fseva

I use nothing but lacquers... and that could be the problem right there... Everything I airbrush is lacquer-based, and my blacks are frequently Duplicolor - more so the satin and gloss. I'll have to give this one a try... nobody has mentioned Bleche-White... I know that works great on chrome, but how about paint? I use nothing but lacquers as well. I never have problems removing multiple layers of Dulpicolor & MCW lacquer & either Duplicolor or Testors clear coat. It does take some time however. It won't happen over night with lacquer. Plan on a week or two to take it all off. It helps to scratch up the surface of the paint in a few spots to help to get the solution under the paint to the primer. The only problem I have with Super Clean is completely removing the primer on occasion. Steve, I can see now that I was expecting it to work too quickly - thanks for the suggestions!

I've been thinking of purchasing this kit and was wondering if there are any reasons not to... tried Googling it here, but could not find a review... It's probably a reissue of the "Boomer Bucket" (2977).

I use nothing but lacquers... and that could be the problem right there... Everything I airbrush is lacquer-based, and my blacks are frequently Duplicolor - more so the satin and gloss. I'll have to give this one a try... nobody has mentioned Bleche-White... I know that works great on chrome, but how about paint?

If all you want to do is rough the surface up for a repaint, you could do that with 600 grit, without giving it deep sanding scratches. However, it is difficult to see what your problem is - the photos seem to make it look pretty good for gloss black! Exactly what is this paint you're using - it could be several things in Testors small bottles - enamel or acrylic, or even lacquer (although I'm not sure they package lacquer in these small bottles).

I tried "Super Clean" and "Purple Power", and didn't find them to be very good for stripping paint. I am wondering now if these haven't changed, in an effort to become more eco-friendly? Is "Castrol Super Clean" really the same as "Super Clean"?

Thanks Ace! It was the "IMG" option that was not showing - I found the "options" button and it's working great!

How do you link to Photobucket so that the photo automatically appears in the topic, just like it would if it was stored here at MCM? (I've been able to figure out everything else, but this one has me stumped...)

Thanks, Bob - I'll just be patient!

I asked about this before the software update, but I'm afraid my request got lost in the shuffle... I have not found a way to delete old unwanted albums. Also, right now, the gallery looks 100% broken - all links are showing the dreaded broken image. Any suggestions would be welcome...

From one old man to another, you did a great job! Chevelles are among my favorite muscle cars!

I would choose the one that has the clearest, deepest lines, because those are what you'll be following with your knife. Nothing like a line that's so poorly rendered as to be almost non-existent!

I don't think it can detract from the view unless it's poorly done... if it keeps all the new wiring relatively similar to actual wiring, then in my opinion, it can only enhance the model. However, the problem I have with so much of this detailing is NEVER seen by anyone, including the builder who could easily display the model with the hood down. I have found for myself, that even engine wiring is too much work IF I intend to display the model with a closed hood... and that has been the case 100% of the time since I display in an enclosed acrylic cabinet, and open hoods could actually wind up striking the shelf above it, and regardless of that, how many folks are going to look that closely so that they actually can determine what you've done? Now, if you're building for a contest, that's another story, one which I defer to others who've actually done so...

I saved 7 of your photos to remind me of this great build! Thank you for posting them! I especially liked the excellent engine compartment. Keep up the good work!

I had been using Simple Green for paint stripping, but sometimes it just didn't seem to have any effect at all, even after an overnight soak. I just tried Super Clean, and in a matter of minutes, I could see paint color floating around in the mix!

Probably not, but it sure was something new on eBay for once! First one I've seen!

I have used Mike's tire decals with excellent success! However, this particular problem has happened to me when I left the decals in the water too long, and the adhesive just floated away into the water. I now generally use room temp water and no more than 30 seconds fully submerged. Then, I take them out and check to see if they have loosened up. If they are easy to move around, I place them on the item. Also, if you have a really rough dry surface after removing the raised letters, try to get them nice and smooth by using finer and finer grits, almost as if you're polishing them. If you still have a problem, you can brush on a coat of acrylic clear gloss, and then apply the decals. Hope this helps!

I found a can of Chrysler Yellow, and I tried that on a spoon, and then used the Tamiya red over half of the spoon... other than the overlap area, which allowed some of the yellow to show through, I couldn't see much of a difference... except that it took more paint to cover the yellow.

I would airbrush it on, with very low pressure and very thin. That will also help contain some of the overspray. Also, if the area can be masked using body lines as a guide, you could just mask the panel that needs the work, and that also would keep overspray more manageable.

The 2+2 was just a potential buy. I have decided not to pursue the one I saw on eBay.

That's kind of the way I approach each instance. Sometimes, it's very easy to use one finger to hold a part in place, while applying glue with the other hand. There are times when you need some glue to be there before you place the part, and for this I have been using Pressure Sensitive Glue by Micro-Mark. The problem with this product is that if you don't be careful in how much glue you apply, after the part has been installed, if there is glue that hasn't been covered by the part, it can easily attract dust, pet hair, etc.

I love the Tamiya nozzle, but I don't think they're interchangeable with the MM, are they?

A bilge blower is supposed to remove the "bad air" from the bilge area of a ship. Can't imagine why it wouldn't be "safe"...

OK - I received my compass cutter and put 2 strips of Tamiya tape overlapping on a nice clean surface. I was able to scribe pretty near perfect circles. However, even though my blackwalls had a nice line where I wanted to place the tape, no matter how hard I tried, I could not get the template to follow the guideline, and even a micrometer off and I could see the errors so easily that I have decided to use AMT whitewalls instead (which is what I had been using before this discussion).

Just for your information, I found out today that wide whitewalls were discontinued by all manufacturers in 1961!

I have a supply of this glue in the pipeline. I understand it is a thick glue - how do you apply it, and do you apply it to the clear glass or the frame for the glass?