DiscoRover007 Posted February 12, 2015 Posted February 12, 2015 BMF doesn't intimidate me at all. But then again I don't build classic subject matter. I build my favorite modern cars thats it. So I use BMF on interior/engine/and tail lights. I'm not risking scratching anything because I'm not using it for window trim.
my80malibu Posted February 12, 2015 Posted February 12, 2015 Nothing about BMF intimidates Me, However it's ability to adhere well angers me, especially around vent windows. I switched over to Testors foil, for a good long time but can't find it anymore. Do they still make it? For those of You that may have some difficulties, let me offer these two tips. First on windshield trim portions, use small strips pieced together, I like this better than one big Piece. Second on Some bodys like the new Revell 57 Chevy for example, it is helpful to rescribe the side trim, as they are molded a little shallow, and too much Two part clear can flood the original trim line. In this instance Scribing, will give a path for your knife to follow, even when clear is applied. Hope that helps. Gabriel
Snake45 Posted February 12, 2015 Posted February 12, 2015 Removing glue residue...... Try using Isopropyl Alcohol on a Q-Tip (not dripping wet)... it won't dull either the foil or the paint. True. It removes BMF residue most rikki-tik. It also removes Future, Testors/Model Master lacquers including One-Coat Wet Look Clear, Glosscote, Dullcote, and many of the Krylon paints. In fact, it removes pretty much everything except cured enamel.
Snake45 Posted February 12, 2015 Posted February 12, 2015 Oh, and I thought of another objection: BMF doesn't really look like chrome or stainless trim. It looks like...well, it looks like BMF.
Mike_G Posted February 12, 2015 Posted February 12, 2015 True. It removes BMF residue most rikki-tik. It also removes Future, Testors/Model Master lacquers including One-Coat Wet Look Clear, Glosscote, Dullcote, and many of the Krylon paints. In fact, it removes pretty much everything except cured enamel. It'll also affect some Tamiya lacquers WD40 and naptha will remove BMF adhesive residue and are pretty safe for most finishes
sbk Posted February 12, 2015 Posted February 12, 2015 ^^Never used WD40 for that, but use lighter fluid (naptha) all the time.^^
taaron76 Posted February 12, 2015 Posted February 12, 2015 WD40 and naptha will remove BMF adhesive residue and are pretty safe for most finishes That's good info, Mike! My current build (66 Shelby) requires you to BMF the two side-rear windows, versus the body like all the others. I'm sure I will have some residue to remove. Great tip! Tim
Mike_G Posted February 12, 2015 Posted February 12, 2015 ^^Never used WD40 for that, but use lighter fluid (naptha) all the time.^^ That's good info, Mike! My current build (66 Shelby) requires you to BMF the two side-rear windows, versus the body like all the others. I'm sure I will have some residue to remove. Great tip! Tim I'm glad you find my info helpful
Guest Posted February 12, 2015 Posted February 12, 2015 Oh, and I thought of another objection: BMF doesn't really look like chrome or stainless trim. It looks like...well, it looks like BMF. It does if you polish it.
StevenGuthmiller Posted February 12, 2015 Posted February 12, 2015 It'll also affect some Tamiya lacquers WD40 and naptha will remove BMF adhesive residue and are pretty safe for most finishes Ah!! I thought I was the only one who used WD40 for that purpose! I mentioned that in a different thread some time back & got flack for it because it will cause paint adhesion problems if you get it on a surface yet to be painted. I just squirt a little in a jar & keep it around for this purpose. A little bit on a Q-tip will take that residue right off. Just don't plan on painting over it & don't go spraying it around your shop like room deodorizer. Steve
Snake45 Posted February 12, 2015 Posted February 12, 2015 Ah!! I thought I was the only one who used WD40 for that purpose! I mentioned that in a different thread some time back & got flack for it because it will cause paint adhesion problems if you get it on a surface yet to be painted. I just squirt a little in a jar & keep it around for this purpose. A little bit on a Q-tip will take that residue right off. Just don't plan on painting over it & don't go spraying it around your shop like room deodorizer. Steve IIRC, a major component of WD-40 is just kerosene. I wonder if plain kerosene would do the job without the contamination from oil and other ingredients?
Art Anderson Posted February 12, 2015 Posted February 12, 2015 IIRC, a major component of WD-40 is just kerosene. I wonder if plain kerosene would do the job without the contamination from oil and other ingredients? Frankly, In my more than 40 yrs of using BMF, I've never had a problem removing any adhesive residues. Generally, I can simply wipe it off with an old cotton Tee shirt, or if not that--it goes away when I wax the finished model, and that's after the foil's been applied and trimmed. Art
Tom Geiger Posted February 12, 2015 Posted February 12, 2015 I love Bare Metal Foil. Nothing you can do to a model makes a greater change for the time invested than BMF. There is no step of building where you can do infinite 'do overs'. Don't like that last piece? Pull it off and try again. I was never intimidated, I pretty much took to it right away. I look forward to the part of building when I get to use it, and I actually find it relaxing. If you find it tedious, just set a goal to do a bit, then walk away. You should take a 5-10 minute break every hour anyway. If you worry about scratching the model body, you are putting too much pressure on the cut. You never need to put any more pressure than if you were lightly sketching the line with a pencil. The BMF cuts that easy, without scratching or digging into your paint.
Ace-Garageguy Posted February 12, 2015 Posted February 12, 2015 If you worry about scratching the model body, you are putting too much pressure on the cut. You never need to put any more pressure than if you were lightly sketching the line with a pencil. The BMF cuts that easy, without scratching or digging into your paint. Ahhh...now THAT is a helpful bit of info. Thanks.
DrGlueblob Posted February 12, 2015 Posted February 12, 2015 I recently got a Dream Tool I've wanted for many years. It's an old-school guillotine paper cutter. I can cut fine strips of BMF now and they're perfectly straight. But like Snake, I still use the Silver Sharpie and Micro Foil Adhesive 90% of the time.
disabled modeler Posted February 12, 2015 Posted February 12, 2015 Everything....cost,availability in my area,my hands ability.
jbwelda Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 I just think its kind of tedious, not necessarily intimidating. at one time I had problems with adhesion but then they seemed to fix that problem. before that I was using Detail Master foil and it curled way too bad when it was picked up. now my current sheet anyhow seems to behave pretty well jb
Art Anderson Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 Everything....cost,availability in my area,my hands ability. I generally order my BMF direct from Bare Metal Foil Co. Decent pricing, and fast shipping. Art
Roadrunner Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 For me (thanks goodness), most of the cars I really like, don't have much chrome to begin with, so adding a bit of BMF here and there isn't really a big deal.
StevenGuthmiller Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 Frankly, In my more than 40 yrs of using BMF, I've never had a problem removing any adhesive residues. Generally, I can simply wipe it off with an old cotton Tee shirt, or if not that--it goes away when I wax the finished model, and that's after the foil's been applied and trimmed. Art I usually don't get a whole lot either, & yes, it can just be rubbed off, but sometimes it takes a little elbow grease. The more you burnish the foil, the more the adhesive gets "spread" around. The WD is just an easy & safe way, (for the finish) to get it taken off quickly. Steve
Mike_G Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 IIRC, a major component of WD-40 is just kerosene. I wonder if plain kerosene would do the job without the contamination from oil and other ingredients? I'm sure it would. WD40 is mostly Stoddard solvent, which is is similar to kerosene, and light petroleum oil. There is no silicone or fish-oil in it as some people believe. Pure lemon extract also removes adhesive residue and leaves things smelling lemony-fresh
StevenGuthmiller Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 I'm sure it would. WD40 is mostly Stoddard solvent, which is is similar to kerosene, and light petroleum oil. There is no silicone or fish-oil in it as some people believe. Pure lemon extract also removes adhesive residue and leaves things smelling lemony-fresh Would work perfectly with a yellow paint job! Steve
Drake69 Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 Which type are you using Allen? the "Ultra Bright" stuff is really hard to work with IMO. I use mainly the original stuff, now called "New Improved". I cannot think of a time when I've ever had adhesion problems. as a matter of fact, I have more problems getting it back off if I have to remove a piece. Steve I double-checked my sheets and it is the "New Improved" ones, but they were bought over 2 years ago. When I first used some of it, it would stick to everything under the sun. Now it acts like the glue doesn't want to stay on the trim more than a few seconds before a stiff wind blows it around the model and onto the floor.
StevenGuthmiller Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 I double-checked my sheets and it is the "New Improved" ones, but they were bought over 2 years ago. When I first used some of it, it would stick to everything under the sun. Now it acts like the glue doesn't want to stay on the trim more than a few seconds before a stiff wind blows it around the model and onto the floor. That would be your problem. BMF does have a shelf life. I never have that problem. I usually use up a sheet about every three months or so. One thing I've heard is to store it in your freezer if you don't use too much of it. Don't know if that works or not. Never tried it myself. steve
Ridge Rider Posted February 13, 2015 Posted February 13, 2015 Personally, I never used it until last year, but I love it . I have 3 sheets of ultra bright that won't stick to anything. Sadly I paid good money for them. Now the regular chrome works like a champ. When the newly purchased ultra bright didn't work I tried some half used, wrinkly looking,15+ yr old chrome that I acquired and it worked fine. I would never recommend the ultra bright but the chrome seems very nice. I did pick up some black chrome and matte aluminum but have yet to use them. Does anyone have some feedback on these?
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