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Everything posted by fseva

  1. I gave up on my AMT 65 Bonneville - really hated that one-piece chassis; so, that must have factored into my eventual setting aside of the kit. Was trying to deal with the front bumper. I had the horrible mold parting lines cleaned up and fairly nicely covered with BMF. But then I started on those hideous chromed headlights, and that was my Waterloo. I was attempting to do what Steve G said he's doing now - drilling them out and replacing them with buckets. Well, I have a lot of extra buckets, but not a single one that would have been easy to work with. On the third bucket, which was at the to
  2. Welcome to the fraternity! I finally bought a set of decals from Fred Cady! I have learned some good tips here that might help you in the future... Use a clean rag or a sponge dipped in hot water, and press it onto the decals you want to conform. Although I've never tried it, you could also use a hair dryer, but you must keep applying the solvent 'cause the dryer will... wait for it... dry out the decals!
  3. I love how beautiful that Anthracite Gray looks... almost like a black pearl, with a very satiny finish. Excellent work! I wish Testors would do that one in lacquer. Can't take the odor of their enamels. Also, an engine that is really miles above kit quality! But man, a 5-year commitment? You're the olympic athlete of model car builders!
  4. fseva

    67 GTO

    I love that Mica Red! I do all my photo-taking inside, where I can be assured of a consistent light source. I have recently started to use the "daylight" setting for white balance, with flash, and it's produced the most realistic looking photos... just as if it were outside.
  5. I bought a new Grex airbrush with the pistol grip, and was very disappointed with it. This was a while ago, and I'm not quite sure why I put it aside, but I recall having a difficult time cleaning the thing... I wish I could be more specific, but it's just not there right now...
  6. The only time I use my Krome (.23mm) is when I need to get really close and minimize overspray. I would never consider using this brush for an entire body. In fact, I wouldn't even do a hood with it! My favorite combo right now is .75mm, which comes stock in my Anthem, and I have changed out the standard n/n in my Patriot (comes with a .5mm) to a .75mm. According to the Iwata online manual, the only option for this brush is a .5mm, which would help but I have 2 .5mm Iwata airbrushes, and they are very nice, but I get more mileage out of the .75mm setups, and there's less of a problem with heav
  7. I would ask you to check the diameter of needle/nozzle... I have a feeling it's probably a bit smaller than .5mm. If you have in the range of .2-.3mm, you have a "detail" airbrush, and it would not be great on an entire body... you might overcompensate for a seeming lack of paint flow by holding the trigger down, which will cause more paint to be applied, but in such a tiny stream that it could easily be in the process of curing while it's hitting the surface. BTW, if you have this "sandpaper" effect in primer, you can just sand it smooth. Then, reapply where you've cut through to the raw plas
  8. How about "liquid glass putty"... http://www.amazon.com/Crazy-Aarons-Putty-World-Liquid/dp/B004L13EXE/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1448732799&sr=1-1&keywords=liquid+glass+putty It comes in colors, as well as phosphorescent and metallic. I'm thinking of using the clear because it would show what you're trying to hide while you're applying it. Anyone tried it yet, who could comment on it?
  9. I think he implies a significant wait because of the "free" shipping he uses. Also, I have noticed that receiving a shipping notification only means he has made a label for the package. I've seen it be several days before he actually takes the orders to the post office! Also, I offered him some photos for his "gallery", and that was about 6 weeks ago, and the page is still broken. I have had 2 small orders fulfilled during this time, and while it was a couple of weeks to receive them, they came through just fine. At one time, he was in the process of catching up to the sale he had running, and
  10. I used Inca Gold as a base for Candy Apple Red that looked very nice in some spoon tests, but never actually tried it on a car body... Just kind of lost interest in 2-step paint jobs.
  11. Any type of chemical solvent (Windex, Simple Green, etc.) could be used, but it would take a considerable amount of experimenting to determine a ratio that worked without damaging the paint in the process. Craft paint has no designated reducer, like other acrylic paints. However, I have had good results using Airbrush Medium by Liquitex. It has everything needed to thin craft paint, including a small amount of H2O. Unless your airbrush has a large spray head, you will still find that a 1:1 ratio might not be enough to airbrush craft paints. My recommendation would be to use acrylic paints tha
  12. Did MPC ever start using "modern tooling", like AMT did in the late '80s?
  13. fseva

    60 Impala

    Wow - there ain't nothin' basic about that fine paint job... so,what's in the trunk?
  14. Thanks Steve... I'll give that a try next time!
  15. Steve, how do you keep the BMF from wrinkling in that concave space?
  16. You actually have to delete unneeded photos twice! Once in the personal gallery, and once in the body of the message.
  17. My favorite and most useful airbrushes are those that are equipped with .75mm needles and nozzles.
  18. Siphon feed has its uses... when you need to cover lots of plastic (like an entire body and maybe even an interior), you won't want to keep refilling a gravity cup every few minutes. Consider that when you run out of paint, all that dry paint in the bottom of the cup can break away and get into your newly added paint.
  19. I personally think you're going to be sorry you fell for the manufacturer hype about ever-smaller needle/nozzle combos in "detail" airbrushes! Sure, they will spray just about anything, but you have to reduce then to the point where they resemble water. I have found that my best airbrushes use a .75mm n/n. I believe the Talon has a setup that is very close, and I think there are 3 setups in the TG-3F. The largest one is what you will no doubt be using with acrylics.
  20. fseva

    `49 Merc Rod

    An excellent choice!
  21. fseva

    `49 Merc Rod

    I love the satin black! That couldn't have been easy!
  22. Or, you could simply dump the "craft" acrylics, which are made for... wait for it... "crafts"! Not plastic models. If you want to stay with acrylics (because of the lack of odor and toxicity), I would recommend a brand that is made just for airbrushing... and that would be... Aztek Airbrushables. (You could save the craft acrylics and use them on interiors only - that's what I do - just remember that they are very touchy. So, don't plan on experimenting with embossing powder or flocking - the liquid glue you'll need to use will really mess up your craft acrylics).
  23. I can't imagine how you could have made it better! And it's nice to know that I'm not the only one who forgets the inside mirror!
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