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Posted

Entering this a little late but I picked up the Fruit Wagon, I didn't think that the amount of flash was that bad. I have noticed that on some kits that I've bought multiples of that there is always one kit out of the bunch that has a little more flash than the others, probably the fault of an individual set of molds versus the kit. There are a lot of things that could be done to tighten up molds, it has to be cost effective for the manufacturer to do so though.

Posted

There's always flash, ejector pin marks, mold lines, etc.. to contend with

always? only if you 'always' build american made kits (amt/revell). most japanese kits don't suffer those problems, have more detail and better accuracy. i know there's exceptions to this, but it's generally true.

Posted

always? only if you 'always' build american made kits (amt/revell). most japanese kits don't suffer those problems, have more detail and better accuracy. i know there's exceptions to this, but it's generally true.

I've never seen any kit made anywhere in the world, at any price, that didn't have mold lines that had to be removed. Some are better than others, of course, but they all have them.

Posted

After 50 years of doin this, its ONLY PLASTIC! If your starting out, it can be a problem to get it right, but if ya stay with it, you'll improve. If you DON'T, let it go, modeling ISN'T for EVERYBODY! That's why they have die cast. If you ENJOY workin with plastic, stick with it, you'll get better, I PROMISE! Just do YOUR thing, don't worry bout the other guy and ENJOY yourself. Itsa HOBBY, NOT a calling!

Posted (edited)

There was a lot on here... Had to clean every part of a lot of flash, like a sixteenth of an inch.

Still working through it.

It sounds like you got a bad kit, it happens sometimes. I bought the same kit recently and had a good look at it after seeing your post. Mine has a normal flash (I hesitate to even call it flash, really just a little heavier than average mold lines).

They crank out a bazillian kits at a time and sometimes one gets through that is not up to the standard of the others (often called a Friday 4pm kit :) ). Bummer but it sounds like maybe you got that kit this time.

All of the AMT Model T kits that I've seen ('26 Tall T, 26' T roadster and '27 T police car) are quite nice, a bit on the simple side but still having decent detail, tons of options, and pretty easy to build. I haven't got to my Fruit Truck yet, but I expect it to be the same.

Edited by Aaronw
Posted

The only kits that I've been disappointed with are the ones that are in my stash that I haven't gotten to yet ! but that's more on me huh?

I say if you see a kit that you like, buy it and build it. There are people who build model cars that are so detailed that when photographed they look like 1:1 cars. Then there are people who build model cars straight from the box adding no extra detail. I've been to contest that have categories where you can build your model bare bones, meaning nothing but kit parts and glue, not even paint.

So, pick the model you like, build it to your skill level, and have fun doing it. When I first started building models, some forty some years ago, I thought I was doing pretty good, my friends told me they looked great! but when I look at those models today, the are what we refer to as "glue bombs".

Build to make yourself happy, your skills will improve, learn from other builders, don't compare their work to yours.

Oh, and that '90 Mustang coupe roof was really disappointing.

Posted

Hey guys! The kid is right! I pulled out my Fruit Wagon and decided to pop the cab together. Happy 1964 to everyone! Yea, there's flash, enough that you need to sand down the edge of each piece, and because of it the edges aren't flat, they've been pushed out a tiny bit, but enough that I think you'd see it on the finished model.

The cab pieces also have some massive ejector pin marks, both innies and outies. I sanded all the outies flat and have a coat of putty on all the innies. And as someone else said here, the pieces don't have an exact mounting position. More like glue, approximate and hold until dry. I know I'll be adding a small glue edge between the sidewalls and the nose piece. I will probably glue seat to the back wall first, and then the sides to that with a cardboard or plastic sheet spacer piece taped to the front edges of the cab. No wonder kids had crooked cabs! Today, they would've molded that cab as one piece.

Posted

I'm going to be heavily modifying my Fruit Wagon cab to get the shape I want, so basically it's just raw material to me anyway.

Posted

Hey guys! The kid is right! I pulled out my Fruit Wagon and decided to pop the cab together. Happy 1964 to everyone! Yea, there's flash, enough that you need to sand down the edge of each piece, and because of it the edges aren't flat, they've been pushed out a tiny bit, but enough that I think you'd see it on the finished model.

The cab pieces also have some massive ejector pin marks, both innies and outies. I sanded all the outies flat and have a coat of putty on all the innies. And as someone else said here, the pieces don't have an exact mounting position. More like glue, approximate and hold until dry. I know I'll be adding a small glue edge between the sidewalls and the nose piece. I will probably glue seat to the back wall first, and then the sides to that with a cardboard or plastic sheet spacer piece taped to the front edges of the cab. No wonder kids had crooked cabs! Today, they would've molded that cab as one piece.

Tom, as a counterpoint, the one I have is virtually flash free, and the ejector pin marks are minimal. Sounds like there's a bad batch of them out where the mold wasn't lined up right.
Posted

Tom, as a counterpoint, the one I have is virtually flash free, and the ejector pin marks are minimal. Sounds like there's a bad batch of them out where the mold wasn't lined up right.

Probably Bill! But to the kid's point, when you have one copy... they're either all right or all wrong!

I have a second copy I haven't opened yet...

... okay just went upstairs and got it... both of mine are pretty much the same. Look at the tree that has the C cab sides and back. The space between the side of the back and the sprue is filled with flash between the part and the sprue, The edges of the pieces all have flash 'fuzz' on the edges. Look in the oval rear window. I had to run my knife around the edge to get rid of the minor flash there. Examine the edge of the sides where they attach to the sprue, there's a bit of distortion needing sanding along the outer edge at the top. All in all, it's what I expect for vintage kits of the early 1960s, but enough to cause a few hours clean up.

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