GoatGuy Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 Yes, the penny really brings it into reality. Wow. The shocks and these brackets look great. Looking forward to more.
Codi Posted March 1, 2015 Author Posted March 1, 2015 Kerry and Dave, THANKS GUYS, I've been spending time prepping some parts / things so I can finally start soldering some back-half brass. I've done some quick mock-ups with the rear in place and I have to say it's looking pretty good. John, thank you as well......now aren't we due for an update by YOU? Anxious to see how you're doing. Cheers
Ognib Posted March 1, 2015 Posted March 1, 2015 Was this in a rotary table under a mill? Looks great!
Codi Posted March 1, 2015 Author Posted March 1, 2015 Ray, you are correct sir. I think I ended up using 4 different mill ends (different sizes and 1 ball end) to make it. The one accessory that Sherline sells that I want to get next is a vertical plate for the rotary table then I can do some things that I've wanted to but haven't just yet. And I read your comments on your "Big Boyz" build. Thanks for the comments. For all of you builders that haven't checked it out, you really should. Ray is doing some REALLY cool panel beating. Cheers
Ognib Posted March 1, 2015 Posted March 1, 2015 Thanks for the kudos, Tim. I have Joe Martin's book & am on like the 3rd reading. The Sherline products seem to be very well engineered & executed!
Randy D Posted March 7, 2015 Posted March 7, 2015 Hi Tim, You are a real master of finescale small parts my friend !!!!!!!! About time for pics of progress on the rear don't you think :) Randy
Codi Posted March 7, 2015 Author Posted March 7, 2015 Hey Randy...very soon...I've been making small parts, chassis jig pieces and final drawings so that I can start fabrication of the back end at some point next week. I've spent time also finishing up some small details on my brakes and even soldering some simple tiny tabs on my 4 link brackets (which took me too long as one of them "moved" and I had to take it apart and re-do it..my fault as I didn't take the necessary precaution before soldering it up) I'm working very tight tolerances (which you know all about) and it really serves to remind me what scratch building means.....these modern drag chassis require more thought and planning than my Willy's chassis. Be assured though, I'm making headway. I'll post pics sometime next week. Thanks for thinking about the build! Cheers, Tim btw, killer job on the steering rack on your gt40. Just superb.
Ognib Posted March 8, 2015 Posted March 8, 2015 Am interested in your though process & build methods on the chassis jigs, if you've got any pics & commentary you'd care to share.
Codi Posted March 8, 2015 Author Posted March 8, 2015 (edited) Hi Ray, you sir must be a mind reader as I've spent quite a bit of time and brain power (which I don't have to spare) on how to fab what I now have down on paper. The axle brackets are done. They work well and now I know what I MUST make (another pair of similar type supports albeit taller) that will help me "locate" the proper shock location. Then it's time to solder. I promise to share what I've come up with BEFORE I start the chassis fabbing. I think that what I will be describing might make more sense to anyone interested before I actually start soldering it up. I am encouraged by the progress I'm making and the ideas should be replicable for future builds. The only thought I have for anyone considering my current jig for this build is that it might not be applicable for a different type of car. Such as your GT-40...but if there are ideas that I can offer that help you or anyone else, then that is all I can hope for. Cheers, Tim SORRY RAY, I meant your Big Boyz Deuce build.......not Randy's GT-40. Tim Edited March 9, 2015 by Codi
Codi Posted March 14, 2015 Author Posted March 14, 2015 Hi, I guess if you don't post for a while you kind of forget how to. I just took 20 minutes to post to the thread and I obviously did something wrong. In brief, here are some new pics and if you have any questions, please ask and I'll do my best to explain. Cheers, Tim I did "borrow" liberally from some of the chassis jig ideas that Dave(comp1839) used and shared on his Camaro ProMod build. I'm not trying to re-invent the wheel, only trying to make it work on this particular build for the scale that I'm working in. The brackets are really helpful in locating the axle and shocks so I can build the backhalf off their locations.
Randy D Posted March 14, 2015 Posted March 14, 2015 Hey Tim, Thanks for posting the jig set-up you are using, very informative !!!! Thank you ! Randy (P.S. wonderful pics but where is my build update :D )
Mooneyzs Posted March 14, 2015 Posted March 14, 2015 Tim... That Jig is a work of art. Loving the progress. I am super impress at the whole rear end set up. I would of sworn this was the real deal. Seeing those coil overs with everything, It just blows me away. This is one Incredible build. I can't wait to see what you show up next
comp1839 Posted March 14, 2015 Posted March 14, 2015 HOLY, MOTHER OF PEARL!!!!!!! not sure how many of your followers can or will actually appreciate the "extra" effort and painstaking attention to detail but, this is off the charts. just the upper shock mounts make my eyes water. truly a breathtaking labor of love!!!!
cobraman Posted March 14, 2015 Posted March 14, 2015 Some of you guys here are just on a whole nuther level.
Nitrozilla Posted March 15, 2015 Posted March 15, 2015 When I decided to pick model building for a hobby, I wish somebody had warned me that there be Dragons out there. You Tim, are a Dragon.
Belugawrx Posted March 15, 2015 Posted March 15, 2015 ???? WOW Guess it was a little too dark under that rock,... Just went thru your Wip,..and Man, this is an incredibly detailed, exacting build you've got here,... Kudos Tim Fabulous work Cheers
10thumbs Posted March 15, 2015 Posted March 15, 2015 Hi Tim, I really had to study this quite a while to even understand what you designed and fabricated! It appears now that this jig is not only for this build but can be used for the future as well. Totally adjustable, and you're able to remove it and replace it without changing previous settings. This is fantastic. I admire the cleanliness, this looks like it's from a top notch NASCAR Team, probably even cleaner. The rear end jig is phenomenal and I would like to try and get one like this setup for my future builds! The paper is a great idea for keeping things square as well. These are pics I'll come back too many times, thanks for sharing this. Just a quickie type question, the paper diagram, it looks like I could do this easily with Excel and print it out as often as I need. About how far apart are the lines, 5mm? The rear end housing, brackets and shocks appear to be absolutely 1:1 real. Amazing! Greetings, Michael
Codi Posted March 15, 2015 Author Posted March 15, 2015 Hi, I'd like to address those that posted comments individually: Randy - many hours of prep to get to the fabbing part now. I'm learning machining as I go and it's slowing me down but I'm not really building a model here, I'm getting an education in actuality. More after school time is going to be required I'm afraid. I spent 2 1/2 hours making those twin small anti-roll brackets on the mill...they're 3.8 x 4.8mm (tiny I assure you) but they're a much cooler solution that I wanted to try to make....that's where my time has been spent. The jig brackets were machined from 1/4" alum. rod which took me too long to make as well. I know you can relate. Hopefully (I'm counting on it) this will work now as I get to fabbing the back-half. Thanks for following along too! Chris - Scratchbuilding sure is rewarding but it's tough and time consuming as you well know. You get what you put into it I guess. Great job on the blanket too! Keep her going now and thanks for your compliments. Dave - mimickry is the sincerest form of flattery and I'm doing my best to learn and replicate some of the things and lessons you've shared personally. Guys, go check out Dave's engine build. A true Monster small block that even Godzilla would fear. (photobucket - "comp1839" ) You won't be let down. Ray - Tyrone- Leonard and Dave - Thank you gentlemen for your continued interest and the kind words. I think the coming few weeks will really be a good as it relates to progress now. Joe - "dragons'.....I'm going to take that as a compliment....you do know however that Godzilla was NOT a dragon. Bruce - thank you sir. I really like your build on your Wolf F1. You are absolutely nailing the colorations all along the way. You have some very sharp talents there too my friend. I did pick up a HiroBoy 1/12th Porsche 917 LH recently...at my rate I'll get to it in a year or so. SOOOO many opps for detailing in 1/12th that it boggles my mind even where to begin. And man is it a BIG car compared to the Henry. Thanks too for your words and interest. Michael, glad to be of help as always. The grid is 1/8 of an inch. More like 4mm. I'll take apart the jig as I have to put the 4 link brackets on next to locate the axle front to rear with the chassis. I also want to scribe some vertical marks for lining up purposes on the brackets I made. That's why you see red machinist dye on them in certain areas. It will make alignment even easier I believe. I put the entire assembly plate on a machinist vice that is a twin axis. It raises the car to a level that I don't have to bend over nearly as much. I was getting a stiff neck too often from bending over the table and the gyrations while soldering were too much. I can even tilt the table if I need to for soldering purposes. I'm anxious to see how that helps. Appreciate your compliment and for following. Now where are those ladder bars for YOUR car. Cheers, Tim
cartpix Posted March 15, 2015 Posted March 15, 2015 Got 1 of the anti-roll bar brackets done. It's 8.3mm long. 3.2mm at its widest point. I was pleased that I could machine the small "chamfer" (it's 2.4mm in length at a depth of .40mm) down the middle between the large hole you see and the mark for the small hole that I've yet to drill on the narrow end. Have to round the edges and drill for the bolt in the end that secures it to the actual bar. Oh, and make another one that matches. Learned ALOT today in machining this little bugger. I had a great starting point with info that Dave shared with me again. When working this small though, I did have to make some small adjustments along the way. But I won't complain as I do like it. Comments welcome as always. Cheers, Tim First off, fantastic work. I'm amazed. How did you cut this tiny part, from the rod you machined it from? How did you keep from losing it when you cut it off? I would imagine after working 2 1/2 hours, on it, dropping it would be the worst thing ever. I have a hard enough time finding part 3 or 4 time the size, when dropped. Jeff
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