landman Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 (edited) Yup. It could use some polishing. Edited December 14, 2020 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bad Nickle Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Let me know what you need for them please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bad Nickle Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Let me know what u need for them please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 The postage. Can't really ask for anything. You mailing address of course. See PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 Sanded the filler I put around the windshield to bring it even like in Mike Schnur's post # 95 above. Gave it another coat of primer to bring out the imperfections. Looks like it did that very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 Reprimed the TA body & took it out to the garage along with some Testor's Model Master Ford engine and the airbrush. Ended up dropping the airbrush and breaking it. So I went and got a can of Duplicolor bright red and tried that. Much better success this time. I may go with this on the Mustang. Sanded the Mustang, reprimed and sanded it down again with 600. Ready to go to the paintshop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 The resin body has no lettering molded in and I will use the lettering from the PE set. The hood from the plastic fastback has lettering. Is it crisper than the PE would be? Also, if I use the photoetch lettering do I shave this one off first? I need to know this before I paint the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Aww man Pat!!! I feel for ya on that airbrush!! Glad you had the success on the Transam though!! I would assume that the letters have to come off of the hood before using the PE ones. I dunno....I think I'd leave the molded one's alone and paint those but that's me. I'd be real leery of the PE letters. Just my Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modlbldr Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 I also know your frustration with breaking the airbrush. I did that with mine the other day when all I had left to paint was the spoiler for the rear of my RSX. If I had gotten it painted on Thursday I could be polishing it on Monday during lunch. But NO. That couldn't be the case. Oh well. Looking good so far. Keep it up. Later- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted February 4, 2015 Author Share Posted February 4, 2015 Tried the paint over foil lettering. Didn't turn out as expected. Maybe they're too small or maybe I rubbed too hard. In any case it'll be the PE letters using the marker hole locating method outlined by Marcos Cruz in my PE lettering thread. Tried several rattle cans since my airbrush is broken. This looks like it might do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twokidsnosleep Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 That red looks good, she is going to be beautiful! Had a little air brush brain fart myself by adding the wrong diluent and spraying waaaay too much pressure. Three coats and nothing would stay on the body?!?!?! Grabbed a rattle can and had it done in 30 sec...sometimes old school ways work fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 (edited) Shaved of the letters & made some location holes. Masked off the engine compartment which had already been painted black. Tried my hand at paintin'er. The first photo was taken in the booth. The light in the booth gives it an orangey glow. So I took a couple on the bench. Edited December 12, 2020 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 From every angle I can see from here it looks like you've got yourself a winning paint job there. I seem to always have to take the extra time on the lighting and camera settings as well . Lookin good so far Pat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagercr Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Pat, the paint really pops! Looking good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 Thanks guys, I'm happy with it too. There are many dust nibs and small fibres on it. I imagine they'll polish out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 (edited) It lost a bit of a shine overnight but is still OK. Now for the next steps. I hope someone helps with this. This is how I think it should go: Leave it to harden Attempt to polish the nibs & fuzz with a clean microfiber cloth. If not sand with very fine paper. BMF, then clear or: Leave to harden BMF Clear Sand with very fine paper, re-clear Rub Please , I need guidance with this. Edited December 12, 2020 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 (edited) That's pretty much the same questions I had buzzing through my head on my Challenger build Pat. I need help with that too! Edited February 5, 2015 by mustang1989 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bad Nickle Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 If it was me I would very lightly sand before clear. Any dust that isn't removed before clear May show through. Also use a tack cloth as the last step right before you clear just my opinion. Good luck. Looks great so far!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twokidsnosleep Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 You are gonna get a number of opinions here, your paint looks good, but let it dry fully!! My suggestion would lean to the second method except BMF after you sanded....b/c you will scratch it up and have to redo the BMF; ask me how I know. So IMHO taken with a grain of salt, your mileage may vary: LEAVE TO HARDEN...like over the weekend even Wet sand gently to as fine as you want don't go through paint but get out the fluffs and dust Recheck you don't need any touch up spray areas you over sanded, repeat first two steps if you respray First, THIN clear and 24 hr dry minimum UltraFine wet sand if needed BMF, decals and other detail bits of PE Final clear coats, rub out, buff, wax if desired I always test out a small area before I do the whole car...paint varies It saved my bacon on my MG as my cut wax rub out on the door I tested took all the clear off. SO I decided no buff and wax on that paint, just polish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) Thanks Scott. I wetsanded with 1000grit. Managed to go through the sharp raised areas as you said not to do. So I gave it another coat. Got rid of the fuzzies. How do I smooth the bottom of the door shut lines? Edited December 14, 2020 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twokidsnosleep Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) Looks fantastic!!! Not sure where you mean to smooth, but go with as fine a paper as you can get your mitts on and LIGHTLY smooth You have done yourself proud here in my opinion I love the rolling frame under the car, had to take a second look to see it isn't a real 1:1 Will you do panel line black details??? If you haven't before and want to, try it out on your test Camaro. It is not to be taken lightly as easy to screw it all up http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=80880&hl=%2Bpanel+%2Blines Edited February 10, 2015 by Twokidsnosleep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 Did the panel lines with black wash and touched up the engine compartment. Not sure if I'm happy with it. It bled on the upper front of the driver's door. The joint between the headlight pods and the front fenders isn't that prominent in real life. I may touch that up with red paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twokidsnosleep Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 (edited) Shoot, it did get a bit much Can you tone the black down a bit??? Sorry I opened up my big mouth about it Edited February 13, 2015 by Twokidsnosleep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakshow12 Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 I would not have blackened the headlight or quarter cap lines as they are quite tight on the 1:1. Also black wash is not always the best. I just go a shade or two darker than body color. On that red I would use a maroon. It's just adding a shadow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 Did a bit of both.Washed the wash with mineral spirits on a q-tip then ran some red in the grooves to remove some contrast. That should do it. Will know better in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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