Art Anderson Posted April 12, 2015 Author Share Posted April 12, 2015 Test fitting of the completed wooden dashboard and the steering column--it all fits! (even though perhaps the clearance through the dash for the column is just a bit smaller than I had hoped, but I'm not going to modify any further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Macleod Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 That looks right on. Well done! I can't wait to see the finished product. E- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 That looks right on. Well done! I can't wait to see the finished product. E- Well, if I don't run into any snags, it will be finished in time for NNL East. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadrunner Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Classy car. I'd like to see more of these stock efforts take place. I have a few of my own in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Looks terrific! The tire color and front wheel camber make it look very real. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirty Dave Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Art, everytime I look up one of your builds, it's like taking a master class. Bravo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadrunner Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Not the same car I realize, but I thought you'd appreciate this nonetheless. My father (behind the wheel), picked this up to restore, but unfortunately never did. It sat at our house for years, and I used to play in it when I was a youngster. This is one of but a very few photos that remain of this car, though there were more at one time. It's a '27 "T" I think, though that may not be correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 Not the same car I realize, but I thought you'd appreciate this nonetheless. My father (behind the wheel), picked this up to restore, but unfortunately never did. It sat at our house for years, and I used to play in it when I was a youngster. This is one of but a very few photos that remain of this car, though there were more at one time. It's a '27 "T" I think, though that may not be correct. No, not a 26-27, much earlier than that. I believe that the lower, narrower hood ID this as no newer than a 1923. (Eric McLeod would know for sure, I think) Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Macleod Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 First of all, thanks for sharing the photo. Art is correct. What we have here is a '17-21 Touring car with later style demountable rims (probably from a '26 or 27 based upon the size of them). While it is a bit hard to tell, based upon the 3 window rear curtain, two man top, lack of a front splash apron, early style body and non-crowned fenders this is probably about a 1917-1919 with slightly later front fenders (note the deeper skirting than the early fenders but no crown). It may even be a car assembled from parts but certainly a good restoration candidate. So, does the car still exist? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadrunner Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Good question, Eric, and thanks for the info. The car was sold years ago to a father/son team that intended to roadsterize it. Whether they did or not, I have no idea. The son already had a '32ish roadster that he routinely displayed at local and regional car shows, and intended to eventually show this one as well. The car was moved annually from our carport to a spot in the back yard (making space under the carport for grilling and entertainment in the nicer months), then moved back to the carport during the winter. It was at our house for many, many years. (I specifically recall getting the holy daylights stung out of me by yellow jackets one summer. They had been nesting under the dash, and I was unaware of that. Playing "driver" in the car, I apparently disturbed them, and they came after me with a bloody vengeance.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CabDriver Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Hi Art, I was really interested in this build - you really put the art in artisty! Just wondering, how does the size of the engine on this compare to the AMT 23 T Depot Hack kit, if you've ever built this? Close? I've been working on a super-detailed T project and I much prefer this bodystyle to the hack that I've got here - so I'd kinda like to put the engine I've built already in this kit if theyre close enough for government work... Thank you Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted May 9, 2015 Author Share Posted May 9, 2015 It's been quite a while since I posted up any progress. I had hoped to have this model done in time to take it to NNL East, but a major problem cropped up! Whether it is a design fault, or my own mis-doing, I do not know, but at any rate, the radiator would not set back far enough to capture the hood hinge part, by a considerable distance. So....with some careful, and I do mean CAREFUL!, study, I figured that the fan belt assembly mounts too far forward on the engine to allow sufficient clearance for the radiator, so that was removed, and the mounting pegs for it shortened as much as possible. Next, I thinned down the edges of the rear radiator part so that it fit deeper into the radiator shell--I think that should do it, but if necessary, I can sand off the front of the fan (like anyone will see that anyway!), all this enough to move the radiator back to where it has to be. Once that was done, it was time to figure out how to do the spark plug leads, along with the throttle and spark advance linkages (bear in mind that a '13 T engine relied entirely on hand controls, no gas pedal, and ho automatic spark advance! I added the appropriate lever arms to the rods on the sides of the steering column in the engine bay, with small holes drilled into their outer ends to capture the rods to actuate the throttle and the spark advance, Those are made from .015" K&S brass rod stock. As for the plug leads--those are pretty heavy, compared to any modern engine--given the very high voltage put out by Model T Ford ignition coils (grab hold of the output terminal of one of those, and with the engine turning over, the shock will almost knock you into the next room!). Those leads were insulated with either PVC (which has been available since the 1890's, or gum rubber--who knows now?) which was further armored by a finely woven linen sheath, which was then varnished--all in the name of protecting that insulation from both engine heat and the almost omnipresent oil! The plug leads presented a special problem, given their fairly large diameter, so after experimenting with annealed brass rod (still to hard, to stiff given the tight quarters!), I went for 20-gauge sterling silver wire from the jewelry department at Michaels--the most expensive wire I have ever bought! ($19.95 for 4-grams of the stuff, but still more than enough for a number of engines! The plug terminals were made by annealing some 18-gauge copper electrical wire, then squashing that flat with smooth flat pliers, finally drilling a hole in each one to make it slip over the top of each sparkplug (sanded to a round shape after all this), and then silver-soldered to the end of a short bit of that sterling silver wire. The throttle linkage is the only aftermarket accessory on this T. Due to ICM's not understanding completely a Model T engine, there is no cylinder barrel detail on the left side of the block (prominent on a Model T or Model A Ford engine block) with a gap between #2 and #3 cylinders, through which the carb linkage went--so I bought the "100 Miles Per Gallon Linkage, made by the Wiley Coyote owned ACME Company (Guarranteed or your money back!). I made the bell crank affixed to the cylinder head (under a head bolt), the actuating rods made from K&S .015" rod stock. For this, and the spark advance system, I made tiny little arms for the sides of the steering column, and extended the control rods on each side of that to stock length. Anyway, enough prose--on to pics of what it all looks like now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike 51 Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 (edited) Among other features.....I really like the horn bulb. Nice work Art. What ever happened to your Opel? Edited May 9, 2015 by mike 51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted May 9, 2015 Author Share Posted May 9, 2015 Among other features.....I really like the horn bulb. Nice work Art. What ever happened to your Opel? Opel was finished almost a year ago, in late August 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 This is beautiful!!! Your name fits the build!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my80malibu Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Amazing work Art, happy to be following along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Excellent, Art! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 Hi Art, I was really interested in this build - you really put the art in artisty! Just wondering, how does the size of the engine on this compare to the AMT 23 T Depot Hack kit, if you've ever built this? Close? I've been working on a super-detailed T project and I much prefer this bodystyle to the hack that I've got here - so I'd kinda like to put the engine I've built already in this kit if theyre close enough for government work... Thank you Jim Jim, I really dunno about the various sizes of T engines in scale--however, there might be some serious mounting problems between the AMT and ICM kits, given the difference between 1/24 and 1/25 scales, not to mention the 54 year span between the first releases of both kits. I did the '23 Depot Hack back when it first came out, in the mid-1970's, replicated the plastic body with one made in basswood (gave that to a friend here back then)--have in mind doing that body once more, but this time adapting it to the MUCH better AMT '25 Double T kit. Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Macleod Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Art, Your update looks great. The "ears" that operate the throttle and spark linkages are really something to see. Well done. I look forward to the next installment. It looks as if you are just about there. E- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 Finally, after a bit of a battle, the radiator now fits exactly where it needed to, will all the parts back on the front of the engine, where they needed to be--and the HOOD FITS as it should! Next up will be the Prest-O-Lite acetylene headlight system, then final assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted May 23, 2015 Author Share Posted May 23, 2015 Now that the radiator and hood fit problems have been resolved, it's on to the gas headlights! Prior to 1912, all automobile lighting was either by kerosene (yellowish, but very dim light) or acetylene gas--very bright, but a complicated system!). In the US, the biggest purveyor of acetylene gas lighting systems was Prest-O-Lite, located in what is now the Town of Speedway Indiana! It was Carl Fisher's Prest-O-Lite company, and the fortune that generated, which provided the capital for constructing the legendary Indianapolis Motor Speedway! But, I digress here (with all due respect to tomorrow's 99th running of the 500). The ICM kit comes with a plated acetylene generator, but not much more in this regard. There should be a small petcock (look to the left of the middle of the top of the gas generator--I added that, with a bit of 20-gauge sterling silver wire, squashed flat on the end with a pair of smooth jaw pliers. I then enhanced the rather faint "gold" color that ICM put on the "brass" parts, with a brushed on coat of Tamiya X-26 Clear Yellow--they all now look like polished brass, for sure! Next came the moisture trap/condenser, which is in pic #2, on the underside of the left running board. That was done by first making a disc in sheet styrene, sanded to a correct-appearing thickness, and then the condenser section made from the "elbow" corner of a bit of plastic sprue! I added the square plug detail with a tiny bit of .040" square Evergreen, to replicate what you'd put a monkey wrench to, in order to open, and drain the condenser! I next added the hoses, from Generator to Condenser, and from Condenser to the frame rail, with 20-gauge sterling silver wire from Michael's (I highly recommend this wire, regardless of it's EXPENSIVE cost, due to it's malleability, plus it's ability to withstand soldering!). The condenser was painted Testors 1147 Gloss Black, with the rubber tubing (that's what the sterling silver wire was used for!) painted ModelMaster #2009, a dead ringer for old-fashioned red rubber. Now, enough of the drivel, how about a couple of pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted May 23, 2015 Author Share Posted May 23, 2015 Under the running board: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 The headlights are now installed, which completes the Prest-O-Lite acetylene gas lighting system. For those just starting on one of these kits, the headlight brackets are an absolute bear to install--so take your time there! They do go on. I added the red rubber hoses which supply the acetylene produced in the Prest-O-Lite generator, which run from the base of the radiator on each side (on the real car, there would be a copper tube down the inside of each frame rail, to the headlights). This was done, as with the plug leads and the rubber hose lines at the generator and it's moisture trap to the underside of the left frame rail. All the "hoses" are painted with Modelmaster Flat British Crimson, which is a pretty good dead ringer for fresh red rubber from those days. I extended the sterling silver wire into each headlight, with the ends flattened slightly with some jeweler's pliers, to replicate the "spreader" shape of the top of each burner. It's getting closer! Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Macleod Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 You are nailing this one Art. Well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Nide work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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