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fseva

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Everything posted by fseva

  1. Depends on what you're referring to as "acrylic"... I found out the hard way that using the name "acrylic" can also mean the new automotive paints - Acrylic Enamel and Acrylic Lacquer. So, if you're just referring to water-borne acrylics, the only sequence you need to remember is to use primer first, then your finish coat, and if the finish coat is dull, a clear coat, which will give it the shine you want.
  2. First of all, buy a glue that has a nice small applicator at the end. My current fav is Model Master, which has a metal needle (Testors also has one, but it offers a plastic needle instead). Even though it's very small, this applicator can still apply too much glue if you happen to press too hard on the sides just at the time you're going to apply the glue to a part. If you do, just wipe off the excess with a q-tip. I regularly use this glue for paint to paint applications - somehow, it seems to melt the paint right into the glue joint. However, this is not the preferred way, and it's not recommended, especially to someone who is unfamiliar with gluing. In your case, it would be best to use a little "poster tack" putty to keep the parts that are to be glued masked during painting. Then you will be gluing plastic to plastic and it should result in a very tight joint. Hope this helps, and if you need anything I've said clarified, I'd be more than willing to explain myself.
  3. Jimmy, Coast Airbrush says that Intercoat Clear makes a very good reducer! So, we were both right! I know there is a club that meets somewhere in my area, but I don't get out much and MCM is the only group I belong too. BTW, my order at Coast Airbrush was responded to with an email asking me to check the order and respond if any changes had to be made. This was great because I really wanted 4oz of the Intercoat Clear to try out. So, hopefully I'll find out today whether adding it to my existing order is going to be OK.
  4. Actually, I was asking about thinning HoK's clears... However, I just visited Coast Airbrush again and discovered that SG100 Intercoat is the same thing I referred to earlier as a "reducer", and it will be my clear if the Duplicolor fails to impress. I can also get it pre-reduced, in small quantities, and not have to pay Black Gold's outrageous shipping charge! So, I believe all of my questions have been answered. A big "Thanks!" to all of you who participated!
  5. Could I reduce the clear with lacquer thinner? I would hate to have to invest in a quart of reducer...
  6. Thanks for the explanation, Jimmy! At least now I know what to buy if I decide to airbrush the HoK clear, but I'll see how the Duplicolor acrylic lacquer works first.
  7. fseva

    50' Olds

    Wow - that's the nicest, most unusual "lowrider" I've ever seen, probably because I don't ever remember seeing a '50 Olds done up that way! And I can't believe it's acrylics - Auto Air, I take it? What did you use as your clear coat? It's very shiny... certainly as good as any lacquer I've seen!
  8. OK - I should be all set for my experiment. I ordered 2 2oz pre-reduced bottles of Kandy Base Coats; I read the spec sheet and found that you can use "acrylic lacquer" as your clear (which is required). I have some Duplicolor Professional Acrylic Lacquer in a spray can, and have decanted 2 oz for my experiment. I also noticed that a 1.3-1.5 needle/nozzle is recommended for airbrushing... Will I have problems if I use my Anthem airbrush (.75)? In regard to Black Gold, they sell clear in small quantities, but the label calls it "interclear", and I was under the impression that this was only a mid-coat for use when you're taping for a second color. Can anyone here explain? (Oh and the product number is SG10002, and the closest I could come up with at TCP was SG100, which I think was a reducer).
  9. Jimmy, I checked out the HoK prices at Coast Airbrush... while the actual colors are very reasonable in small quantities, the smallest clear they list (they are currently out of stock) is a quart at $48. Will keep looking...
  10. I tried airbrushing Future once, but it was so thin and watery, I had a devil of a time trying to get the surface shiny without creating runs!
  11. I checked them out, but their shipping charge for 2 2oz bottles was $16! That's just unacceptable...
  12. Are you referring to "One-Coat Clear"? I hope? I just received a supply!
  13. Yes Jimmy, this has been very helpful! Thank you!
  14. I'm not sure but I I think they are urethane-based, and that would seem to me to be somewhat different from the acrylic lacquers and enamels...
  15. Thanks, but I really need an alternative to these high-priced professional products...
  16. I would really like to try HoK, since they're available in 4 oz bottles at TCP Global. However, they do not seem to have a clearcoat in 4 oz bottles; in fact, the smallest quantity they sell would set me back about $24, which is more than I care to spend for an "experiment". So, what have you used as a clearcoat for HoK, that would be easier to find and cheaper? Thanks for your input!
  17. I don't know about videos, but I bought a vinyl top kit . . . I think it was by Model Car Garage . . . it has everything needed in it, and it was only about $6.
  18. Very nice! I've never seen the movie, but that's OK!
  19. fseva

    06 concept Camaro

    Hmmm... I thought that Createx colors were opaque? Or is this a new line of transparent colors?
  20. fseva

    06 concept Camaro

    Good job - it's gorgeous! Is the color Panther Pink by any chance? Just finished one myself in Panther Pink...
  21. Wow - I doubt they ever looked this good right off the assembly line!
  22. Depends on what you're referring to as "regular hobby acrylics"... Acryls are what I would call plastic model hobby acrylics. If you're referring to "craft" acrylics, those are mainly for use on porous materials. They are not very durable and I only use them if I want a custom interior - since they make excellent "brushables" and turn dead-flat when dry, they're acceptable for car interiors, but they may be a little too flat, and you may want to try something else. There is a line of craft paints that are satin when dry... Decoart Americana Satin Multi-Surface Acrylic Paint. It's available at craft stores (I even found it at Home Depot) and it's dirt cheap. I've only tried one of these, and I think they went on very similar to flat acrylics.
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