Twokidsnosleep Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 I got my fingers crossed for Ya on this wet West Coast side
slusher Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 Great looking color. I hope your plan worked to remove the black wash...
mustang1989 Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 Heya Pat. First off the finish on your Mustang looks great man! Secondly I found out quick on my Challenger build that the black wash wasn't gonna work so don't feel like the lone ranger with that dark wash application. What worked in military modeling world didn't here for me on the automotive side. Hope you're able to remove it successfully bud. P.S. I love that shop scene!!!! Gives it that nice 1:1 "under construction" look.
landman Posted February 13, 2015 Author Posted February 13, 2015 Looking back on the Marcos Cruz tutorial supplied by Scott, I found where I screwed up. This is my first time with resin and my first time with trying to deepen door opening lines. Marcos says to be careful not to "widen" the lines. Looking at them closely last night while trying to clean them up it is obvious that I got carried away with the scriber. Also perhaps I put too much pressure on it and chipped the material rather than peel it. Also, it think that if you did it "before" the last color coat with a light color like this, it might darken the recess just enough to accentuate the contrast. Chalk one up to experience.
landman Posted February 13, 2015 Author Posted February 13, 2015 It toned it down all right along with the "shine" around the seams. I wonder if the clear will cover all those differences or should I repaint the thing?
landman Posted February 14, 2015 Author Posted February 14, 2015 (edited) Well...3rd & final paint job. scuffed it with 1000 grit & shot it again. Next stop BMF & Lettering. Look at the positive, this is character building. In the bad old days I would probably have flung it at the wall. So I guess some things do improve with age. While I was pondering what to do with the Mustang, I built the Cat 1160 which will go in the race car hauler. Edited December 14, 2020 by landman
Twokidsnosleep Posted February 14, 2015 Posted February 14, 2015 Cool stuff Glad you re-sprayed her, it looks much better and will turn out more realistic with a HINT of panel lines Note the emphasis there I will furthermore keep my big mouth shut and just watch and fawn over your build PS I like the Cat engine too btw, now if you just do an oil wash.........
mustang1989 Posted February 15, 2015 Posted February 15, 2015 Man I hear you about the bad old days there Pat! You're puttin' alot of effort into this build and your patience and persistence will pay off. That CAT engine looks good as well. Lots of little "goody" detail on that puppy.
vintagercr Posted February 15, 2015 Posted February 15, 2015 Pat, I have been following this with great interest. Excellent work!
landman Posted February 18, 2015 Author Posted February 18, 2015 (edited) Figured the paint is dry enough to manipulate so took a break from the truck and started the battle with the BMF. Even managed to break a vent window post, which I had to repair. Please don't laugh. Edited December 14, 2020 by landman
mustang1989 Posted February 18, 2015 Posted February 18, 2015 Hang with it brutha Pat. Your persistence and patience is paying off.
slusher Posted February 18, 2015 Posted February 18, 2015 Nice foil. Glad the repaint came out great..
landman Posted February 18, 2015 Author Posted February 18, 2015 Thanks guys. Hopefully the rest of the windshield tonight. Then I have to address the taillights and the wheel opening trim.
landman Posted February 19, 2015 Author Posted February 19, 2015 (edited) Finished the windshield, wipers and wheel opening moldings. Noticed I had forgotten the one at the front of the hood when I took the pictures. Did it too. Edited December 14, 2020 by landman
mustang1989 Posted February 19, 2015 Posted February 19, 2015 It's looking better all the time. That chrome really brings the paint all out. Thank God for BMF!!! lol
landman Posted February 19, 2015 Author Posted February 19, 2015 (edited) Measured, divided and marked. That was the easy part. The letters are about the same size as the point of the knife. Good thing there are three MUSTANG on the fret , I was on the third G by the time the dust settled. Couldn't afford anymore Tiddely-Winks with FORD, there is only one set. The result-:so-so. But in all fairness and to ease my conscience, they look better with the naked eye than blown up like this. The first strip of masking tape (old) left a gooey strip on the paint. Will Goo-Gone remove that without damaging the paint? Oh to be neat like some of the folks on this forum!!!!! Edited December 14, 2020 by landman
microwheel Posted February 19, 2015 Posted February 19, 2015 Hi Pat, I personally think you did a good job with the script. When I work with any of the script stuff from the Model Car Garage, I usually apply it with Testors clear gloss lacquer (the stuff in the bottle) (their flat lacquer, if im putting script on flat paints.),You don't need more than a small drop in the area your putting the script and it holds good and gives a little moving around time. Not much, but enough to adjust if you get your part close to where you want it to start with. As for getting tape glue off the paint. I usually use Novus 2 which is a polish, and can be bought at most hobby stores, and it will clean up tape glue and smudges. I had so many issues with tape glue using regular masking tape, that I ended up spending a little extra at hobby lobby and getting Tamiya's masking tape from their model section. It comes in different wideths which is handy for both bodies and small parts and jobs, and it doesn't leave marks and glue behind when you remove it.
Twokidsnosleep Posted February 19, 2015 Posted February 19, 2015 (edited) Yep, Tamiya tape is the best A bit of Isopropanol on a soft cloth...notice I said a bit...and gently rub off the tape residue....notice I said gently Love the metal letters, they look perfect! Edited February 19, 2015 by Twokidsnosleep
om617 Posted February 19, 2015 Posted February 19, 2015 I would have used citrus spray adhesive cleaner for removing the glue,it does not affect paint. Mustang is coming along nicely.
landman Posted February 19, 2015 Author Posted February 19, 2015 Jim, I used the Pledge floor finish (my version of Future) to place the letters. Then I'll clearcoat over them....if I ever get an airbrush. Scott, is that rubbing alcohol? Or that denatured stuff?
Twokidsnosleep Posted February 19, 2015 Posted February 19, 2015 Isopropyl alcohol, IPA I think mine is 90%..dont rub too much or it will take off the paint http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isopropyl_alcohol
landman Posted February 20, 2015 Author Posted February 20, 2015 (edited) Tried the alcohol. It didn't seem to want to dissolve that gum. So I tried the GooGone and it worked. Tested it elsewhere first. Turns out after wiping it off it left a beautiful shine. So I shined the whole car with it. There won't be any clearcoating on this one. Worked on the grille. I wasn't able to attach it without smearing anything. So I took it off, sanded it clean and repainted it. Also worked on some of the engine compartment details. There is no starter solenoid so I made one. Edited December 14, 2020 by landman
Tom Geiger Posted February 20, 2015 Posted February 20, 2015 I think your photo etched letters look good. Nice job. I will echo Tamiya Tape! It's all about getting the job done right, so what's a few extra cents on tape? One tip, when I cut photo etch parts like those, I stick the fret to clear Magic Tape. and cut it with the tape on.The letters won't go flying.
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