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Posted (edited)

Welcome to the forum, Dan. This topic has been discussed at length several times. Click this link to see a bunch of threads on it. https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Amodelcarsmag.com+glue&oq=site%3Amodelcarsmag.com++glue&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i58.5745j0j8&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8

This particular thread has some excellent advice.... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/?showtopic=53800

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
Posted

I have several different types of "glue" on my bench. Each is used according to the particular application.

Testor liquid cement (MEK)

Ambroid Pro Weld (methelyne chloride)

J-B Weld epoxy

12-hour clear epoxy

Superglue (usually generic Walmart stuff)

Loctitle Superglue Gel

Elmer's or other white glue

Rubber cement

The one thing I NEVER use is tube "model glue."

Posted

There is many options. I like to use Model Master Liquid Cement for general assembly. For something that needs a little more bonding I'll use Plastruct Plastic Weld or Zap-A-Gap medium CA+. Windows , head and tail lamps I'll use Aleene's Jewwl-It or Future which does not seem to work as well on windows.

Posted

i always use the good ol trusty testors 0range tubes sometimes for more complicated stuff i'll use ca glues like zap a ap and zip kicker..... accelerator

Posted

i always use the good ol trusty testors 0range tubes sometimes for more complicated stuff i'll use ca glues like zap a ap and zip kicker..... accelerator

Posted

after years of Pacer Zap in its myriad of forms and Ambroid Pro-Weld (which i believe is no longer being made), i've started using Tamiya green & orange flavors. gives a longer working time than the first two. then there's the Micro crystal clear, Smith Industries 5 & 30 minute 2 part epoxies, JB Weld, Elmer's Pro-Bond.

Posted

IPS Weld-On #4. It's the same as Ambroid, Tenax-7 and Plastruct Bondene. It doesn't promote "blushing" on clear parts. Any halfway decent hardware store, a plastics/foam rubber fabricator or Grainger's carries it. A 4 oz. can, which will last for years, will set you back around 8-9 bucks.

Posted (edited)

IPS Weld-On #4. It's the same as Ambroid, Tenax-7 and Plastruct Bondene. It doesn't promote "blushing" on clear parts. Any halfway decent hardware store, a plastics/foam rubber fabricator or Grainger's carries it. A 4 oz. can, which will last for years, will set you back around 8-9 bucks.

Thanks for the Weld-On #4 heads-up. Didn't think of trying Grainger. Last time I tried to get a small can from the local plastic sign fab guys, they wanted $30 haz-mat packing fee plus shipping.

EDIT: I'm not finding it on Grainger yet, but Amazon has it for only $4.90 shipping.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
Posted

These 3 are the glue/adhesives I like to use.

For gluing bare styrene. Engine halves,sub assemblies and parts that need time for adjustments/alignment. This is my choice, been using it since i started building many years ago.

71VKQWuRX7L._SL1500_.jpg

For parts that are painted,chromed etc, dont require time for adjustment, use it as filler and sometimes use it on window installs. I like to use this, instant strong bond no fogging when using small amounts.

loc401_5.jpg

And for windows, lenses, clear parts, gluing various parts on finished assemblies and parts on the body after paint.

461053_1.jpg

Posted

i always use the good ol trusty testors 0range tubes sometimes for more complicated stuff i'll use ca glues like zap a ap and zip kicker..... accelerator

As" Mcloud" says "There ya go" LOL

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