fseva

The tip size is only important to control the AMOUNT of Alclad you apply... a smaller nozzle will spray less product, and consequently, you'll have more control, which is essential in that you do not want to simply lay on the chrome like you would paint. You need to inch your way forward to full coverage, and then... STOP!

And that's exactly where the crack is! I take it any clear blue would do... like Tamiya clear in the bottle? I might give that a shot! Thanks!

See my last post on the first page...

In my latest problem experience with decals, it was a matter of having the visible surface of large stripes looking really bad - the easiest way to describe it is to think of "water spots", but these don't want to come out. So, the best thing to hide them is to give them 1 or more coats of clear. That sure did the trick for me!

Guys, I am working on an AMT 64 Mercury, and I noticed that the windshield as a "crack" at the top, that is very visible. This is not a scratch that could be polished out - the rough feel of the crack that you might expect from looking at it, is just not present. I know that this would be a longshot, but has anyone ever had the opportunity to work on such a thing?

Wow - I never thought a "promo" could look so good!!!

If I was the newbie asking this question, I would not have thought his comment was "refreshing"... rather it was brusk and elitist.

You have to be real careful with lacquer over decals. Your best bet is to take an unused decal from the sheet that came with the kit, apply it to an unused part of the kit (or a plastic spoon) and give it a couple of quick coats of your chosen lacquer. If the decal looks fine after the lacquer is dry and cured, you know you can use that technique on your model. If you haven't already chosen a clearcoat, which may be needed depending on your basecoat, I would suggest that you use your chosen clear over decals... but still do a test, off-kit. Good clearcoats are made by Testors (One-Coat Clear), Model Master (Auto Lacquers) and Tamiya (TS13). I personally use Testors One-Coat, mainly because it's the cheapest of the 3.

Just thought you guys might like to see how it turned out... Make sure you look at the full-size photos (the small photos are very compressed, and the Bright Mica Red Ferrari paint job looks awful)...

Thanks Bill!

Thanks Rick!

I started to look at the underside of the body/w interior tub installed. There was a little bit of shifting around that I could do, and the lip of the firewall was slightly above the level of the tub surface that contacts the chassis. So, I took care of that. Everything else looked pretty good... accept the fact that the body now looked slightly too far forward. After checking this out, I realized that what was happening could only be corrected by removing the pins in the chassis that align to holes in the bottom of the tub. They were holding it in place, but actually the wrong place. Once I was able to move the body back about a 1/8", it lined up much better with the fenders, and I glued it all in place. Thanks so much to all who offered me constructive guidance in this matter!

Yes, this is very helpful, Michael - thanks for the info!

Here's the thing... I test-fitted the interior tub on the frame and the 2 pins lined up perfectly and it sits nice and even on the chassis. Now, when I install the tub inside the body, I get the problem I asked about, and yet, the tub seems to fit just fine inside the body!? So, I'm wondering why I can't get it to nestle down to the fender on the driver's side rear...

Realized that and already indicated... My problem seems to be the rear driver's side...

Actually, I should have explained that I'm building the full-fender version. So, the fenders and the running boards are installed.

I take it you've had a LOT of experience with MCW resin kits?

Those seats look like exact copies of the ones in my 64 Mercury Marauder. Of course, that doesn't mean they were first used in this kit. They may have been standard seats in many of AMT's kits.

I'm currently working on the Good Guys version of the Revell 1932 3-window Ford, and I'm to the point where I want to attach the completed body to the chassis... It's a tough go, and the left side just does not want to seat to where it needs to be... If you have any clues as to what I should do to make this go smoother (I don't really want to do a lot of surgery, with the body module already painted and finished), I would appreciate your help.

I use a hobbyist bottled gloss acrylic clear to give the sidewall some shine before applying decals. This may not be necessary if the sidewall is slick enough. In the case of having removed old black raised lettering through sanding, you will probably need this just to restore the look of the rubber. Then, I use another bottle of hobbyist acrylic flat clear after the decals have been applied. I feel it's necessary to handbrush these coatings because I generally insert the wheels to help align the decals, and I don't want to coat them, or it could affect the chrome.

I have used Fireball and while the variety is great, there are a couple of negatives - first of all, the resolution isn't all that great, so that a "W" looks like a filled block. Secondly, they are printed on decal paper which must be cut very carefully to minimize the amount of clear carrier you get when the graphics are cut out. That having been said, how do SEL's tire decals compare?

There really isn't much choice right now... The best transfers were by Shabo, but they're out of business and no one stepped up to buy the business. So, it's not operating in any other form. My current fav for tire lettering is waterslide decals by Powerslide available through the owner, Mike's Decals. The only problem there is a lack of variety. For 1:25th, they have Goodyear Eagle, BF Goodrich Radial T/A, and 60's Goodyear and Firestone in white. They have others, but they're mostly for detailing race cars (Goodyears are in yellow). Here's a link to their page... http://www.mikesdecals.com/index.php?manufacturers_id=5&sort=3a&filter_id=6

Try MegaHobby - I bought a 4oz bottle of it there years ago... They obviously had taken it out of a full bottle, but that's OK - it still works... but I absolutely will not use it as a finish on my cars. I have found both Testors and Tamiya's high-gloss lacquers to be just my ticket!

Yes, that makes sense... However, if they sell out at the show, they won't make more just for inventory...

Well, that could be... but why even bother... who wouldn't know its a 61 "model year"... what else is there?