fseva

I searched but could not find any reviews on this kit... I'm looking for a '32 street rod with a chopped top, that I could use with my Revell 32 Ltd Edition. I haven't had any success with Jimmy Flintstone bodies - I tried 2 of them, and they both ended up in the garbage - the last one was all complete on the outside when I realized that the interior of my kit would not fit without major surgery - after doing my best to modify the interior, I gave up when I still couldn't get it to fit...

Who could ever "criticise" this one, Steve! It's so good it takes my breath away!

Richard, I was wondering if this is gold BMF, or if it's just the lighting? BTW, beautiful work!

Dominik - I think it was your photo that got me interested in building this one!

I appreciate the offer, Snake, but if you feel stressed-out about this thread, I would prefer if you would just ignore it and go do something you prefer doing. I'm here to ask questions and get answers - I've had it up to my eyeballs with everyone telling me where to go to get the answers - as if they were too busy doing REALLY IMPORTANT things, to be bothered by my incessant questions. So, don't take offense now - I'm telling you for your own good - don't beat that drum!

Yeah, you just couldn't help yourself, hey Rob? Had to get in one last snide comment - I'll bet you were a bully in school, too! BTW -, nobody asked specifically for YOUR opinion, Rob - get off your high horse and learn to live quietly, like the rest of us peasants!

Gee, if I had that guy so readily available, I'd ask him for a 1oz bottle - then, I'd go home and add 3oz of lacquer thinner and airbrush like crazy!

My fault... I had forgotten that the concept of this list is not necessarily "new tools", but rather if they came from the era were good/modern tools were abundant! BTW, since apologies are usually ignored by some of the forum's members, when they just have to get in a hurtful comment, that's as much as I'm saying. And for your information, I WAS NOT THE ONLY ONE BRETT THOUGHT COULD USE THIS INFORMATION - IF I HAD BEEN, I DOUBT VERY MUCH IF HE WOULD HAVE OFFERED! SO THERE...

ref: 1966 Chevy Chevelle SS - Lindberg I thought I read that this was the first kit Round 2 released after buying Lindberg... if that's the case, it could hardly have been a "new tool"... right?

Bill, how does it feel knowing that they did what you asked?

Is this kit from the 60s or 80s, and if you built it, what did you think of it?

Curious to know if this kit is from the 60s or 90s, and if you've built it, what did you think of it?

Bravo! I would certainly be interested in this! However, it could include all types of cars (not just muscle cars), if you don't mind...

Ooooo... you were just itching to use that script. Well, I'll just wait for Steve to respond...

Looks even better, here! It's funny you should mention that you perhaps use less paint... I believe the instructions say that you should lay it on pretty heavy - to the point where there's "paint dust" visible! Then, after allowing some cure time, you go back and gently buff the powder away...

Steve, you know me only too well! Now, let's have your explanation of what should be used? (I'll betcha it's clear...)

Is a "shelf model" what we're all doing, Snake? What's the difference between a... non-shelf model?

The '66 is a "modern tool?" Wow - glad you guys disagreed, because I've seen lots of these on eBay!

Very nice, Harry! Any tips to pass along on using SS?

Brett, I like the idea of going with a silver base, but not necessarily Alclad - it's too expensive, and now I have a supply of AK Extreme Chrome, which will make an excellent base for the SS (it doesn't do any better as a "chromer", but it is more durable - was able to apply Tamiya Wax, and buff it like crazy - only got a little bit off, and the most at the edges, where it was already super-thin). Would you believe I have done the angle thing for a couple years now, and I do know that certain spots seem to get it just right - like on the curved bumper end, where the spray doesn't reach too well if you're going back and forth over the breadth of the part. Just wish I could get that effect all the time... however, it would still not be "kit chrome".

This is a related thread, and I'd like to hear everyone's opinion that has been following this thread... How important is the black before the chrome? Is it an homage to the way it is supposed to be applied on the INSIDE of lexan RC bodies, AFTER applying the chrome? If it's more important than that, what does it accomplish?

I like it, too... Did you apply the SS directly over the raw highly polished spoon as it came from the box? You can buy it at Amazon... I'm sure they'd ship to Canada, or they may have an outlet there...

I'm really interested to know how important the clear and polishing is - have you tried SS over Alclad without the clear/polishing? What percentage of improvement would you say it has?

I'm not sure what you mean by 2K Clearcoat... I don't think it's available in the states... Would any lacquer clear work the same way, or have you only tried it with the 2K Clear? After you're completely done, does it withstand handling any better than the way Spaz Stix recommends?

I'm sorry but some of this stuff doesn't look much like chrome to me - especially the dome surround... looks like gray paint with a little metal in it...