1967 Mustang convertible - Repost

[Tom Geiger]

I'd look at cutting the engine compartment out of the kit body and swapping it into the resin body

[paul alflen]

I BELIEVE THE STRIPED DECALS GO 0N THE BOTTOM OF A DOOR WITH THE DELUXE INTERIOR OPTION. THE NOTCHES ARE FOR INTERIOR LIGHTS AT THE DOOR BOTTOM ABOUT A QUARTER/ EIGHTTH OF THE WAY UP. THIS WAS AVAILABLE ON 67 AND LATE 68 MUSTANG INTERIORS AND COULD HAVE BEEN A DEALER INSTALLED OPTION ALSO!

[landman]

I'd look at cutting the engine compartment out of the kit body and swapping it into the resin body

That is a good option. I can steal more stuff off the fastback as I am planning to use part of the interior. I have a second one I plan to use to build as a fastback. Thanks.

I BELIEVE THE STRIPED DECALS GO 0N THE BOTTOM OF A DOOR WITH THE DELUXE INTERIOR OPTION. THE NOTCHES ARE FOR INTERIOR LIGHTS AT THE DOOR BOTTOM ABOUT A QUARTER/ EIGHTTH OF THE WAY UP. THIS WAS AVAILABLE ON 67 AND LATE 68 MUSTANG INTERIORS AND COULD HAVE BEEN A DEALER INSTALLED OPTION ALSO!

Thank you.

[mustang1989]

I'd look at cutting the engine compartment out of the kit body and swapping it into the resin body

Now that's a good idea Tom! There's me overthinking and missing the obvious again. lol

[landman]

Re. the shock towers, before I started cutting I went at it with a small round burr and I think I got it where it'll fit OK.

Edited December 11, 2020 by landman

[landman]

Cut off the clutch pedal and made a wide brake pedal using the pad from the clutch.

Cut off the parcel shelf from the resin kit's rear seat.

Drilled out the exhaust tips.

Edited December 11, 2020 by landman

[landman]

One of the vent window uprights was incomplete and I managed to snap the other one so I made new ones out of evergreen.

These are the steering wheel inserts (Horn bars) from the PE detail set. Any idea how to paint those silver with black "holes".

Gingerly cut out the grille. I will use the one from the PE set.

Edited December 11, 2020 by landman

[landman]

Tried my hand at making rocker panel trim à la Mr.Obsessive.

This kit doesn't have the strakes for the rear quarter vents. I'll use the ones from the fastback as the PE ones appear too large for the holes.

Notice how my scribing the door openings has left them rough? How do I remedy that or are they beyond help?

Edited December 12, 2020 by landman

[mustang1989]

These are the steering wheel inserts (Horn bars) from the PE detail set. Any idea how to paint those silver with black "holes".

Hey Pat. For me this is where the black wash comes in. There may be some other ideas floating around out there but the wash is the idea I would use. I'd be too jittery about drilling that stuff out. This build is looking good so far BTW.

Edited December 31, 2014 by mustang1989

[afx]

Joe, for the steering wheel inserts I agree on a black wash for the recesses. After that had dried I would go over the raised flat surface with some fine sandpaper. This would remove any paint overage and take a bit of sheen of the photo-etch which might eliminate the need to paint it silver.

JC

[mustang1989]

That deal with the fine sandpaper sounds like a "little black book" notation there JC. Thanks for the idea!

[landman]

Played a bit again today. Added the wheel lip moldings. Used some half-round to do them. They may be a bit oversize.

Also made a shifter for the automatic transmission.

Reduced a photo of the YOM licence plates on the car on Word as I don't have a real photoshop type program. I have Testor's No.9198 decal paper and some Liquid decal film. Can someone tell me how to use that stuff?

Edited December 12, 2020 by landman

[mustang1989]

For the wheel moldings Pat you could use some stretched sprue(I dedicated a couple of hours to perfecting this technique-it comes in handy with WWII aerial aircraft antennas). Then you still have the round look you're after and you can make it any size you want. That shifter handle is awesome! Can't help you much on the decal issue.

[Tom Geiger]

Pat, I do most of my decal work in Word also. It's just fine for changing image sizes and printing multiple copies. I will share two thoughts...

When printing, I always print multiple copies... like several sets of those plates. It's not much more paper and if you accidentally screw one up you have plenty more!

Second, I don't print my plates on decal stock. I print mine on 60 lb white bond and use white glue to glue them. I like the thickness of this paper stock.

When I do make decals, I use the Testors brand decal coating. It comes in the same small can as their paint sprays.

[landman]

Tom,I used photo paper they came out nice and crisp.

Edited December 12, 2020 by landman

[landman]

Filled the shifter hole. Added the shift quadrant decal from the Keith Marks sheet and my home made shifter and we are one step closer to an automatic car.

Kept on looking for thing to cut, file or sand on the resin body. tried several parts for fit. The taillight holes need cleaning up. The rear of the headlight holes need flattening. I understand that is normal with resin kits.Decided to use the front valance from the fastback kit.

 

 

Edited December 12, 2020 by landman

[landman]

Put the new needle & tip in my airbrush and sot a few streaks on a piece of drywall. This can of paint was in the trunk of the car and was obviously used on the car itself. It looks thinned, ready to shoot. This old TransAm body will be the test mule. I plan to do quite bit of practising before shooting anything on the car, except maybe primer to highlight defects.

Edited December 12, 2020 by landman

[Ron Hamilton]

Very nice. You and Bill are going to make me get mine out to finish it.

[landman]

A while back, I said that the fastback's rear interior quarters looked like the convertible's. They do but with a difference. The fastback's "bulge" comes right up to the door's edge.

While the convertible's top short and have a little "armrest" with an ashtray in it.

So I began a-hackin" and a-sawin' and a-filin' at the resin & fastback's panels. Scratch building the little armrest.

Edited December 12, 2020 by landman

[mustang1989]

Man Pat! Looks like more fabrication on the way! Cool! I can't help but notice that the convertible you have pictured has the deluxe brushed aluminum panels on the dash inserts and the finned aluminum door scuff plates but the front seats seem to be standard seats. I do know the parts for the deluxe seating was getting pretty tough to find when I was restoring mine...................and pricey!

[landman]

Man Pat! Looks like more fabrication on the way! Cool! I can't help but notice that the convertible you have pictured has the deluxe brushed aluminum panels on the dash inserts and the finned aluminum door scuff plates but the front seats seem to be standard seats. I do know the parts for the deluxe seating was getting pretty tough to find when I was restoring mine...................and pricey!

[landman]

Here we go again. Lets me quote but doesn't print what I wrote. Joe, that car is my car. As far as I can figure out, the guy who restored it kept most of the standard interior but dolled it up a bit with the dash & console aluminum. They are repop and glued on top of the black stuff.

While we're at it, how do I paint just the top of the ribs at the bottom of the door?

[Tom Geiger]

While we're at it, how do I paint just the top of the ribs at the bottom of the door?

I'd cover the panel with BMF, then paint it with flat black (or what ever color the part is). Once it dries, run a Q-Tip with thinner on it across the tops. Or just rub the piece with a cloth until you wear the paint off the BMF on top of the ribs.

[landman]

Tom, will the BMF stretch down into each groove without tearing?

[mustang1989]

I'd cover the panel with BMF, then paint it with flat black (or what ever color the part is). Once it dries, run a Q-Tip with thinner on it across the tops. Or just rub the piece with a cloth until you wear the paint off the BMF on top of the ribs.

That's a good idea Tom! I was thinking of a dark (maybe black) wash on the ribbed scuff plate and then make sure the top of the ribs are rubbed off nice and clean. I don't remember the top of the ribs being shiny so maybe paint the whole scuff plate "aluminum" and then apply the wash.