the door front to 3mm wide at the back edge. Atop that is .080 half round as a center accent strip. When attaching I used one full-length strip of 3M striping tape for a guide to get perfectly straight. Then using a tiny DROP of Gel CA at the front and rear edge of each strip, place in proper location. Double check for arrow-straightness. If misalignment is detected, it's very easy to slide a scalpel between the parts to break the bond, correct the alignment and reapply CA Gel. Then wick VERY THIN plastic weld cement to the top and bottom edges, pressing as you go. DO NOT SMEAR CEMENT on finished face. The .080 is applied the same way. I heated the rear edge of both joined pieces on a candle to pre-curve it around the body rear corner.. Then tiny Gel drops to anchor the strip around the curve. With cement and Gel, less is more. When doing large body work, especially in the finish stages, it's often easiest to work with the large body on its side or back. To prevent scuffing on the work surface (I sand to 600 grit just before primer) I made these foam surfaces cut to rough body shape. They are the 24" square work mats sold at the home supply stores and are inexpensive. I cut them into sanding blocks too for various areas where I don't want a hard wooden sanding block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 I wasn't expecting the sweep that goes up to the fixed top. Perfect Deco touch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-body fan Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 That looks trick!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 Nice work. Interesting change. Looking forward to more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Basher Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 Wow! You have used this kit as a base to make your own creation, and it looks great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share Posted September 9, 2015 A REALLY important tip... This applies to Pocher Rolls' but other Pochers would benefit from the principle. Even smaller 'big scale' builds too. You can't see both sides at once but for the truly anal (who me?) you will get a model that stands the highest scrutiny. Plus it's something that makes viewers feel it's an accurate replica but they don't know why. It's taken for granted that cars sit even and level. Throughout all the mock-ups and test fits over time, one thing has consistently bothered me. The tire to fender gap in the rear has never been even side-to-side. I checked warps, mounting locations and dozens of other parameters. The solution came to me today. And it's simple as pie for anyone to check and correct. First mount the wheels in place and place model on a relatively level surface. I added 2, 1 pound weights for checking purposes to settle everything where it will be when bolted together and the full interior and body are on. A simple pointer (pointed bamboo skewer) clamped in an 'extra hands' soldering jig makes an excellent reference jig. Pick a location on the chassis and just touch the pointer to the surface. Repeat on the other side and note any difference. I then fabricated 2, 1/8 x 1/4 styrene beams and placed them between the axle top and a bracket on the chassis. I kept adjusting the length of the spacer until the low side matched the 'correct' side. EACH SPACER WILL BE A DIFFERENT LENGTH. I made a circular notch in the spacer to go around the the tubular location on the axle and made the flat top fit snugly into the chassis bracket. When all checks and adjustments were done and both sides equal, a coat of flat black and two dabs of Gel CA completed the installation. But not before full-dress with rear fenders on and comparing each tire gap. The reason for the disparity on the Rolls is the complex brake bracketry which locates the axle to the chassis by small screws and uneven friction at each joint. CA on those joins would not last under the model's weight.One side will flex more than another. Having a now-invisible prop of the proper dimension assures that a very visible area of the car looks correct. Seen in the last shot in near-full dress, all the proportions and lines are evident. I darkened the roof filler to make viewing a bit easier. I may, when I get to the 'fine-tuning' stage, remove the .062 shim in the front springs to get that fender back closer to the tires. For now, a full 'undressing' and perfecting all the panels for primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 Nice idea with the leveling blocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share Posted September 9, 2015 Sorry the pics are out of sequence. I'm having no fun with WYSIWYG.As you know Harry, you take nothing for granted in Pocherland. I hope this applies to the other classics but certainly the principle of checking is vital. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twokidsnosleep Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 (edited) I really like that belt line you posted Monday....was wondering if you heated and pre-curved it and yes you did after I read the whole postYour wheel gap and stance are superb in today's pictures..great attention to detailVery classy look Cato Edited September 9, 2015 by Twokidsnosleep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 As you know Harry, you take nothing for granted in Pocherland. I hope this applies to the other classics but certainly the principle of checking is vital. My Rolls woody chassis sits pretty level. The problem is the body... it's not exactly identical left to right. Not Pocher's fault, though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-body fan Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 I've been a fairly avid follower of this build (and a few others in this section). l really like the way you handled leveling the suspension on this. Simple, neat, and effective. Most excellent work all the way through I might add. I'm preparing to undertake my first large scale build(s). I'm certainly not going to start with a Pocher kit. I think my 1/12 Camaro should be a good place to start. I've seen some very nicely built. Anyway, I recently acquired a rather expensive kit from a friend at an excellent price. This build and a few others are quite inspiring to me! Thanks for sharing this with us. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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