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1967 Mustang convertible - Repost


landman

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Heya Pat. First off the finish on your Mustang looks great man! emotion-21.gifSecondly I found out quick on my Challenger build that the black wash wasn't gonna work sSig_eeeek_zps60562610.gifso don't feel like the lone ranger with that dark wash application. What worked in military modeling world didn't here for me on the automotive side. Hope you're able to remove it successfully bud.

P.S. I love that shop scene!!!! Gives it that nice 1:1 "under construction" look.

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Looking back on the Marcos Cruz tutorial supplied by Scott, I found where I screwed up. This is my first time with resin and my first time with trying to deepen door opening lines. Marcos says to be careful not to "widen" the lines. Looking at them closely last night while trying to clean them up it is obvious that I got carried away with the scriber. Also perhaps I put too much pressure on it and chipped the material rather than peel it. Also, it think that if you did it "before" the last color coat with a light color like this, it might darken the recess just enough to accentuate the contrast. Chalk one up to experience.

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Well...3rd & final paint job. scuffed it with 1000 grit & shot it again. Next stop BMF & Lettering. Look at the positive, this is character building. In the bad old days I would probably have flung it at the wall. So I guess some things do improve with age. :)

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While I was pondering what to do with the Mustang, I built the Cat 1160 which will go in the race car hauler.

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Edited by landman
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Measured, divided and marked. That was the easy part. The letters are about the same size as the point of the knife. Good thing there are three MUSTANG on the fret , I was on the third G by the time the dust settled. Couldn't afford anymore Tiddely-Winks with FORD, there is only one set.

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The result-:so-so. But in all fairness and to ease my conscience, they look better with the naked eye than blown up like this.

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The first strip of masking tape (old) left a gooey strip on the paint. Will Goo-Gone remove that without damaging the paint?

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Oh to be neat like some of the folks on this forum!!!!!

Edited by landman
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Hi Pat, I personally think you did a good job with the script. When I work with any of the script stuff from the Model Car Garage, I usually apply it with Testors clear gloss lacquer (the stuff in the bottle) (their flat lacquer, if im putting script on flat paints.),You don't need more than a small drop in the area your putting the script and it holds good and gives a little moving around time. Not much, but enough to adjust if you get your part close to where you want it to start with. As for getting tape glue off the paint. I usually use Novus 2 which is a polish, and can be bought at most hobby stores, and it will clean up tape glue and smudges. I had so many issues with tape glue using regular masking tape, that I ended up spending a little extra at hobby lobby and getting Tamiya's masking tape from their model section. It comes in different wideths which is handy for both bodies and small parts and jobs, and it doesn't leave marks and glue behind when you remove it.

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Tried the alcohol. It didn't seem to want to dissolve that gum. So I tried the GooGone and it worked. Tested it elsewhere first. Turns out after wiping it off it left a beautiful shine. So I shined the whole car with it. There won't be any clearcoating on this one.

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Worked on the grille. I wasn't able to attach it without smearing anything. So I took it off, sanded it clean and repainted it.

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Also worked on some of the engine compartment details. There is no starter solenoid so I made one.

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Edited by landman
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I think your photo etched letters look good. Nice job.

I will echo Tamiya Tape! It's all about getting the job done right, so what's a few extra cents on tape?

One tip, when I cut photo etch parts like those, I stick the fret to clear Magic Tape. and cut it with the tape on.The letters won't go flying.

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