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Henry J Twin Turbo - Didn't see that coming..........


Codi

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To Austin, Bill, Glenn and Darryl a hearty thank you for your comments/posts.

For Jeremy, glad you like it and are following the thread. Tell your Father I said "hi' and I'll see you at a club event this fall. I promise to bring something!

Rodger, no, not a jeweler etc....just a crazy, retired dad (or so my kids say) that loves scratchbuilding.

Ken, glad you like the Henry J and where I've gotten the body. There are countless hours in the bodywork that I didn't even bother to keep track. The cars stance / front clip alone was changed (substantially) or 3 different occassions. Finally got to one I liked. The car was even stuffed in a box out of frustation for 6 months. Got it back out for some odd reason and just started hacking on it for the heck of it. Next thing you know...I liked it again. It's finally ready to play I think.

Back to the bench and cheers to all!

Tim

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Ok, 1 more Question Master Tim! What color are you painting the body! I also ask about the straps on the cool can and humm..lol, oh what are the wire harness from the steering wheel! Which looks like it came from a real pro mod! Thy are the black and red curly cables?

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booboo60 (alan) I'll try to explain how I made them....it's not too difficult but it is time consuming.

  1. - measure the outer diameter of the can (or whatever you want to "clamp" down) and find appropriate/approximate alum. tubing that will slip over the item.
  2. -Slice/cut the width that you desire the "strap" to be. In this case it's about 1/16" - after getting your "ring" then slice it so you can remove a little bit in the middle...in this instance I made about 3/32" gap.
  3. I had some PE strip (from either MAS or Model Car Garage...not sure) that had the "necessary gap" in the middle and drilled either end with a #75 or #76 bit...enough to accept the .5mm scalehardware nut and bolt....
  4. Bend back the ends of each PE piece so it will form a semi-circle which the bolt will go through the hold on and the "necessary gap" on the other.
  5. Super glue on on each side of your original tubing/clamp that you made in step one.
  6. Slide the entire assembly over your desired part and then install the bolt on one end and the nut on the other. And you have a v-clamp.

Like I said at the beginning...a bit tedious and time consuming but it gives a very realistic representation of the real thing.

Cheers.

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booboo60.....sorry, here's the other answers I think you're seeking;

a. the welds are the embossed 3D weld lines the guys have been posting about from Archer Fine Transfers.

b. Color...I painted up 100+ spoons this Summer messing wtih Kandy/Pearl/Metallics/PearlX among others and I think this car will look best in Satin/Matt black of all things....keep it nasty looking. Maybe.... :)

c. The "co-ax" cable from the steering wheels is micro wire from my parts supplies that are wrapped around a #75 drill bit. Simple to make actually.

Tim

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Hi, it's been a fairly good week. Rear shocks, Batteries and boxes and the CO2 bottle and it's bracket.

Shocks are modified RB units with threaded collars and purple springs.

cksBatteriesCO2BottleBracke001-vi.jpg

Batteries are scratch as are the aluminum boxes.

cksBatteriesCO2BottleBracke005-vi.jpg

cksBatteriesCO2BottleBracke010-vi.jpg

CO2 bottle has an all scratch brass regulator unit with fabbed alum. valve knob. The lower threaded line on the bottom of the bottle neck is a threaded bolt drilled out to replicate a proper fitting. The bottle bracket is drilled titanium with alum. hoops. The purple knob (again, scratch) on the back of the bracket is the release knob is the tensioner for the alum. hoops that secure the bottle. One twist, bottle is out. The brass regulator assembly was an interesting part to make.

cksBatteriesCO2BottleBracke012-vi.jpg

cksBatteriesCO2BottleBracke017-vi.jpg

cksBatteriesCO2BottleBracke019-vi.jpg

Cheers, Tim

Edited by Codi
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Hi, Before I forget to do so, I want to acknowledge MicroNitro for the machined bottle that I used for the CO2 cylinder. I shortened the bottle to the appropriate length. Everything else is scratchbuilt. I don't want to take credit for something I didn't make of course.

Lee & Chris, thank you too for your sentiments and I agree Chris, 1/16th scale for drag cars would be fun & challenging since there is so much you can consider in the build itself. You only have to look at Clay's mustang and the beautiful job he's doing on that build....simply amazing.

Cheers,

Tim

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