I tried Alcad 2 ...and it is pretty good!

[philo426]

i tried Alcad 2 and it is pretty good...but not as good as kit chrome.Should i buff it after it dries?

[CJ1971]

No!

[Kit Basher]

Looks like you might have sprayed it too heavy. There's a very fine line with that stuff: the right amount and it looks like chrome, a little more and it looks like aluminum. Also make sure your black base is really smooth and shiny. The black is what really does the job.

Edited September 18, 2014 by Kit Basher

[philo426]

[Kit Basher]

The back bumper looks better.

[philo426]

Yes !Well next time I will spray it much lighter.

Edited September 18, 2014 by philo426

[philo426]

I am a little disappointed at the results.I tried to take it easy when I sprayed it on but next time I will barely crack the trigger and hopefully have brighter luster.

[CJ1971]

It really won't matter how lightly you spray it, it ( Alcad ) will NOT give you a proper/normal chrome effect, just a similar shiny effect. You should also spray it with no more than 12-15psi on your compressor.

[Quick GMC]

The two biggest factors for Alclad:

1. Spray at a 45 degree angle across the surface.

2. When it's dry/cured, LIGHTLY buff it with a Kleenex.

There is a dry dust that settles when you spray it just right, like minute particle of paint that dries as it hits the surface. Buff this off with a tissue and it will pop a bit more without hurting the finish.

But as Paul said, the base is critical. It doesn't have to be black, but it has to be smooth and glossy.

PSI is relative, I've sprayed at 10 PSI and 25 PSI and had very similar results.

This is Alclad Black Base over Tamiya gray primer.

This is Alclad Chrome over the black base.

[sjordan2]

From the dozens of examples I've seen, Alclad looks great on small parts but not so good on larger components like bumpers and grilles.

[cruz]

Paul hit it on the nail, shiny and smooth is the idea with just a few coats at very low PSI. This is a '62 'Vette I did a while back. Those bumpers were actually polished smooth before adding the Alclad. If you get your base right, it works wonders but it's also the kind of thing you have to practice a lot to master.

[cruz]

More photos....

[Monty]

It really won't matter how lightly you spray it, it ( Alcad ) will NOT give you a proper/normal chrome effect, just a similar shiny effect. You should also spray it with no more than 12-15psi on your compressor.

I couldn't disagree with you more.

These were done by a friend of mine (purepmd on here). As has been stated, preparation is everything. Here's a quote from his post where he explains how, once the wheels were properly prepared, he was able to obtain this level of shine:

The trick to the Alclad is very low pressure; 8-10 psi, and such light coats that you cannot even see the mist. You have to watch the part very closely to see the shine appear. Then lots of coats, about 25 to 30 got this level of reflectivity. After a few hours in a food dehydrator, polish gently with a dry Q-tip. Takes lots of time.

So, no, you're probably not going to be able to get results like this quickly, but if you want results like this, the effort's worth it.

[sjordan2]

Those wheels look terrific. The worst part of kit chrome is always the wheels.

[Guest]

I'll stick to having my parts replated. The small amount of money it costs is well worth not having to attempt it with Alclad and still come out with sub standard looking "chrome". The wheels Monty posted are some of the best I've seen. But, still not worth the hassle IMO. Twenty to thirty coats of Alclad is a lot of paint. There would have to be a substantial loss of detail lost under all of that no matter how thin it's sprayed on.

[StevenGuthmiller]

I couldn't disagree with you more.

These were done by a friend of mine (purepmd on here). As has been stated, preparation is everything. Here's a quote from his post where he explains how, once the wheels were properly prepared, he was able to obtain this level of shine:

The trick to the Alclad is very low pressure; 8-10 psi, and such light coats that you cannot even see the mist. You have to watch the part very closely to see the shine appear. Then lots of coats, about 25 to 30 got this level of reflectivity. After a few hours in a food dehydrator, polish gently with a dry Q-tip. Takes lots of time.

So, no, you're probably not going to be able to get results like this quickly, but if you want results like this, the effort's worth it.

Looks great! But I have to say, having them re-plated sounds like a lot less work & You don't have to really worry about whether or not they come out right. A little more expensive to re-plate, but I'll stick with that for large parts. Steve Steve

[Monty]

I'll stick to having my parts replated. The small amount of money it costs is well worth not having to attempt it with Alclad and still come out with sub standard looking "chrome". The wheels Monty posted are some of the best I've seen. But, still not worth the hassle IMO. Twenty to thirty coats of Alclad is a lot of paint. There would have to be a substantial loss of detail lost under all of that no matter how thin it's sprayed on.

Actually that's not correct. Apparently you missed this part of purepmd's quote: The trick to the Alclad is very low pressure; 8-10 psi, and such light coats that you cannot even see the mist. You have to watch the part very closely to see the shine appear.

[Quick GMC]

There is a ton of misinformation in this thread, some of it from people who have clearly never used it. I never use kit chrome. While I don't always get the desired result with Alclad, it is absolutely possible to get a real chrome effect.

1. Should you buff it? YES, VERY LIGHTLY WITH A TISSUE

2. Can it give you an actual chrome effect? YES

3. Does it only work on small parts? NO

4. Should you only spray with 12-15 PSI? NOT NECESSARILY. YOU CAN EXPERIMENT AND SEE WHAT WORKS. I HAVE HAD SUCCESS WITH 8-25 PSI

5. Do you need 20-30 coats of Alclad? INSANITY. 2-4 IS PLENTY. THE LESS YOU CAN USE TO GET THE FULL COLOR, THE BETTER. THE MORE YOU USE, THE LESS SHINE YOU'LL GET

This is all based on what I have actually accomplished. I am a terrible painter. If I can do it, anyone on here can. Of course re-chroming parts gives you actual chrome, but if you're in a pinch, this is a solution.

The biggest thing I use Alclad for, is a starting point for weathering.

I know have some Kosutte Ginsan I will be playing with. it does show the base color through a little. I got the best "chrome" results over a bare plastic white spoon. Gloss black works well, but it darkens it a bit.

[martinfan5]

I have heard good things from some that have tried using Krylon Silver Foil Metallic, they say its much better than using Alcald Chrome.

[Monty]

I have heard good things from some that have tried using Krylon Silver Foil Metallic, they say its much better than using Alcald Chrome.

Any chance you could get us some pictures?

[martinfan5]

Any chance you could get us some pictures?

I will see what I can do Monty.

[philo426]

I was told not to apply more than one light coat ot it would dull..Might be useful to depict a natural aluminum aircraft but in the future i will either send it to Chrome Tech for replating or order a replacement from The Model haus.

Edited September 19, 2014 by philo426

[sbk]

It's not like vacuum plating, but at the same time, you're not at the mercy of the plater. If it comes out bad, I have no one but myself to blame. On the other hand, waiting a month only to find out that the chromed parts have specks in them that weren't there when you sent them.... I don't like that at all. Then, having to strip the part, send it back & hope for the best is like Russian roulette. The Cadillac grille for my '50 Chevy had to be plated 3 times before it was acceptable to me.

A smooth, wet looking base coat is a must. No orange peel or ripples. I spray many light, low pressure mist coats of chrome on top of that. I hold the part next to a white surface, & look at the reflection in the part. I keep spraying until the black specks of the base coat are nearly gone. If you push it too much farther, you'll end up with aluminum instead of chrome.

I set the part aside, & let the enamel harden. Then, I take a soft cloth & lightly buff the part to remove the dusty overspray from so many light mist coats.

Even with all that, there is still a slight haze to the overall look, that makes the reflections less crisp than vacuum plating.

I think it does work well for small parts.

[cruz]

My technique is similar to Steve's and one that certainly works. I was never too crazy about spraying it in large parts such as bumpers but as I said, as long as that surface is smooth and shiny before shooting the Alclad then you will be okay. Pictures don't lie as you can see!

[Foxer]

There is a ton of misinformation in this thread, some of it from people who have clearly never used it. I never use kit chrome. While I don't always get the desired result with Alclad, it is absolutely possible to get a real chrome effect.

1. Should you buff it? YES, VERY LIGHTLY WITH A TISSUE

2. Can it give you an actual chrome effect? YES

3. Does it only work on small parts? NO

4. Should you only spray with 12-15 PSI? NOT NECESSARILY. YOU CAN EXPERIMENT AND SEE WHAT WORKS. I HAVE HAD SUCCESS WITH 8-25 PSI

5. Do you need 20-30 coats of Alclad? INSANITY. 2-4 IS PLENTY. THE LESS YOU CAN USE TO GET THE FULL COLOR, THE BETTER. THE MORE YOU USE, THE LESS SHINE YOU'LL GET

This is all based on what I have actually accomplished. I am a terrible painter. If I can do it, anyone on here can. Of course re-chroming parts gives you actual chrome, but if you're in a pinch, this is a solution.

The biggest thing I use Alclad for, is a starting point for weathering.

I know have some Kosutte Ginsan I will be playing with. it does show the base color through a little. I got the best "chrome" results over a bare plastic white spoon. Gloss black works well, but it darkens it a bit.

agree!