What do model builders overlook that could improve their models?

[Rasputen]

A lot of people forget to paint the white backup lamps onto the appropriate tail lamp lenses - the 71-73 Mustang models are a perfect example.

[Guest]

Stance is everything. Whether it's a gasser or a lowrider & all points in between, how it sits on the table is crucial.

Exactly! If the wheels/tires or stance is wrong, might as well chuck it back into the box. I recently got back in on a '37 Ford pickup that I had chucked back into the box two years ago. The wheels/tires were totally wrong. I had the right stance. But, I had went about it the wrong way. I now have it on the right track. I have a finished model that I also need to "correct".

[Tom Geiger]

A lot of people forget to paint the white backup lamps onto the appropriate tail lamp lenses - the 71-73 Mustang models are a perfect example.

I will give a tip on this... many tail lights today have red/white/orange/yellow lenses as part of them. Only your kit lens is already clear red.

In this photo is the standard red clear tail light that came with my Chevette promo. I then wrapped it in Bare Metal Foil and colored in the red and orange lenses on the foil with Sharpie pens. I painted the white back up lens with some Tamiya white. The light needed a chrome frame anyway, but this is a five minute exercise that anyone can do and it will make your model much more realistic!

[W-409]

Steve has excellent points. Simple, pretty basic things that can ruin an otherwise well built model completely.

But, how about sanding the bottoms of the tires flat? Practically every model that I see (including 99% of those that I've built) has tires inflated to gravity defying proportions. Although sanding the bottoms of the tires will not produce a realistic sidewall bulge, I think it's still better than perfectly round tires barely contacting the ground surface. This is one of the things that I learned like Ace-Garageguy did, using a camera.

This is the only thing I think a bit differently. If the tire is sanded flat from the bottom, it looks better, I must admit that. But when looking at the chassis, the tires with flat bottoms definitely don't look good especially if the tire tread isn't re-scribed.

Edited July 31, 2014 by W-409

[freakshow12]

Headlights that are not in right. They are usually scribed or molded with a mesh like pattern. They should not be crooked! I have seen many where they just slam the lens in and pay no attention to that

[Tom Geiger]

A tire sitting on the ground or a spare tire in a trunk should not have lug nuts on it! Can't tell you how many times I see that. In fact one time there was a old Ford pickup junker on the cover of Scale Auto that had a tire with lugs on the ground in front of the truck... front and center on the magazine cover! Find the spare tire in the above photo... no lugs, no center cap! And I took the extra five minutes to add valve stems.

[10thumbs]

remember to change out your piston return springs if you think your compression is getting low and if your Posi-traction isn't working like you think it should to have the "free floating pinion retainer" checked for proper free play.

Too late.

Dangit, I stripped the threads on 2 spark plugs!

Michael

[Guest]

Hood fitment. If the hood doesn't fit, make it fit! It can be done. Nothing kills a model like a jacked up hood that doesn't fit right. I've spent anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours on hoods getting them to fit correctly. It's always worth the time I spent on them.

This was one of the worst fitting hoods I've dealt with. I've had worse. But, this is the only one I have a photo of.

After some cutting, filing, putty, sanding and primer, it fit the body perfect. Time well spent!

While we're on the subject of hoods. Make sure they're the same color as the body. I paint the underside first. Then, tape it to the body so they're slightly above the top of the fenders and spray it as a unit.

[blunc]

maybe this thread should get "pinned" in the tips & tutorials section.

[sjordan2]

maybe this thread should get "pinned" in the tips & tutorials section.

I agree. But the last time great ideas - answers to Frequently Asked Questions (a subject not covered on this forum) - got pinned in Tips/tricks, they were deleted by a moderator (not Harry).

Edited August 1, 2014 by sjordan2

[Danno]

Speaking of hoods. There was one guy who posted (not necessarily here) all the time with frequent builds. He often tackled big bodywork projects and he always finished them in rapid order. His bodywork was usually somewhat lacking, but he ALWAYS got huge bundle of heaping praise . . . no matter how bad his model looked. But he had one bain. Hoods. Seemed like everything he built had a mal-fitting hood. It was kinda funny. It got to the point the badly gapped or warped hood was referred to as his "signature" feature!

He finally built one model with a nicely fitting hood. One. Next model, back to the signature.

[Longbox55]

Headlights that are not in right. They are usually scribed or molded with a mesh like pattern. They should not be crooked! I have seen many where they just slam the lens in and pay no attention to that

I'll agree with that with one possible exception, I have seen headlamps installed wrong on 1:1 vehicles, with the diffusing pattern tilted to one side or the other. Usually, it's due to a damaged headlamp housing not allowing the lamp to sit properly. If one is building a clunker type vehicle, I could see overlooking that if it was done on purpose.

[sjordan2]

Speaking of hoods. There was one guy who posted (not necessarily here) all the time with frequent builds. He often tackled big bodywork projects and he always finished them in rapid order. His bodywork was usually somewhat lacking, but he ALWAYS got huge bundle of heaping praise . . . no matter how bad his model looked. But he had one bain. Hoods. Seemed like everything he built had a mal-fitting hood. It was kinda funny. It got to the point the badly gapped or warped hood was referred to as his "signature" feature!

He finally built one model with a nicely fitting hood. One. Next model, back to the signature.

I know what you're talking about, but I've always rooted for attempts to do something special and different. Therefore, I'll heap a bit of praise on that stuff. (Which is not intended to conflict with your opinion. I agree with your assessment.).

Edited August 1, 2014 by sjordan2

[jbwelda]

my own pet peeves and things I try to go to extraordinary lengths to look right are crooked/nonparallel wheel/tires and headlamp lenses in crooked or not oriented properly (and in parallel). I hate that and especially for the wheels looking funny I have torn apart models to try to fix that and generally spend an hour of sweating over them when I initially install them. those pins and polycaps very rarely set the wheels right and I go through all kinds of effort to get wheels sitting square on the ground, parallel to the chassis and each other and all four tires touching ground.

I don't usually look nearly as hard at others models as I do on my own; and what I let pass on others without comment bugs me no end on my own.

OCD is my middle name sometimes.

jb

[jbwelda]

ok heres one that just kills me:

diorama of say a race start, both great looking cars, both posed coming off the line maybe with wheels up, all panel lines inked before paint, all appropriate tires sanded flat and bulged realistically, all valve stems in place, what could be more perfect?

Well, how about if they had a driver figure?

And of those that do, how about if that driver actually had his hands on the steering wheel and gear shift?

jb

[sbk]

Great stuff! This thread just keeps getting better. Tom, those taillights are a great idea.

[Harry P.]

ok heres one that just kills me:

diorama of say a race start, both great looking cars, both posed coming off the line maybe with wheels up, all panel lines inked before paint, all appropriate tires sanded flat and bulged realistically, all valve stems in place, what could be more perfect?

Well, how about if they had a driver figure?

Yep, I have seen dioramas like that.

[southpier]

"Homies" & "Elvira"

just say "NO"

[sbk]

"Homies" & "Elvira"

just say "NO"

Just like "cry babies" at 1:1 shows.

[D. Battista]

I think most modelers build in their own "comfort zone" It just depends what level of detail and accuracy you want to put into a build. Building models is an enjoyment we all share..! In my opinion...if you share your work on a forum or at a model car club its all done in the fun of building and sharing. I myself strive for a realistic look on most of my builds, and besides "the basics" I cant build with kit parts that are molded too thick, and I have to sand them down to look more in scale thickness. Including belts, engine and seat, exhaust tips, The edges of hoods, wheel openings in fenders, window posts, hood scoop openings should be thinned down to look more in scale. And if you add something it should be in scale. Hoses, wires, engine brackets, roll cages etc. That's how I like to build 'em...!

BUT..... if you put a model car on a table in a judged contest... You have to start with "the basics"...

• not removing mold lines, ejection pin marks, part seams, manufacturing info raised letters that could be seen
• no visible glue, finger prints, bad fitted parts or dust should be visible
• no bad paint work or bad bare metal foil work, and no bad decals
• crooked parts or crooked wheels or only sitting on 3 wheels

if you have any of the above present, your model shouldn't get a second look by judges...but I have seen too many great looking paint jobs and extra detail work that looks great ... but they have one of the above issues and still manage to place in their category..! That's not cool in my book..!

if we're talking pet peeves... at judged shows

• hoods not hinged...just sitting next to models... unless in box stock category and hinging was not included in kit
• MOLD LINES and SEAMS..!
• out of scale add on's
• crooked wheels
• a lot of added detail....but bad paint or missed basics...

But that is how I feel ...and when it's not on the contest table it's up to the individual builder to take it their own "comfort zone" and that's what makes the hobby fun for all...and I think a builder shouldn't be dinged for not doing what I think...unless he asks us what would make his model building better...!

Just what I think...

Edited August 2, 2014 by Davemodeltech

[Mark]

ok heres one that just kills me:

diorama of say a race start, both great looking cars, both posed coming off the line maybe with wheels up, all panel lines inked before paint, all appropriate tires sanded flat and bulged realistically, all valve stems in place, what could be more perfect?

Well, how about if they had a driver figure?

And of those that do, how about if that driver actually had his hands on the steering wheel and gear shift?

jb

Most of the early Revell kits ('59 Corvette, Ford Skyliner, '57 Ford Ranch Wagon, first version VW bus) included figures, but often when you find those kits assembled the figures aren't included. Most builders (myself included) don't think we're up to painting and detailing the figures. Revell figured that out pretty quick, as few of their later kits have figures included. I've got one of the MPC Jeepster kits with the safari version, and I'd like to stick it together that way. No figures included though, and I'm trying to work up the courage to try doing three or four for the project.

[Tom Geiger]

• hoods not hinged...just sitting next to models... unless in box stock category and hinging was not included in kit

I generally leave my hoods off for a couple of reasons. I am not a fan of the oversized, toylike and incorrect hinges supplied with most kits. I'd rather fill in the large long hinge slots in the firewall so it looks like the 1:1 car. Second, if you've put a lot of detail under that hood you want people to be able to see and photograph it. Hoods open at varying degrees thwarts that. So I'd rather have my hood sitting there next to the car, and of course fit well during assembly so it sits nicely in place for closed hood shots!

[jbwelda]

yes figures are a challenge, try fitting one realistically into a seat with hands on the controls sometime. but everything is a challenge if you ask me. personally I would prefer even a "ghost" figure, unpainted but there to nothing. I often use "ghost" items, figures, motors etc when I don't feel like detailing but require something there to be a placeholder if nothing else. and a car in a race diorama is just not right without something behind the wheel something hopefully at least resembling a humanoid figure. if you are not going to do the figures, my thinking anyway, don't do the diorama, just build the cars for singular display

jb

[D. Battista]

I generally leave my hoods off for a couple of reasons. I am not a fan of the oversized, toylike and incorrect hinges supplied with most kits. I'd rather fill in the large long hinge slots in the firewall so it looks like the 1:1 car. Second, if you've put a lot of detail under that hood you want people to be able to see and photograph it. Hoods open at varying degrees thwarts that. So I'd rather have my hood sitting there next to the car, and of course fit well during assembly so it sits nicely in place for closed hood shots!

Hi Tom,

That's just my thing, about hoods. And you have some good reasons for not hinging a hood. And I do agree with kit hinges being oversized and toylike. And big pieces of tubing and wire are worse than just leaving the hood off. But my thinking is to be a realistic looking scale replica it needs a hinged hood...

and I do respect everyone's "comfort zone" and reasons for doing or not doing something on a build..

Just my thoughts on hoods....

[ferrarijoe]

I always seem to forget inside of exhaust pipes. As my pics show.