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What is it about Bare Metal Foil that intimidates you?


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I've seen a lot of Forum members post comments about using BMF. They either love it or hate it. Personally I love the stuff and once I started using it about 20 years ago I never looked back..!! I had success with it from day one. I won't say that it is my favorite chore in this hobby but I am not intimidated by it in the least. Unlike some builders, I don't find that it is overly expensive. You can afford to buy kits, glues, paints and XActo knives, so why not BMF?? Yes, there is a certain amount of waste when using it, but, there is also a certain amount of waste with using spray primers, paints, CA glues and epoxies. That's all part of the hobby IMHO.

So, what is it about using BMF that either intimidates you, or turns you off???

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I'm afraid I won't be able to accurately follow the chrome lines molded in to the body. I've seen lotsa wavy BMF, and frankly, I think silver paint (or nothing) looks better than bad BMF.

I'm also concerned about ruining a perfect paint job by getting wavy lines, and then peeling the stuff off, only to have it lift the paint where the knife blade scored it.

And, if there's the slightest orange-peel under the paint, or if the foil goes down lumpy or wrinkled, or pieced together, I think it looks horrible too. So many ways to foul it up.

Yeah, I'm intimidated.

I'm about to man-up and try it on a primered AMT '57 Ford gasser. Primered so if I totally bugger it, it's an easy fix. '57 Ford because it looks like a kinda tough one, so if I can do a decent job, I'll feel like I actually accomplished something.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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Wouldn't say that I was ever intmdated by BMF, but I certainly had been frustrated with the stuff at times!

Cost was also a factor for me. Living in Canada, there are so few vendors who support the hobby, let alone offer aftermarket items. The two locations within a 3hr drive of my home want $20+ per sheet! Thank god for on- line vendors & free shipping.

Now that I'm more experienced with the stuff, use it on nearly all of my builds.

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The thought of putting a scalpel blade down a long line of a good paint job intimidates me. Plus, very tedious work, and always in the back of my mind is the thought of not making an exact cut and going too far into the paint.

I think the price is okay, that's a lot of chrome trim on the sheet.

Rich, if I have a car that needs the stuff, wanna give it a whirl?

Michael

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It definitely took a couple of times to get good at it.I shouldn't say good at it but I feel like I'm improving every time I use it.The one thing that I don't like about it is the adhesive staying on the paint.Unless I'm doing something wrong I always have some adhesive left on the paint and its a bear to get clean.

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I've never seen another product that looks as good as BMF that actually looks like its supposed to, and I've never been fond of trying to paint molding, either. I wouldn't say I'm intimidated by it, but it can be tedious. However, I think the payoff of the outcome is worth it in the end. One package of BMF usually lasts me 4-5 builds, so if you break that up, it ends up being an extra $1.50 per build. There is no doubt that on builds like a '57 Bel Air, I wouldn't be able to emulate all the chrome it has with any other product or it get anywhere near the look of BMF.

Tim

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@Tim: I just built a 57 Bel Air and consumed nearly a full sheet of BMF. Talk about time consuming

The end result was worth it.

Steve - Did you cover the whole car? lol I bought of BMF a few months ago and it lasted 5 builds, to include my '57, and I had a little bit left over. When I cut it out, I only cut a tad bit over what the size of the area is. I'm sure that is what everyone does, but that's a lot of BMF for one build.

post146040873843001420169904-vi.jpg

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I was always intimidated by having to paint the chrome trim on cars back in the 50's -60's when I started. When I came back to the hobby in the 90's I fell in love with BMF! This was all the reason to start building again! I thought applying it was pretty easy, it just took a little thought and preparation to insure you had a good base and place to guide the knife. There is nothing even close to BMF for replication auto chrome.

Now, in my older years I do find my hands don't like guiding the knife along the trim edges as well ... maybe I'll try that '59 Chevy trim again!

As far as cost, I see many that are very wasteful when applying BMF. Putting a sheet on that covers all the window trim from top to bottom and end to end makes no sense to me. All that BMF in the window area is just wasted! I apply it in thin strips just wide enough to cover the trim and have edges to peel after cutting. I try to locate the ends where the trim joints are on 1:1 cars. Maybe these people don't realize the trim on 1:1 cars is applied in many pieces .. not one big piece that completely surrounds the windshield. The joints really add to the detail of the model when located realistically and you really have to look close to see them .. like on the 1:1 car. Do it this way and you'd be surprised how ling a sheet of BMF lasts .. ie. it's CHEAP!

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I like it. But I'm lazy too... so it depends on the mood I'm in.

I first used it on my 74 Barracuda a few months and had no issues. The only problem which wasnt a huge deal was the xacto blade not always following where I wanted to go. But I tried to be as careful as I could and it turned out great. I'm not intimidated by it.

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I'm not intimidated by it, I'm agitated by it. The glue adhesive they are using on it now does not adhere well to my models, and I end up wasting almost a quarter of the page before I get anything decent put on the car. They SERIOUSLY need to do something about that because it's getting to the point that I won't even bother with it anymore and would go back to using paint pens to draw my silver trim lines again.

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I have a love hate relationship with the stuff...i tend to be heavy handed while burnishing and tear the foil. for every piece i have success with i have one i've had to peel off and do over.it can be very frustrating to use. it definitely takes skill and practice to get it right. i absolutely love it over painting trim work.

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The high price and the fact that the last two sheets I bought just broke up and were useless. (I guess that's "shelf life" issues.)

Nowadays I use kitchen foil with Micro Foil Adhesive (wonderful stuff!), a silver Sharpie, and, in rare cases, Testor Chrome Silver (which is much improved over the silver paint we used in the '60s).

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Absolutely nothing about it intimidates me! As a matter of fact, it's become one of my favorite processes in building. I guess I've gained enough experience with it over the years that it's just become routine. In my opinion nothing "transforms" the look of the model more than a good BMF job. I will admit, it can be tedious & time consuming, but the transformation from before to after is amazing to me. I would rather not build than be without it! :) Steve

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I'm not intimidated by it, I'm agitated by it. The glue adhesive they are using on it now does not adhere well to my models, and I end up wasting almost a quarter of the page before I get anything decent put on the car. They SERIOUSLY need to do something about that because it's getting to the point that I won't even bother with it anymore and would go back to using paint pens to draw my silver trim lines again.

Which type are you using Allen? the "Ultra Bright" stuff is really hard to work with IMO. I use mainly the original stuff, now called "New Improved". I cannot think of a time when I've ever had adhesion problems. as a matter of fact, I have more problems getting it back off if I have to remove a piece. Steve

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I'm not intimidated by it, I'm agitated by it. The glue adhesive they are using on it now does not adhere well to my models, and I end up wasting almost a quarter of the page before I get anything decent put on the car. They SERIOUSLY need to do something about that because it's getting to the point that I won't even bother with it anymore and would go back to using paint pens to draw my silver trim lines again.

Allen - One of the things I was going to try was to put a tad bit of hairspray on an applicator and dab it on the spot where the foil is going to adhere to in order to see if it sticks any better. I always make sure I clean the area really good where its going to be applied to removed all of the wax or polish and anything that would prevent it from sticking. The hairspray is probably a long shot, but worth it since it can be cleaned off relatively easy in the event it doesn't stick, without any adverse issues.

Tim

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I cannot think of a time when I've ever had adhesion problems. as a matter of fact, I have more problems getting it back off if I have to remove a piece. Steve

Same here, Steve. I've never encountered any adhesion issues that weren't created by me. I.e., wax or polish...

Tim

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The high price and the fact that the last two sheets I bought just broke up and were useless. (I guess that's "shelf life" issues.)

I buy it directly from Bare Metal. It eliminates the shelf life issues and any sort of hobby shop mark up. $6.95 for a sheet and shipping is pretty negligible especially if you buy more than one sheet. They even have a how-to book for $2.50.

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I'm loving all of the responses in this thread.

Re the fear of cutting through the paint when trimming BMF...... If you apply several coats of good clearcoat over your paint, and don't press hard with your XActo blade, you shouldn't have the chances of cutting through the paint and having it peel up on you.

Removing glue residue...... Try using Isopropyl Alcohol on a Q-Tip (not dripping wet)... it won't dull either the foil or the paint.

Adhesion problems...... As long as you use BMF sheets labeled "New Improved" you shouldn't have problems with the foil sticking where you put it, although it does stick better to glossy surfaces rather than a part that has been painted with a flat finish. As Steven Guthmiller mentions, the glue on the "New Improved" BMF is so good that sometimes you really have to work at removing the unwanted foil after trimming it.

High price...... I guess it all depends on where and from whom you buy it. The most I've ever paid for a sheet of BMF is $8.00 and that was from a vendor at the NNL East show. For the past several years I've been buying at least a half dozen sheets at that show so I'll be sure to have enough on hand for all of the chrome-laden 1950's cars that I've been building. I find that I can do about 3 complete cars from one sheet. I use just about every little bit of foil on the sheet especially for tiny spots on emblems, door handles, vent window frames, dashboards, interior cranks & handles, ash tray covers, trim molding, etc...

I hate when you open up a new sheet of BMF and it is crinkled, wrinkled and/or bubbled. Then there is definitely going to be a lot of waste on that sheet because you have to cut around all those crinkles, wrinkles and bubbles. Back when I first started using BMF (in the mid 90's) it used to come packaged with a stiff cardboard backing piece so you never found any wrinkled sheets. The wrinkle problems started when they stopped using the cardboard backing. I assume they did that as a cost saving.

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The thought of putting a scalpel blade down a long line of a good paint job intimidates me.

CUTTING:

For long straight lines, rather than cut on the model, cut your strip with a metal ruler while it's still on the backing (a little trial and error for width is worth it). Every BMF job I do uses both techniques. Both are fiddly so might as well embrace it.

ADHESION:

If you polished your model first, finishing wax inhibits adhesion. De-wax/degrease first.

COST:

Same as the price of a can of Duplicolor spray paint and will last for many projects

Nothing intimidating.

LeftRearCannonball.jpg

Edited by Lunajammer
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