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Posted

I've been looking for a thread/tutorial/video on how to do this.I think I'll need to do some when restoring models with damages windows. I'm interested in the HOW but also the equipment, materials etc.

Posted (edited)

Hi Pat

I have just done this on my latest project, an old Johan built up I purchased. I used .030' x .030' Evergreen square rod (P/N 131) to form the edges of the front windscreen. These were cut and glued with liquid cement, then trimmed to size.

002_zpsf6d934dc.jpg

After allowing time to fully dry, the basic shape was drawn on masking tape held over the window frame. I then stuck the masking tape on a sheet of clear Evergreen Sheet (0.010") and cut out the desired shape, slightly larger than needed. With very careful testing, trimming, re-fitting and repeating the procedure, I managed to get a piece that fit, without the need for glue. Took me three pieces, but I got there :rolleyes:. It even conforms to the curvature of the opening. Hope this helps.

004_zps96686751.jpg

Edited by maltsr
Posted

Hi Bob, I didn't need any glue this time, the curvature of the windscreen holds it in place by tension. The screen butts up against the square rod. It took three attempts to make one that fit like this, I'm fairly new to this technique. :rolleyes:

Posted

Pat I did something similar to what Paul did. If you want to click here, it'll take you to my '67 Mustang WIP thread. I like to use clear stencil sheet for windows however as to me they're optically clearer than styrene, and can take bends and such better without fogging.

It does take some practice, but yeah------this is the way to go if you want to do a nice restoration job on an old builtup that needs replacement glass.

Hope this helps! ;)

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Pat I did something similar to what Paul did. If you want to click here, it'll take you to my '67 Mustang WIP thread. I like to use clear stencil sheet for windows however as to me they're optically clearer than styrene, and can take bends and such better without fogging.

It does take some practice, but yeah------this is the way to go if you want to do a nice restoration job on an old builtup that needs replacement glass.

Hope this helps! ;)

Thank you for posting this, makes it so I don't have to re-invent the wheel

Posted

I believe I would try making a template from paper or thin cardboard like the stuff reciepe cards are made from rather than waste the plastic(.Just a thought)

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Pat & Bill, good tips guys! After receiving the price-quote for vacuum formed glass (yeah, it annoyed me….) looks like this is my route. I'll look into making the internal window channels, but I need to find stencil sheet.

Always a treat seeing Bill glue together a model ….. ;)

Posted

Pat & Bill, good tips guys! After receiving the price-quote for vacuum formed glass (yeah, it annoyed me….) looks like this is my route. I'll look into making the internal window channels, but I need to find stencil sheet.

Always a treat seeing Bill glue together a model ….. ;)

What about the plastic used on the inside of the sandblasting glass at work John? The one we throw out after being used for awhile. Just get a new piece. We use them for stencils at work all the time.

Posted

I've had good luck with the plastic liners from the collier of a new shirt. They are very bendable and can be cut very easily.

Posted

Another good source of clear plastic is from blister packs used to hold action figures and toy cars. The newer acetate bubbles don't yellow with age like the older cardbacks used to. I collect Hot Wheels and always open my card blisters to handle my cars, so I cut apart the flat sides of the bubbles for replacement clear windows.

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