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Everything posted by fseva

  1. The engine bay looks very clean and sweet! Just fyi, I glued the sides of the hood to the top, to make sure they were correctly positioned, and then you can remove the whole thing for photos of the engine bay!
  2. That wrap-around spoiler really looks nice!
  3. I checked it out, and "scribing" wood grain is what it's about... I don't know about the rest of you, but most of the "wood" in our kits is already nicely "grained" from the factory. What we really need is a bullet-proof technique for finishing this faux wood...
  4. I love both Tamiya white and gray, and the nozzle is so good, I actually apply it straight from the can! However, I don't believe these primers are strong enough to use under the new acrylic enamels/lacquers. For that I have had good success with Exact Match light gray primer by Duplicolor, which I decant and apply with an airbrush. I tried Duplicolor's regular gray primer, and it's way too dark.
  5. I generally like to use synthetic brushes. So, there are no issues as with natural bristles. I bought a brush-cleaning jar made by Loew-Cornell, and it comes with pads that sit at the bottom of the jar. There is a layer of soft cleaning bristles attached to the top of the sponge. You use it by filling the jar with water, and with a brushing motion, gently clean the brush on the soft bristle surface. Early on, I was using Simple Green instead of water, but that did a number on the pads. So, now I only use water, and it works fine on most types of acrylic paint I have on hand, including Humbrol,
  6. I agree with Matthew... for general airbrushing of hobby products, don't buy anything smaller than .5mm. I have a Patriot that I installed a .75mm in, and it works great, especially for metallics, etc. I also use an Anthem with a .75mm, when my paint session requires more than a single gravity cup of paint. It works very well. I find that my problems start with a .5mm Iwata Revolution, if the paint is heavier than milk. The only time I have a need for a finer point is when I'm shooting Alclad or any of the other chrome substitutes. It just allows me to better control the amount of paint I appl
  7. I like the whitewalls on one side and the redlines on the other!
  8. fseva

    1941 Plymouth

    Man, if that's warped, I can't tell... it looks sweet to me!
  9. Very pretty! I've got one in the works that uses Ivy Green, which is one of the colors on the box.
  10. Hmmm... I thought the main purpose of primer was to provide a surface that would be able to handle "hot" paints... Sealer has always been recommended as something that would prevent "bleed-through" of a bad color of plastic (red, etc.) showing through the primer. No?
  11. They do make an acrylic enamel clear, that should work well over automotive enamels... http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DA1692-Crystal-General-Purpose/dp/B001DKPL14/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1442072689&sr=1-2&keywords=duplicolor+clear+coat
  12. Yeah, and someone said Meijer's had Duplicolor, which proved to be incorrect after our Meijer's opened. Just saying that you can't always expect it to be the case, especially if the company doesn't see a need to advertise the product through their website.
  13. Don't count on it... I did a search at their website and there was no listing for Testors enamels...
  14. i generally will use the decant/airbrush system with it. I, like you, do not care for the flat blacks out there... for some reason, it's too easy to get a build-up of paint, which really looks bad and has a noticeable texture.
  15. Smelly enames... for home improvement? Yikes!
  16. BMF is overkill if the spot is no bigger than a "spot". I've used it where all the chrome is wearing off on bumpers and it's the closest thing to chrome you'll get. For those "spots", I find that a silver Sharpie is all that's needed. Actually, you're only concerned that the white plastic does not show through, and a Sharpie will cover those, but it's still no where close to chrome, and most chrome paints are a poor alternative if you hand-brush them. The best of the chrome brushables is Vallejo's Liquid Silver (IMO).
  17. I would recommend Model Master Lacquer semi-gloss black. It's available in a rattle can, at a very reasonable price.
  18. They are manufactured for Micro-Mark by Vallejo, but the formulas are supposed to be color-matches to the defunct Polly-S colors. I found the "Engine Black" to be the right color, but not as good coverage and not as flat as Polly-S. However, some of the general Polly-S colors are available in the Model Master line. I was happy and surprised to find that their Engine Black is everything the Polly-S paint was!
  19. Well, that may be the case but Micro-Mark makes Polly-S color replacements, which was the biggest factor in my interest in them.
  20. Basecoats are normally flat, and therefore require a clearcoat to make them glossy. This comes from the automotive world, where this procedure has been in effect for many years. Testors' Automotive Lacquer System is like this, although I have found that some of their basecoats do develop some of their own gloss. However, it may not be enough for the surface to be able to take handling, etc. So, they still recommend a clearcoat. There is a clearcoat in this line, but I like their 1-Coat Clear, mainly because it's cheaper than the Auto-System's clear. The 1-Coat line is glossy metallics, and do
  21. That's wierd... Hobbico would probably not have shut down Floquil and Polly S. Apparently, RPM is only interested in Model Master and Testors brands... It's a shame because I've used one of the new acrylics that is supposed to replace Polly S Engine Black, and it's not as good as Polly S. I'm still looking for another alternative, and I'm waiting on an order from the US-based website of Humbrol. I ordered 10 of their acrylics and I'm hoping that they will be better than Micro-Mark's Polly S replacements...
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