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Everything posted by fseva

  1. I was referring to the 50 Olds Custom. They are close, but the white doesn't go all the way to the ridgeline, which would seem to be the outer boundary for a wide-white like pictured on the box. Do they call them "Fiesta Caps"? Hmmm... wonder where I got the "sombreros" name from... I have not received the replacement tires yet. Revell asked me to send the UPC code from the box. Btw, these caps are a dog to get into the tires - even when you insert from the rear, which is preferable because of the danger of damaging the whitewalls when inserting/flexing the tires from the front (like the inst
  2. So, do you think "Frank" meant 100% free, like Revell does?
  3. One of the top builds I've seen so far!
  4. Which Frank are you talking about - not me?! The $2.95 was what they quoted... I have no idea if that's the parts fee or the postage...
  5. Just thought I would relate my experience with replacing the front bumper on my 1965 Satellite. I emailed Moebius and they replied saying that if I wanted a replacement, it would cost $2.95 and that I could Paypal it to them. This is for a part failure that technically was more their fault than mine - all I had tried to do was remove some fingerprints, and the chrome was so thin, it took only a few seconds with a shop towel to start removing it! Regardless of whose fault it was, I was glad to spend $2.95 instead of having to pay for a new kit!
  6. Well, I was attempting to build the car on the cover of the 1950 Olds Custom, which used humongous whitewalls that were sadly not included in the box (there is a raised ridge but the white stops well short of it). Also, I'm assuming the Sombrero wheels would look great with the huge whitewalls...
  7. You mean just the frame around the glass, right? Yes, I can see how that stands out from the green. I personally think that you've got the right solution - just carefully paint the edge where it's showing up white with the green.
  8. I sort of forgot to mention that the alternator and bracket came from my parts stash, as did the fan. Nice catch!
  9. This kit comes with a flathead engine, and another that I would really like to identify - it's very classy looking, and I had to assemble it by trying parts out, because there was nothing about this engine in the instructions. So, put your thinking caps on guys, and tell me what kind of engine this is... thanks!
  10. I have always had great success in ordering replacements for the chipped-up ones, through Revell's customer service. Never got one that wasn't in perfect condition. So, do you think these (the ones shown on the box) were printed incorrectly for the kit?
  11. So, you've used 120 degrees without a problem... Mine is adjustable... I've never gone over 105 - so maybe I'll set it up a little higher! Thanks!
  12. If it hasn't been mentioned already, make sure you use a 600 grit on the existing purple before priming it.
  13. You did a fabulous job! Really top-notch!
  14. Yes - the aperture is fixed. So, you can't change depth of field. Too bad... if anything would make your models look even better, it would be the photography.
  15. I've heard 105 to 110 degrees is the highest you should use on plastic...
  16. I always liked the Cool Pix line! Is it a SLR (single lens reflex)? If it is, it would surely have the ability to set the aperture, and that's the main thing that will give you better depth of field. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about the fuzziness at the other end of the car... you can even get that on a partial side-shot, and really, nobody is going to notice when your fab models' most visible parts are in the foreground!
  17. Revell was having a big problem with their promised whitewalls, since they did not make it into the kits they were promised to be in. They did send them out to hobbyists who requested them, and that seemed to take care of the problem. Well, now I have built the Custom release twice, and I have discovered a new problem with the whitewalls in this kit... They were supposed to be very wide whitewalls, as shown in the box art, but they were printed wrong! There is a small raised line of vinyl marking the extreme width of the whitewall, but they did not follow this line. Instead, whoever did the wo
  18. You could use a small piece of Silly Putty to cover the object - press it down and around the emblem so that it's entirely covered, without hiding surrounding details. Then, once your painting is done, just remove it.
  19. YES - that's exactly what I meant! Thanks! You can make some adjustments on your camera to keep more of an object in focus - start by adjusting the aperture - the smaller, the more will be in focus. While setting the aperture, you may have to compensate by slowing down the exposure time, but when it goes from 1/120th of a second to 1/60th, it's still fast enough that you can take the picture without a tripod. Thanks for the suggestion about panel lines! I will apply it in the future!
  20. Just fab! As usual! I would really like to see a few shots of your models with the front and back featured predominantly... don't know for sure if this is called "3/4" view??? Also, what is your chosen technique for accentuating panel lines?
  21. In my experience, any clears over Alclad will cut down significantly on the reflectivity of the paint. My recommendation would be to use a gloss black, then Alclad, then leave it alone until it's fully cured. Try to keep from handling it as Alclad can be damaged from skin oils.
  22. Have you tried to repair this spot? Spray some Duplicolor into a plastic cup and apply it with a fine brush. Leave each coat dry, and build up the layers until you can hardly see the patch. Also, it doesn't look like you used a primer before the Duplicolor... unless it was white... This might have been preventable if your primer was solid...
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