Earl Marischal Posted December 27, 2014 Posted December 27, 2014 Although these are marketed for model railways, they could be adapted for vehicle use. They can be painted over too. http://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html steve
Bernard Kron Posted January 1, 2015 Posted January 1, 2015 I've used the louvers for several years now. I use the 6" O-scale item #AR88037 ( http://www.archertransfers.com/AR88037.html ). Here's an example: Curt Raitz built a superb largely scratch-built model of the 1923 Bugatti Type 32 "Tank" sports racing car using the rivets to very good effect (see http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=25634 ): 1
vintagercr Posted January 2, 2015 Posted January 2, 2015 Bernard, would you use the "O" scale rivets as well?
Bernard Kron Posted January 2, 2015 Posted January 2, 2015 (edited) O scale is their largest scale (it's 1/48th scale). If you're working in 1/24th or 1/25th then their O scale details are half size. The 6" O scale louvers I use correspond to 3" louvers on my 1/25th scale models. Any other scale is smaller and risks being too small. I've seen Curt's Bugatti Tank which is 1/24th scale, "in the plastic" (as opposed to photographs) and the O scale rivets show up quite nicely. One thing to realize about these parts is that they are fairly shallow in height. I wrote to Archer recommending they offer 1/24th scale versions of their parts for what I know would be a very large market where they would prove extremely useful, for example truck, race car, hot rod, kustom, rat rod and even fantasy and sci-fi vehicles. They wrote back and acknowledged they were aware of this but that the printing technology they used limited them to the thickness you see on their O-scale parts. Another caveat is that they are offered only in black. This means for very dark colors, like black, very dark navies, very dark greens, etc. they don't contrast well with the underlying color. Obviously they generally should be painted the underlying color but they need to appear darker so as to simulate the shadow cast by raised detail. If you allow for this it compensates somewhat for the shallow 1/48th scale height. I asked Archer about offering white, light gray or silver parts but again they said the technology limited them to black. Lastly, the parts are fairly fragile to apply. The good news is that Archer has published a video in YouTube (see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aptnvFeEqio ) which shows a simple technique that is close to fool proof, at least for me. I use it exclusively now and always try to recommend it to new users of these products. It's critical to success with them! In closing, I'll describe some observations about using these black, shallow surface details that will help use them successfully. As you'll notice in the photo above, they show up quite well under matte paints such as the hood above, which is finished in Testors Metalizer Aluminum Plate. I've found this is generally true, so much so that they cast a nice contrasting shadow even under relatively dark colors. When applying them under gloss paints you risk burying them under multiple layers of paint. To avoid this I generally will wait to apply them until just before my final color coat or even to just before my first clear coat. Then, after applying them, I spray a light final color coat to give them some of the underlying color. Because of their raised surface some of the color paint will crawl away from them, creating a darker hue and highlighting them. In the case of the louvers this simulates the shadow of the raised surface and/or the louver slot. Then I proceed with my clear coats. If I'm rubbing out my paint I try to avoid the louvered areas as much as I can. The result is what you see on the louvered trunk lid above. I hope all this is useful and I highly recommend them for what is often otherwise an impossible task. Edited January 2, 2015 by Bernard Kron
Big John Posted Tuesday at 05:39 PM Posted Tuesday at 05:39 PM Cool!!! Thanks for the lead!!! Louvers are always a pain.
peteski Posted Tuesday at 09:37 PM Posted Tuesday at 09:37 PM Archer shut down their business few years ago, but it appears that someone else restarted the company. Rivet and other details decals are now on https://www.archertransfers.com/pages/surface-details
Ace-Garageguy Posted Tuesday at 09:42 PM Posted Tuesday at 09:42 PM 4 minutes ago, peteski said: Archer shut down their business few years ago, but it appears that someone else restarted the company. Rivet and other details decals are now on https://www.archertransfers.com/pages/surface-details Yup. I was beside myself with glee when I saw that on a model RR forum.
Big John Posted Tuesday at 11:18 PM Posted Tuesday at 11:18 PM (edited) I see that Archer Transfers has G scale rivets and "fasteners" the net says that G scale is 1/24, has anyone used them? Edited Tuesday at 11:19 PM by Big John
Ace-Garageguy Posted Wednesday at 01:55 AM Posted Wednesday at 01:55 AM 2 hours ago, Big John said: I see that Archer Transfers has G scale rivets and "fasteners" the net says that G scale is 1/24, has anyone used them? The way they list the scales can be confusing for car modelers. Typical rivets on period railroad equipment are much larger than what you'd see on an automobile, so G-scale rivets will most likely be appropriate for heavy truck rivets (frames and structural brackets, etc.), or riveted parts of '20s-'40s car frames. I've used smaller scale Archer rivets on a Lindberg Jag D-type tub on an up-detailing project with good results. This was back when the original company was still making them, and they sold a "sample" sheet or kit with various sizes and spacings so you could easily figure out what you'd need for any model. It takes some thought and effort to get exactly the right look, but I think the potential results are worth it. I'm pretty sure at least one modeler on this board used Archer rivets on a modified COE truck cab (where the molded-in rivet lines were destroyed during the mods) in 1/24 or 1/25 with good results as well. 1
iamsuperdan Posted Wednesday at 02:36 PM Posted Wednesday at 02:36 PM On a related note, 3D printing rivets can be done. Not sure what I'll do with these, as I can't imagine not losing half of these the moment I tried them. But, the files were free, so why not try them?
peteski Posted Wednesday at 03:18 PM Posted Wednesday at 03:18 PM I would say that in most cases decals are much easier to deal with. No need to drill all those holes making sure they are perfectly spaced. Decal comes with rivets already aligned on the clear film and no holes are needed. 2
wayne00 Posted 18 hours ago Posted 18 hours ago This is what I used to replace the rivets on a Freightliner COE and the result Roc😃 1
Ace-Garageguy Posted 17 hours ago Posted 17 hours ago 24 minutes ago, wayne00 said: This is what I used to replace the rivets on a Freightliner COE and the result... That, sir, is some nice work.
Mr mopar Posted 14 hours ago Posted 14 hours ago Micro mark has some ..https://micromark.com/pages/rapid-search-results?srsltid=AfmBOooNPs_0CfxmOPSeM9dfNKQnnJMQHHU58ZIwea5Itoe3fQzKIrgQ&q=decal+rivits
wayne00 Posted 13 hours ago Posted 13 hours ago (edited) 4 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said: That, sir, is some nice work. Thank you, sir. Its what I did for the 2022 BRBO. Rog😃 Edited 13 hours ago by wayne00 1
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